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 March 28, 2016

Kayaking With Manatees

“There’s one!” I call out to Eric. An enormous grey blob rises slowly to the surface of the crystal clear river, exhales loudly, and sinks again to the sandy bottom. It’s a West Indian manatee, a roly-poly aquatic mammal that seeks the warmth of Florida springs in the winter.

We’re kayaking the Ichetucknee River in northwest Florida. It’s one of our favorite spring-fed river kayak trips, in part because we usually have the opportunity to commune with a manatee or two. And in the winter or early spring, there are few other people around. We wait patiently, and the gentle giant decides to investigate our presence. It floats to the surface, exhales again, and swims lazily toward us.

Early spring on the Ichetucknee River

The Endearing Manatee

The favorite manatee hangout spot

With an overstuffed sausage of a body, a flat paddle-shaped tail for propulsion and small front flippers for steering, the manatee is an engagingly awkward creature. The wrinkly face and the wide, whiskered snout merely add to its appeal.

Swimming over to investigate us

Closely related to elephants (the family resemblance is easy to see), manatees are enormous creatures. The average Florida manatee is about 10-feet long and weighs around 1200 pounds. One could flip our kayak in a heartbeat. But these docile herbivores seem incapable of doing harm. By nature, they’re curious—even friendly.

The manatee sidles up to our kayak and floats beside us for a bit. It swims beneath our kayak a couple of times and then moves back to its shallow turquoise pool, where it performs a series of leisurely rollovers before sinking back to the bottom and resting.

Hanging out with the manatee

Coming up for air

Rolling over

Tips For Kayaking On The Ichetucknee

Even if we didn’t see manatees, we would still love kayaking the Ichetucknee River. It’s a beautiful three-mile paddle from the headspring to the southernmost takeout point. Our favorite way to kayak the river is a six-mile round trip paddle. If you do this, put in at the south end so that you have the current helping you on the way back downstream. If you don’t have your own kayak, there are several good outfitters in the area, including a convenient and excellent park concessionaire.

A perfect day on the Ichetucknee River

Great Egret in breeding plumage
Great Egret in breeding plumage
Turtle conga line
Turtle conga line

Where We Stayed

Because Ichetucknee Springs State Park is a day-use park only, we stay at nearby O’Leno State Park, just 15 miles down the road.

Biking the trails at O’Leno State Park

Rainy day hike at the park

Dogwood blossoms
Dogwood blossoms
Tufted Titmouse
Tufted Titmouse
Red-headed Woodpecker
Red-headed Woodpecker

Situated on the banks of the picturesque Santa Fe River, the park offers thirteen miles of hiking and biking trails that we put to good use. There’s always something fun going on at the park. While we were there this time, we enjoyed a wonderful presentation on owls given by volunteers from a local wildlife rehab facility and a free afternoon bluegrass concert.

Barred Owl
Barred Owl
Bluegrass music in the park
Bluegrass music in the park
Bluegrass musicians
Bluegrass musicians

There are two loops in the campground; we much prefer the Magnolia Loop. The sites are more spacious and level, the road has fewer potholes, and it’s walking distance to the river and the start of the hiking trails. The sites have water and electric hookups and Verizon coverage is decent.

Next Up: Treasures Of The Forgotten Coast

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Categories : Florida, Travel
Tags : Ichetucknee River, Ichetucknee Springs State Park, kayaking with manatee, O'Leno State Park
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Comments

  1. Pam Wright says:
    March 28, 2016 at 7:41 pm

    Kayaking with the manatee is so special. They are so cute as they swim around you and under the kayak. We’ve only kayaked with them once in Ft Myers at the Manatee Park. Your water was so clear! What a beautiful day. Love the congo line of turtles and that red headed woodpecker:)

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 6:31 am

      Pam, the clear water on the Ichetucknee River definitely makes it easier to see the manatees. There are zillions of turtles on the river — probably because there are no alligators!

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  2. Sue Malone says:
    March 28, 2016 at 9:19 pm

    That is an incredible photo of the manatee! It is so hard to get photos of them with all the reflections. I swore I was going to buy a polarizing lens so I could see through the water. We never managed this spring run, but it is big on the list.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 6:35 am

      Sue, you two would love the Ichetucknee. It’s still one of our favorites, even with all of the other kayaking we’ve done in Florida. Wish we could have gotten a close-up of the manatee’s sweet face, but we didn’t have the opportunity. Maybe next time!

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  3. Julie says:
    March 29, 2016 at 2:00 am

    Incredible photography. We were waiting for the red headed woodpecker pic. Your website is amazing… easy to navigate and reminders of the path we have been. We also love Florida St. Parks. Lousiana parks have free laundry if you need….

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 6:24 am

      Thanks for your nice comment, Julie. Knowing that the Red-headed Woodpeckers are in trouble because of habitat destruction, it’s heartening to know that they have places like O’Leno State Park to call home. Hope we can meet up with you for some birding adventures on the road!

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  4. Metamorphosis Lisa says:
    March 29, 2016 at 6:38 am

    Manatees are so intriguing! Such gentle giants. This is exactly the type of stay that could lure us to FL some day…

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 7:43 am

      Lisa, there are so many wild natural places in Florida. I think you and Hans would enjoy the diversity of adventures here.

