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 January 17, 2015

Winter On The Coast: Newport, OR

We wouldn’t deliberately choose to travel north in Oregon in the winter. But in our search for our new rig, we found ourselves journeying twice to Portland in the depths of December.

We rarely go directly from point A to point B (no fun in that, LOL). So on our initial scouting trip, we moseyed to Portland via the coastal route so that we could spend a few days in Newport, a small town and historic fishing port located halfway up the ruggedly beautiful Oregon coast.

Fun, Even In The Rain And Cold

Despite the gray skies blanketing the coast, the intermittent rain, and the chilly temperatures, we had a great time. We stayed in a lovely site at South Beach State Park. Within a few miles are two lighthouses, a beautiful coastline with a unique rocky beach, tidepools, an aquarium, a marine science center, a cool historic area, and excellent restaurants. There’s no lack of fun things to do in Newport, even when it’s rainy and cold.

The Oregon Coast Aquarium

It’s easy to spend several hours at this small but excellent aquarium wandering through the exhibits, including a glass walkway that takes you beneath the sea. The focus of the aquarium is on local mammals, sea life, and seabirds—most of the animals are rescues. The aquarium does a great job of education, with spacious outdoor exhibits for sea lions, seals, playful sea otters, and a wonderful aviary for sea birds that you don’t ordinarily have an opportunity to see up close. The puffins are especially curious, and will paddle right up to look you in the eye.

Click on photos for a larger image

The Oregon Coast Aquarium
The Oregon Coast Aquarium
Outdoor exhibits at the aquarium
Outdoor exhibits at the aquarium
Under the sea
Under the sea
Tidepool petting zoo
Tidepool petting zoo
Feeding time
Feeding time
Breakfast for a Pigeon Guillemot
Breakfast for a Pigeon Guillemot
Rhinoceros Auklet
Rhinoceros Auklet
Tufted Puffin in winter plumage
Tufted Puffin in winter plumage

Dancing sea nettles

Hatfield Marine Science Center

This very cool marine science center is definitely worth a visit. Part of Oregon State University, their focus is on sustainability, and as they say, “Hot topics in contemporary marine science research.” Great exhibits on how Oregon manages fisheries (Dungeness crab, salmon, and shrimp). They’re even working on raising tropical fish sustainably to stop the destruction of reefs. It’s inspiring to visit and makes me hopeful for our oceans and marine life.

Hatfield Marine Science Center
Hatfield Marine Science Center
Sustainably raised tropical fish
Sustainably raised tropical fish

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse

This is the only wooden Oregon lighthouse still standing. Constructed in 1871, it was decommissioned after only 3 years because it was built too far inland and ships couldn’t see the light. Oops. The lighthouse is fully furnished in period décor and offers a fascinating glimpse into the lifestyle of a light keeper. It looked pretty sweet, except for the fact that someone had to be on duty 24/7 to keep the light burning.

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse
Yaquina Bay Lighthouse
The light keeper's kitchen
The light keeper’s kitchen
The lightkeeper's bedroom
The lightkeeper’s bedroom
View from the lighthouse
View from the lighthouse

Yaquina Bay Bridge

There’s a lovely view of the iconic Yaquina Bay Bridge from the parking lot of the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. Constructed in 1934, it’s an interesting combination of Art Deco and Gothic architecture and is very picturesque. You really can’t take a bad photo of it. It’s the header photo in this post.

Yaquina Head Visitor Center

Located within Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, this excellent visitor center has fabulous displays on the cultural, natural, and lighthouse history of the area. Yaquina Head lighthouse (built in 1873 to replace Yaquina Bay lighthouse) was cocooned for painting while we were there, but we enjoyed miles of hiking trails on the headlands and stumbling over the rocks on Cobblestone Beach, one of the most unique beaches we’ve ever visited.

