But darn it, the weather just won’t cooperate. Two years ago we spent three weeks in the Keys in early November. It was unseasonably hot, humid, and the no-see-ums were relentless. High winds churned the seas, making it too choppy and murky for snorkeling. In 21 days, we spent one hour snorkeling—it was a less than ideal day, and we merely snorkeled in the mangroves—but it was that or nothing. I assured Eric that this was not typical weather for the Keys. And so I vowed we would try again, and reserved the first two weeks of December in our favorite waterfront site at Curry Hammock State Park.
So Much Beauty, And Terrible Weather
Our site was idyllic, tucked into the mangroves and overlooking the ocean. We strolled on the beach in the early morning and at sunset, enjoying the antics of the wading birds and shorebirds. We launched our kayak just steps from our campsite, paddling out into the beautiful shallow aquamarine waters. Other days, we navigated trails through mangrove tunnels, sharing the dense thickets with Yellow-crowned Night Herons and Snowy Egrets. It was gorgeous—almost paradise—except for the heat, humidity, bugs, winds, and thunderstorms.
Path to the beach from our campsite at Curry Hammock State Park
Apparently, the Keys were in the grip of a weather pattern that would not relent. “This is unusual,” everyone kept saying. (Not for us, apparently.) We dodged the rainstorms, or got soaked while biking or walking on the beach. (Who cares? It’s a warm, tropical rain!) When the wind wasn’t too ferocious, we kayaked. I think we managed to kayak every paddle-able waterway in the middle Keys. If we weren’t in or on the water, we were in the trailer with the A/C on, because we were suffering mightily from the heat and humidity. (In our defense, so were the natives.)
Fun Times With Family And Friends
And we spent lots of time in the company of family and friends, which made everything better. Fellow travelers and bloggers Sherry and David (In The Direction of Our Dreams) were camped a couple of sites down from us, and we had a great time catching up with them after our last meet-up in Florida two years ago. We kayaked together, took a boat trip out to Lignumvitae Key for a holiday celebration, walked on the beach, and enjoyed being neighbors in our tropical locale.
Kayaking with Sherry and David
Holiday adventure with David and Sherry
We also spent many delightful days and evenings with Rick and Karren, my aunt and uncle who have called the Keys home for many years. Sitting on their lovely screened patio overlooking the water while sipping gin and tonics or floating in their pool provided a welcome respite from the heat. We biked with them on No Name Key (and had a brew at the quirky little No Name Pub); enjoyed several delicious seafood meals together (including an evening of Florida lobster at their beautiful home); and went boating when the weather cooperated, including a cruise through Toilet Seat Cut.
A Birthday Snorkel Trip
We tried for two weeks to find a day to go snorkeling. But every time we made plans, the winds picked up and the seas sported white caps. But finally—finally!—a morning dawned when the sun was shining, the seas were calm, and no storms loomed on the horizon. By chance, it also happened to be my birthday. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect gift. Rick fired up the boat, and we sped out to Lighthouse Reef, one of the premier snorkeling locations in the Keys. Paddling around the reef, scores of colorful tropical fish weaving around us in the beautiful clear waters—it was just as magical as I remembered. I want to go back. But I think we’ll try February next time.
A beautiful day for snorkeling
Alligator Reef Lighthouse
A Queen Conch (returned to the ocean after admiring it)
About The Campground:
Curry Hammock is our favorite Florida State Park campground in the Keys. It’s small, the sites are spacious and private, and there’s terrific beach and kayaking access. In our opinion, the best sites are on the waterfront. It’s not cheap, at $38.50 per night (water and electric only)—but it’s a bargain when you consider that anything else in the Keys goes for around $100 and up per night in season. It is absurdly difficult to get campsite reservations in the Keys, and the competition is fierce. Persistence and luck seem to play a big part in reserving a spot in paradise. Being good has nothing to do with it.
Beautiful waterfront site at Curry Hammock State Park
Sunset at Curry Hammock
Aw…how great it is to see you in almost paradise.
You look so happy despite the winds and the wiles, and as always you are an impeccable story teller!
Thanks, Cynthia — we’re looking forward to the day when you guys are ready for a tropical road trip! :-)
You would never guess that your weather was unpleasant at times from the photos. You certainly showed the beauty of the Keys:) I guess we lucked out with our visit four years ago. We were in Key West for ten days at the beginning of Dec and it was perfect every day. Give it one more try:)
We’ll definitely try again, Pam. We had a great time in the Keys, despite the weather challenges. We’re already planning to return — but I think we’ll try for January or February next time.
Looks pretty fabulous despite the poor snorkeling conditions. I adore snorkeling too!
