Among Ancient Ruins: Hovenweep & Canyons Of The Ancients National Monuments

In mid-September, we spent a couple of days immersed in the ancient Puebloan ruins at Hovenweep National Monument and Canyons of the Ancients National Monuments. These spectacular ruins are located off the beaten path on the border of southeastern Utah and southwestern Colorado.

We hiked trails to almost every ruin in the area, visited the Anasazi Cultural Center, and camped at Hovenweep for two nights in a beautiful, remote, and peaceful campground.

More Than Just A Pile Of Rubble

You might think, “Seen one ruin, seen them all.” In truth, they all really are just a pile of rubble. But there’s something compelling about walking among the ruins. Spend a little time there, and you begin to imagine life as it was a thousand years ago.

Villages were filled with hundreds of people going about their daily lives in a desert environment that was brutally cold in winter, equally hot in summer, and with little water. Despite the harsh environment, the inhabitants created a complex, elegant civilization infused by a nature-based spirituality.

Lives Of The Ancestral Puebloans

The ancestral Puebloans built dams and catch basins to utilize desert springs for growing corn, beans, and squash. They gathered wild plants; hunted rabbits, squirrels, and deer; and domesticated dogs and turkeys as pets. They wove clothing of vegetal fibers and animal hair; made robes of turkey feathers; fashioned sandals of yucca; and crafted jewelry of bone, shell, and turquoise. They plaited gorgeous baskets and created beautifully decorated pottery for carrying water, cooking, and storing food.

Women spent hours every day grinding corn on stone metates with stone manos. I tried it for five minutes at the Anasazi Heritage Center. It would take a very long time to grind enough cornmeal for a tortilla.

With no metal, all of their implements were made from stone, bone, and wood. It’s astounding that armed with such limited tools, the ancient peoples were able to build stone structures that have withstood the intensity of the desert climate for ten centuries. Although nearby Mesa Verde is better known, archeologists regard the masonry at Hovenweep as more refined. The stone structures are not only functional but also beautiful in their attention to detail.

The weather was wild the entire time we were in the area with gale-like winds, hit-and-run thunderstorms, and blazingly hot moments followed by freezing rains. This is a fascinating place. We’ll definitely return.