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 November 19, 2013

Love Affair With Santa Fe

When I was 19, a college friend invited me to drive from Tallahassee to Santa Fe in her Volkswagen camper van. I didn’t go—(it took me a while to grow into my adventurous spirit)—and I regret to this day that I passed up that opportunity.

In the ensuing years, I’ve tried to remember the maxim, “When you look back over your life, you’ll regret more the things you didn’t do than the things you did.” A saying similar to this is (incorrectly) attributed to Mark Twain, among dozens of other people. What that tells me is that the desire to live without regrets is a universal yearning.

Every Visit To Santa Fe Is Unique

I did finally make it to Santa Fe—a decade later—and it was love at first sight. I loved everything about the city—the adobe architecture and chile pepper ristras; the cobalt skies and brilliant sunshine; the mix of Pueblo Indian-Spanish-and Cowboy cultures; the winding streets lined with world-class art galleries; and the unique New Mexican style of cooking laced with green chile.

Downtown Santa Fe

Raven sculpture in downtown Santa Fe

That was almost 30 years ago, and I’ve been back at least a dozen times, several times now with Eric. After so many visits to Santa Fe, you would think we would run out of things to do. Never. We settled in for a week and had a wonderful time, as always.

The International Museum of Folk Art

We always visit one of the museums on Museum Hill when we’re in Santa Fe. This time, we chose The International Museum of Folk Art. This is a wild collection of more than 135,000 trinkets (the world’s largest collection of folk art) and special exhibits (The History of Chocolate during our visit). Best of all, we happened to be there for their Dia de los Muertos celebration. The community turned out to participate in the Mexican tradition of remembering loved ones with beautiful dances, music, and crafts.

Dia de los Muertos at the Museum of International Folk Art
Dia de los Muertos at the Museum of International Folk Art
Dia de los Muertos offerings
Dia de los Muertos offerings
Sugar skull arts and crafts activity
Sugar skull arts and crafts activity
Beautiful candle dance
Beautiful candle dance
Hopi Kachinas
Hopi Kachinas
Amulets at the museum
Amulets at the museum

Canyon Road

This mile-long narrow street houses more than one hundred art galleries, silver shops, and restaurants with inviting courtyards. I spent the better part of two days exploring Canyon Road, and treated myself to lunch one day at The Compound (excellent Nicoise salad and a glass of New Mexico champagne). The only thing that would have made it better is if one of my girlfriends was along.

Kilim shop on Canyon Road
Kilim shop on Canyon Road
Glass panels on Canyon Road
Glass panels on Canyon Road
A gallery courtyard
A gallery courtyard
Bighorn sheep bronze and fall leaves
Bighorn sheep bronze and fall leaves
Bronze owl
Bronze owl
Tibetan shrine on Canyon Road
Tibetan shrine on Canyon Road
Bronze mother and child
Bronze mother and child
Lunch at The Compound on Canyon Road
Lunch at The Compound on Canyon Road

The Nedra Matteucci Gallery is a spectacular gallery and gardens located a few blocks from Canyon Road. It’s beautiful and peaceful, with exquisitely selected artwork and sculptures. Bonus: Kakawa Chocolate House is right across the street, for a demitasse of drinking chocolate, the perfect pick-me-up for hours of gallery browsing.

Nedra Matteucci Gallery
Nedra Matteucci Gallery
Bronze and aspen in the outdoor sculpture garden
Bronze and aspen in the outdoor sculpture garden
Kakawa chocolate cafe
Kakawa chocolate cafe
Mexican drinking chocolate
Mexican drinking chocolate

New Mexico History Museum

In downtown Santa Fe, we visited the New Mexico History Museum specifically to see the exhibit Cowboys: Real And Imagined (it’s headed for the Smithsonian). For two hours we were immersed in our country’s love affair with the cowboy mystique, with terrific exhibits of everything from branding irons to cookware to fancy saddles and dress. Eric had a cowboy outfit when he was growing up; so did I (didn’t everyone?).

Cruisin’ at the New Mexico Museum of History

Fancy saddles at the Cowboy Exhibit
Fancy saddles at the Cowboy Exhibit
Cowgirls in the Wild West
Cowgirls in the Wild West

New Mexican Cuisine

We went two days to the Farmer’s Market in the Rail Yard; it’s chile-roasting season, so we stocked up. Other memorable meals included a wonderful breakfast at Pasquale’s (potato cake with smoked trout, poached eggs, and green chile) and lunch at the Museum. There was a special menu to accompany the History of Chocolate exhibit; including poblano mole, corn custard, nopales salad (prickly pear cactus pads), and a dark chocolate torte. Yummy.

Hot stuff at the Santa Fe Farmers' Market
Hot stuff at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market
Delicious flatbreads
Delicious flatbreads
Pumpkins and chiles
Pumpkins and chiles
Music at the Farmers' Market
Music at the Farmers’ Market
Inside Pasquale's
Inside Pasquale’s
Potato cake, smoked trout, poached eggs, green Chile
Potato cake, smoked trout, poached eggs, green Chile

About The RV Park

Our favorite place to stay in Santa Fe is the Trailer Ranch RV Resort. It’s the closest in-town location and has a bus stop right outside the surrounding adobe wall. The bus system is excellent, and the drivers make sure that you get where you want to go. It was perfect for me because Eric doesn’t have the same stamina as I do for browsing art galleries. On two separate days, I hopped on the bus, went downtown, and had a great time wandering to my heart’s desire.

Adding to our enjoyment was meeting Karen and Riley, our next door neighbors at the RV park. They’re also from Oregon, travel full-time, and we had a great time sharing adventure stories over happy hour in the evenings. At one point, I asked Riley, “Isn’t it difficult to drive a really big motorhome? And then remembered that he had been the fire chief in Gresham.

Our site at Trailer Ranch RV Park

Entrance Trailer Ranch
Entrance Trailer Ranch
Karen and Riley
Karen and Riley

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Categories : New Mexico, Travel
Tags : Canyon Road, Dia de los Muertos, International Museum of Folk Art, Kakawa Chocolate House, Nedra Matteucci, Pasquales, Santa Fe
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Comments

  1. Diane and Dan'l says:
    November 20, 2013 at 8:23 pm

    We are loving your posts. Thank you for sharing your adventures with us.

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    • Laurel says:
      November 21, 2013 at 8:13 am

      We’re delighted to know that you’re enjoying the blog. ;-)

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  2. Kyle says:
    January 10, 2014 at 3:23 pm

    Looks like a stop for the Retro Daze some day. What a place to explore !. K

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    • Laurel says:
      January 12, 2014 at 7:37 am

      We need to caravan there together! Sure would be fun to explore with you.

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Eric and Laurel

If you enjoy hiking, biking, kayaking, birding, art, music, quirky towns, good food, and good friends—you'll enjoy traveling with us. Join us as we explore the backroads of North America—we love company and comments!

~Laurel & Eric

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