Yaquina Head Visitor Center
Yaquina Head Visitor Center
Beautiful exhibits in the visitor center
Beautiful exhibits in the visitor center
Replica of the Fresnel light
Replica of the Fresnel light
Lighthouse wrapped for painting
Lighthouse wrapped for painting

Cobblestone Beach

This absolutely stunning beach has tide pools; rocky offshore islands that provide refuge for seals, sea lions, and sea birds; and a great view of Yaquina Head lighthouse (albeit incognito while we were there). Over thousands of years, chunks of basalt have fallen from the hillside and been transformed by the surf into the smooth black round rocks known as cobbles that make up the beach. As the waves recede, the tumbling of the cobblestones makes a whooshing, crackling sound—hence the name “magic rocks.”

Cobblestone Beach
Cobblestone Beach
Harbor seal on the rocks
Harbor seal on the rocks
On Cobblestone Beach
On Cobblestone Beach
Treasures in the tide pools
Treasures in the tide pools

Bay Street Pier

The reason to visit the pier is to have lunch or dinner at Saffron Salmon, a charming little restaurant overlooking Yaquina Bay. Get a table by the window and watch the crab boats coming and going beneath Yaquina Bay Bridge. The food is delicious and local—we loved our mixed seafood platters, Oregon coast style: Dungeness crab cakes, grilled wild salmon, and clam chowder.

Strolling the Bay Street Pier

Lunch at Saffron Salmon
Lunch at Saffron Salmon
View from the restaurant
View from the restaurant

Nye Beach

This picturesque historic district of Newport has attracted writers, artists, and scholars since the late 1800s. We paid a visit to the Sylvia Beach Hotel, an early 1900s hotel where each room is dedicated to an author and decorated accordingly. They have an interesting restaurant (Table of Contents) where we intended to dine, but they were closed while we were there. We meandered down the street to Zach’s Bistro, where we enjoyed delicious paella in front of the fireplace for a perfect cozy evening after a chilly day of exploring.

Quaint Nye Beach
Quaint Nye Beach
Tea shop in Nye Beach
Tea shop in Nye Beach
Art gallery on the beach
Art gallery on the beach
The famous Sylvia Beach Hotel
The famous Sylvia Beach Hotel
Steinbeck room in the hotel
Steinbeck room in the hotel
:Paella at Zach's Bistro
:Paella at Zach’s Bistro

Where To Stay

If we didn’t have our trailer, I’d stay at the Sylvia Beach Hotel (the Mark Twain room looked especially appealing with a view of the beach). But since we have our home on wheels, we stayed at South Beach State Park. Located just south of the Yaquina Bay bridge, the park has spacious wooded sites, water/electric hookups, good Verizon coverage, and great walking/biking trails directly from the campground. If you plan to go in summer, book early. If you’re crazy enough to go in the winter, you’ll have your pick of sites, no reservations required.

South Beach State Park

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Categories : Oregon, Travel
Tags : Cobblestone Beach, Hatfield Marine Science Center, Nye Beach, Oregon Coast Aquarium, Saffron Salmon, South Beach State Park, Sylvia Beach Hotel, Yaquina Bay Bridge, Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, Yaquina Head Visitor Center, Zach's Bistro
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Comments

  1. Bettina Arrigoni says:
    January 17, 2015 at 7:34 pm

    We love Newport and specifically South Beach Campground. We were camping there in our Vanagon I was inspired to pursue a nomadic life on the road:)

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 17, 2015 at 10:24 pm

      Bettina, how wonderful to have such great memories! We loved Newport, too, and would like to return in the summer or fall.

