Route 66 is tenacious. Almost 90 years after its creation and three decades after it was declared obsolete, the old road lives on in the collective sentiment as a symbol of adventure, freedom, and opportunity.
A Broken-Down Dream
For the most part, Route 66 is a broken-down dream, a piecemeal byway lined with fleabag motels, dusty storefronts, seedy bars, out-of-service gas stations, and half-lit flickering neon signs. Nonetheless, every time we near a section of the Mother Road we’re drawn in, and I begin to hum, “If you ever plan to motor West, Travel my way take the highway that’s the best, Get your kicks on Route 66….”.
Last to fall and proud of it
Williams, Arizona: The Last Holdout on Route 66
In late October, our route took us through Williams, Arizona, a small town that proudly proclaims the distinction of being the last holdout on Route 66 bypassed by an interstate. Left to wither on the vine, just like every small town along the route when four-lane divided highways left them in the dust, much of the downtown has seen better days.
But there’s a revival going on, and unlike many other towns that went belly-up along the venerable old route, Williams appears to be thriving: 1950’s era motor courts, mom & pop cafes, scruffy bars, and Indian curio shops share the street with a mix of new businesses (most with a retro twist). And of course, there are a plethora of shops over-stuffed with Route 66 memorabilia and souvenirs. It doesn’t hurt that Williams is also the gateway to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, but many people visit simply for the nostalgia of a simpler time—wishful thinking though that may be.
We had lunch at the attractive Kicks on Route 66, including a flight of local beers. Had we known that the sketchy looking 1912 Sultana Bar was written up in Gourmet Magazine as one of the best bars in America (seriously?) we would have ventured in. If you’re into Route 66 memorabilia, you’ll love Williams. You’ll find everything to decorate your home, your vehicle, and yourself—from tea towels to license plates to stick-on tattoos—emblazoned with the beloved Route 66 insignia.
About The Campgrounds
We found two convenient places to stay along I-40, which also happens to be old Route 66. In Needles, California, Fender’s River Road Resort is a fine little park on the banks of the Colorado River. For the very reasonable price of $14 a night (with Passport America), we had full hookups, laundry, and good Verizon coverage. We especially appreciated the use of a lovely deck overlooking the river, where we enjoyed G & T’s and unwound after our almost 300-mile drive from Lone Pine.
Fender’s RV Park in Needles
Another 175 miles the next day brought us to Williams and the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park. Although it’s basically a big parking lot, it’s a very nice parking lot and is conveniently located just two blocks from downtown Williams and the historic district. It’s a bargain at $23 (with Passport America) and includes full hookups, laundry, use of the amenities at the nearby hotel, and good Verizon coverage.
Grand Canyon Railway RV Park
You are such! A great writer! and you document your brilliant hilarious awarenesses Beautifully. Thanks for sharing your true gifts with us. Satisfying!
Thanks, Laurie. :-) I always love hearing from you — we definitely share the same slightly quirky view of life. So much fun reconnecting with you while we were in Ashland!
Thanks for the memories! I first drove Route 66 in 1967 – I was moving from the east coast for a brief (3month) stay in the Bay Area. Again in 1970, moving from FL to Monterey. On both trips, I followed the common wisdom of the day, which was to day-sleep in a motel, and drive the desert at night. Many drivers had water bags strapped over their hoods to cool the air entering the car radiators. Your words (as always) capture the spirit of the places you have visited and make me want to go there. BTW, to prove that point, Viki and I have reservations at Lopez next July. Thanks again!
Those are great memories, Dick. Now that you mention it, I remember my dad strapping a canvas water bag onto our car on a road trip crossing the desert in the early 60’s. Now I know why! We’re looking forward to seeing you guys on Lopez this summer!
You even make Needles look good :-) Wonderful description of Route 66 too. Love that little orange Bronco and all the fun, bright colors in Williams. I’m sure we would have by-passed the “gourmet” bar in favor of the brewery as well – but now we know to give it a try!!
Jodee, we’ll definitely try the Sultana next time we’re passing through Williams! The RV park in Needles was a terrific stopover.
fleabag motels, seedy bars, flickering neon signs….. I love it!
Your words truly captured the flavor of those sad places, but your pictures painted a slightly more quirky picture! Thanks for showing this little town.
Sue
Sue, it was worth the stop — quirky albeit slightly seedy, and fun to see a slice of Route 66 alive and well.
Loved reading this, Laurel. Your photos really captured the quirky complexity of that old route. When we went to Tucumcari, and I wrote about it on my blog, some of my observations were not taken well. I had the worst firestorm of stuff hit me when someone who had a business in Tucumcari took exception to my thoughts and photos. Crazy stuff, but oh yes, that Mother Road is Sacred!
I’m glad you enjoyed the post, Sue. I’m hoping that I didn’t offend anyone, but I believe in telling it like it is. I appreciate that you write the truth about your observations. And yes, the Mother Road is sacred! :-)
Sue, I also wrote my truth about what I saw in poor Tucumcari. I did love where we stayed but the town…well, thankfully I didn’t get a firestorm. Obviously people read your blog. :-)
Had NO idea the Sultana Bar was written up as best bar in US. We totally missed that one when we were there! Another great place to park is the Forest Service campground just a few miles from town (Kaibab Lake). No hookups, but gorgeous, green spot.
Nina
Haha, yeah, the Sultana looks like a “must do” next time we’re in the area! We would have stayed in the Forest Service campground, but it was closed when we were there. As it was, we were happy to discover the Railroad RV Park — it was great to be walking distance to all of the attractions of downtown Williams/Route 66.
What fun! David thinks that’s a 1950 Ford in Pete’s museum. He was driving one when I first met him and has a real soft spot for it and all antique cars. Well antique anything, towns, women. He’d have loved to visit Williams. You certainly do an amazing job of finding very nice and inexpensive places to stay on the fly.
Sherry, that’s a great memory of meeting David in his 1950 Ford! He would probably really enjoy browsing the memorabilia in Williams.
What a neat town! I love all the nostalgia! I had to laugh as I read about the campground being just a big parking lot, but it was a nice parking lot:) Too funny!
Seeing the shop with the guns welcome sign sounds like a good idea now. John and I were talking about the recent shootings. Just imagine if several people had carry permits at the office. Maybe they could have stopped the gunman/woman and prevented some of the deaths. Something to think about.
Pam, we enjoyed our brief visit to Williams — if you pass through there, I think you would like the campground. It has all the amenities and more!
I had included the sign about “Guns welcome, good marksmanship appreciated” as a joke, but it didn’t seem funny in light of the recent shootings, so I removed it from the slideshow. Another tragic situation, with no easy answer.
This was so well written Laurel and like a blast from the past for me. It has been years since we traveled this part of AZ. We really need to do some further exploring.
Thanks, LuAnn — I’m glad you enjoyed it. Let’s go to the Sultana together. ;-)
Totally Cool!
I’m glad you liked it, Brenda. Put it on your list. :-)
Wow, that town looks cool and quirky :)
One day we should get our kitsch on route 66 now that you have shared it with us.
ML, it’s worth driving through and strolling down the main street. :-)