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 June 20, 2013

Painted Hills & More, John Day, OR

There are unexpected treasures in the Oregon high desert. Traveling along mostly deserted roads next to the winding John Day River, the scenery is a dramatic mix of mountains, river valleys, and the spectacular geologic formations of the John Day Fossil Beds.

The Painted Hills and Sheep Rock Unit (both in the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument) are exquisite. A perfectly timed brief mid-morning thundershower made the colors even more vibrant.

The Overlook Trail

The vibrant colors of the Painted Hills

Sheep Rock Canyon

A Unique Find in John Day

In the town of John Day, we visited Kam Wah Chung State Heritage Site, a perfectly preserved 19th-century Chinese apothecary. The building also housed a general store, cookhouse, bunkhouse, and bootleg liquor/gambling enterprise.

Kam Wah Chung

Two 18-year-old Chinese immigrants bought, lived, and did business for more than 50 years in the ramshackle structure. One became a doctor renowned for his healing abilities. The other was a businessman with a generous, community-minded spirit. It was a tough life, but they ended up earning the respect and affection of the community.

A bear paw on the apothecary counter. A desiccated orange and sticks of incense on the family altar. A box of Wheaties in the kitchen next to a bottle of soy sauce. It’s a fascinating place, a slice of exotic history in a barren, remote locale.

The apothecary

An altar, perfectly preserved

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Categories : Oregon, Travel
Tags : John Day, Kum Wa Chung, Painted Hills
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Comments

  1. Laurie says:
    June 20, 2013 at 10:13 am

    I love that part of Oregon, and your beautiful photos do it justice.

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    • Laurel says:
      June 20, 2013 at 9:41 pm

      Thanks, Laurie. The thunderstorm really enhanced the colors in the Painted Hills.

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  2. Penny Tremble says:
    June 20, 2013 at 11:46 am

    Beautiful pictures, not exactly sure where this is, maybe not far from Sisters. We have been to Sisters but missed this area.

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    • Laurel says:
      June 20, 2013 at 8:32 pm

      Penny, the Painted Hills are a couple of hours from Sisters. I didn’t realize how beautiful it was until we were in the midst of it.

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  3. Diana says:
    June 20, 2013 at 5:26 pm

    I used to skip school and go out to the Painted Hills…all year round…looks so sensual..Earth Mother flesh…oh did I mention I was a teacher in nearby Redmond…Enjoy and we’ll all enjoy vicariously!

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    • Laurel says:
      June 20, 2013 at 8:25 pm

      I need to hear more of those stories! Must have been interesting in winter.

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  4. Amanda says:
    June 20, 2013 at 5:38 pm

    Wow! What amazing colors! Looks like you really must have painted them.

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    • Laurel says:
      June 20, 2013 at 8:23 pm

      It is amazing — wish you could be here with us. xo

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Eric and Laurel

If you enjoy hiking, biking, kayaking, birding, art, music, quirky towns, good food, and good friends—you'll enjoy traveling with us. Join us as we explore the backroads of North America—we love company and comments!

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