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  2. amanda says:
    January 17, 2015 at 7:54 pm

    Winter’s not so bad in the northwest, eh?! I love the picture of the neon window sign announcing “tea party”! Can I download it and use it for a project? :)

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 17, 2015 at 10:23 pm

      Absolutely! I agree, winter’s not so bad in the northwest! I’d be happy for you to use the photo. xoxo

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  3. Sherry says:
    January 18, 2015 at 6:53 am

    What a great write up of all the things to do in that area. Looks like a must see from your gorgeous pictures. That seafood platter sounds perfect to me, crab, salmon, clam chowder. YUM!!! I don’t usually do aquariums just like I don’t do zoos but I may make an exception here since it could be the only way I’ll ever see puffins. Your posts on all these spots in the PNW have made me feel I’d have to spend a year there in order to see all the fantastic places.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 8:03 am

      I’m glad you enjoyed the tour, Sherry. I’m with you re: zoos and aquariums, but I do feel good about the facilities that place a primary emphasis on rehabilitation/conservation/environmental education. You definitely need at least a year for the Pacific Northwest!

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  4. Colette says:
    January 18, 2015 at 6:54 am

    I love winters on the Oregon Coast! We spent a long weekend in Newport a couple of Decembers ago. We had the aquarium and the Yaquina Head Visitor Center mostly to ourselves.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 7:57 am

      We agree, Colette — if you don’t expect sunshine and warmth, winters on the Oregon coast are gorgeous and peaceful!

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  5. Jodee Gravel says:
    January 18, 2015 at 7:28 am

    Newport has been on our list for a while, but I’m really wishing we were there now! So many wonderful places to see and experience. Your photos are beautiful, and you captured so many really fun details. I love the sculpture watching the whales (or the other way around perhaps).

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 8:00 am

      Thank you, Jodee. We were delighted with how much unique beauty is there, and all within close distance of the state park. You’ll love it!

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  6. Metamorphosis Lisa says:
    January 18, 2015 at 8:47 am

    Love how uncrowded every place looks! I want to visit the OR coast in the off season some time.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 4:32 pm

      Lisa, it’s totally worth visiting in the winter — there’s actually often quite a bit of sun along with no crowds. Since you have to wear fleece on the Oregon coast most of the year anyway, might as well go off season!

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  7. Brenda Hammers says:
    January 18, 2015 at 2:06 pm

    It has been ages since we were in Newport. Guess we’ll have to head there too. The snow is all gone again. Chipmunks are not hibernating. Is summer on it’s way already? If so we’ll dig out the Casita and head out. As usual I love your photos. Does Eric know that his “backside” is his most photographed feature? LOL! Have fun you two.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 4:34 pm

      Brenda, hope you’re making progress on your projects so you can get out in your Casita. Haha, I’m usually lagging behind taking photos and can’t always get Eric to turn around. That’s why so many butt shots!

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  8. Mona Liza says:
    January 18, 2015 at 6:50 pm

    Newport was one town that we just skipped over when we were there. Looks like we have a new town to explore when we get back there.But I don’t think we will be there in winter :)

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 7:24 pm

      ML, strangely enough, I think it’s probably warmer than where you’ve been on the Texas coast this winter. No matter what time of year you visit, I think you’ll enjoy Newport. :-)

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  9. Pam Wright says:
    January 18, 2015 at 9:53 pm

    Despite the grey sky, looks like a wonderful time. Any aquarium is a fun time but the tide pools are the best. I love those round pebbles on the beach. How neat that they are all the same stone! All that fresh seafood sounds so good right now:)

    New trailer photos!!??

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 18, 2015 at 10:17 pm

      Newport was really fun, Pam, even with the grey skies. And yes, trailer photos coming soon! Really soon! :-)

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  10. Sheila says:
    January 28, 2015 at 5:25 pm

    Beautiful photo of the jellyfish. I’ve been grieving over the decimation of the starfish on the West Coast due to some sort of disease. But today, 1/28/15, I saw two, and yesterday Bruce saw one, down at Odlin Park. I so appreciate you sharing your experiences with the tidal creatures.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      January 29, 2015 at 10:24 pm

      Sheila, we were feeling really disturbed about the die-off of the sea stars, but in talking to several experts, have been told that they are starting to make a comeback from the virus that was afflicting so many of them. I hope when we return to Lopez this summer that we’ll again see many in our kayaking adventures.

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Eric and Laurel

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