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  5. Pam (aka Desert Rat) says:
    March 29, 2016 at 6:50 am

    We went to Florida in search of manatee and stayed at O’Leno for a night. Wish we had explored just a bit more. They were right there! Oh well, we’ll just have to go back. Love your pictures.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 7:40 am

      Pam, we see one or two manatee every time we kayak the Ichetucknee (in the winter or early spring, of course). Not large numbers, but the benefit is that we have close encounters with them and there are only a few other people on the river that time of year. Glad you enjoyed the pics. :-)

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  6. Sue says:
    March 29, 2016 at 8:10 am

    Oh manatees! We love them too, although I don’t know how you can ever “meet” one and not fall in love.

    Our first introduction was in Kelly Springs Park, near where my mom camped years ago. Our son, Jesse, was so enchanted that he sponsored one, named Howie, with his own hard earned money (he was 5). As a result he received a stuffed manatee that went everywhere with us. Great memories.

    Those beautiful, crystal clear springs are one of the things I enjoy most about Florida, thanks for reminding me.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 9:02 am

      What a sweet, sweet story! I agree, Sue — the beautiful springs are some of our favorite things about Florida. And the birds. Would be fun to kayak together.

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  7. Jane says:
    March 29, 2016 at 8:47 am

    the springs look gorgeous, can you see the manatees from the walking trails or do you need to be on the water? Nice that most of the snowbirds have gone home but does that mean the weather is more humid?

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 9:06 am

      The weather has been beautiful, Jane. There are humid days at any time of year in Florida, but not generally too many until sometime in April. On the Ichetucknee you might be able to see a manatee pass by from one of the boardwalks, but your best bet is by kayak. There are other places in Florida where you can see lots of manatees congregating around springs (Blue Spring, for example). We just love the experience of being in wild solitude and sharing peaceful moments with a manatee.

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  8. Josephine says:
    March 29, 2016 at 8:47 am

    Your photos are so clear I feel like I can touch the gentle giants from here. The birds are stunning – what a beautiful place to float and paddle. Love the turtle conga line!!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 9:09 am

      Jodee, you and Bill would really enjoy seeing the manatees. I hope you’re putting Florida on your long list of places to visit.
      :-)

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  9. MonaLiza says:
    March 29, 2016 at 9:10 am

    The first shot of the manatee on a clear water is outstanding! Yes, kayaking with manatees is so special and I felt it when they swim next to you or under you, so gentle.
    I leave it to you to capture those darling birds :) they are so cute!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 10:25 am

      ML, I remember when you did the boat ride at Wakulla Springs and had the manatee swim next to you. :-) Just like you, we love all of the campground birds.

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  10. Sherry says:
    March 29, 2016 at 6:28 pm

    What fabulous manatee pictures and your birds are so rich and clear. They could fly right off my screen. Really perfect description of the manatee. The gentle giants. Why don’t boaters put cages on their propellers?? We too love both O’Leno and Ichetucknee and have been lucky enough to see the manatee as well. You have to drag me away. I love watching them do nothing. Seems to me you could barter a campsite for a week or two for music. Did you ask?

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 29, 2016 at 8:11 pm

      Sherry, if I had someone to play music with me, I would ask. :-) I love that the Florida State Parks do so much for visitors. I agree with you about the cages for the propellers to protect the manatee. It should be a law.

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  11. Debbie says:
    March 29, 2016 at 9:06 pm

    What a great experience and amazing creatures. It all looks so beautiful.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 30, 2016 at 7:14 am

      Even more beautiful in person, Debbie. :-)

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  12. Sue says:
    March 30, 2016 at 6:35 am

    The colors are incredible! Always always love your posts and don’t thank you enough for sharing. So fun to go along with you on your amazing adventures.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 30, 2016 at 7:15 am

      Sue, the colors of the Florida springs are breathtaking. Almost surreal! Thank you so much for staying in touch — it means a lot to us to know that our dear friends from Ashland are accompanying us through our blog. oxox

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  13. Diana Rasmussen says:
    March 31, 2016 at 5:37 pm

    Ahhh….what a perfect day…manatees in crystal clear waters and red headed woodpeckers…doesn’t get much better than that…oh and bluegrass! Such a life…love that you share it with us with your blog! See you this spring!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 31, 2016 at 5:55 pm

      Can’t wait to see you two, too — hoping that we’ll be enjoying spring adventures together in Joseph! oxoxo

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  14. LuAnn says:
    April 1, 2016 at 10:03 am

    The water was so crystal clear. When we went swimming with the manatees it was such a special experience. What a wonderful way to spend a day. Your photos are lovely.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 1, 2016 at 10:36 am

      LuAnn, we would love to swim with the manatees. It’s on our list for next year. :-)

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Eric and Laurel

If you enjoy hiking, biking, kayaking, birding, art, music, quirky towns, good food, and good friends—you'll enjoy traveling with us. Join us as we explore the backroads of North America—we love company and comments!

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