It was fabulous, Lisa. We want to return when we can do a lot more snorkeling — we were sure happy with our one perfect day!
We were also exploring mangrove swamps in Puerto Rico….had a near perfect snorkeling experience and most delightful ….a swim in bioluminescent black waters under a million stars! Life truly is amazing when you get out there and live it. Again thank you both for trailblazing and leaving the bloggy bread crumb trail for the rest of us! Much love till our paths cross this summer. “Almost paradise …except”
.
Wow, swimming in bioluminescent waters under the stars — that sounds truly magical! You are an artist in every way, Diana. Lopez again this summer? oxoxo
We were lucky during our time in the Keys in 2014 as well, but didn’t manage any snorkeling either. Loved watching you two and Sherry and David having fun together via Sherry’s blog. Makes me really miss hanging out in Florida. But the bugs, rain, wind, and general junk would be disappointing for sure. Even two months wasn’t long enough this year it seems, to find the good stuff. Your story made it sound absolutely wonderful, though, in spite of it all.
Sue, we had a wonderful time in the Keys, and just looked for our windows of opportunity — as you know, the tropical weather changes constantly! We found plenty of time for kayaking and other adventures. And it was definitely fun having Sherry and David as our neighbors.
Another perfect post! You covered beautifully in one post what it took me at least a half dozen or more to cover. Fantastic photographs. In two months we didn’t have one time that wasn’t turbid. But we had a wonderful time being there with you two anyway. You actually improved things a great deal for us. Thanks and good luck with those February reservations!
Thanks, Sherry — I’m glad you enjoyed the photos! We feel lucky that we found one perfect day for snorkeling — and are happy that we managed so many good days for kayaking. It was fun having you right down the street!
I’ve been tossing up whether to do a south east trip between Oct to Dec or Jan to Mar, it sounds like it could be hit or miss for either period of time. For us it’s the animals that disappear when we arrive, no sorry no whales this year as the water’s too warm,or no bears this year as the salmon run is too good and they don’t need to come down to the rivers, agggh, so frustrating.It was always a great year – last year!
Haha, yeah it does seem that way! (We’ve heard “You should have been here last week/last month/last year/just 15 minutes ago….”) If you’re thinking of south Florida, I’d suggest January to March. October to December, you’ll enjoy north Florida. But remember that hurricane season lasts until sometime in November!
Too funny Laurel. It sure looks great in the pictures. Ann
Ann, it really was wonderful, bugs and heat and storms and all. I tend to focus on the good stuff. :-) So happy to hear from you, my dear friend!
Ah, your sunset and bird photos have me longing to be back along the Gulf Coast…. beautiful. Sounds like a lovely time even though the weather was playing tricks on you. The no-see-ums dined well on my hubby’s ankles while we were in Texas.
I agree, Ingrid — the Gulf Coast is a very special place. We’ve enjoyed fabulous birding the entire winter, just as you did in Texas. And fortunately, the no-see-ums were only bad in the Keys. Those things are awful.
Just love your writing Laurel especially describing the almost perfect stay in the Keys. Any blog with birds on them makes my day and you just did with those feathered friends in Florida. We were glad we had good weather when we were there but the nooseeums were my enemy.
ML, I remember your experience with the no-see-ums! Fortunately we had enough wind to blow most of the bugs away. :-) The birds were wonderful, as you know. Glad you enjoyed seeing them again.
I love that you focus on the “good stuff”, it’s the only way to be happy!
I have to admit, I do miss that beautiful blue water and lovely warm evenings but I’m having such a good time out here in the rocks! I don’t, however, miss those bugs! We had a spectacular site, complete with dock, at Chokoloskee and we absolutely couldn’t leave Beluga. Poking your nose outside the door risked being carried away. We had to take dogs out daily and as a result I was one large red itchy crabby lump! Not a pretty sight, just ask Dave! Cut our stay short and got out of there! Too bad…
Yes, focusing on the good stuff makes me happy, Sue! And as you well know, there’s plenty of good stuff to be found in our traveling lives. I have to say, your experience at Chokoloskee sounds awful — it’s good to know when to call it quits. I think we’ll have much better luck trying the Keys January through March — although that’s when everyone else wants to be there, too.
Love all your bird shots Laurel, and those sunsets make me long to get back to the Gulf. Glad you finally got some good weather. Safe travels!
LuAnn, we’re loving our winter on the Florida Gulf Coast. Perhaps you and Terry will consider joining us next year? :-)
The Keys are so beautiful – even if it is hot, humid, buggy, and windy! And what a picture you paint with your intro….so very nice.
Loretta, the Keys truly are so beautiful and unique — we’ll definitely return.