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 April 12, 2016

Treasures Of The Forgotten Coast

Tucked into the crook of the Florida Panhandle on the Gulf of Mexico, a two-lane highway meanders along 130 miles of laid-back coastal Old Florida. This is the Forgotten Coast, an area of small fishing towns, pristine wilderness, and rustic beauty. Here, southern accents are as thick as the Spanish moss dripping from the cypress trees, and wildlife vastly outnumbers people.

I know this part of Florida well. My family roots run deep here—both my grandfather and my dad were born in Apalachicola, the crown jewel of the Forgotten Coast. This is home, on the deepest soul-level.

Returning To My Childhood Stomping Grounds

I grew up in Miami but spent many a long weekend and summer vacation in Apalachicola. We fished and crabbed in the bay, and cooked up feasts of blue crab, oysters, flounder, and shrimp. On nearby St. George Island, we enjoyed miles of sugar sand beaches, shelling, and swimming in the warm Gulf waters. We harvested wild blueberries in the Apalachicola National Forest, picnicked on the scenic Ochlockonee River, and cooled off in refreshing Wakulla Springs.

I moved away from Florida more than thirty years ago to expand my horizons, just about the time my parents retired in Eastpoint, across the bay from Apalachicola. I never imagined that decades after I left Florida behind, I’d return to spend winters on the Forgotten Coast.

Apalachicola waterfront
Apalachicola waterfront
Working with my dad
Working with my dad
Dad and Eric working on the seawall
Dad and Eric working on the seawall
Mom in the backyard
Mom in the backyard
Sunset in my folks' backyard
Sunset in my folks’ backyard

Eric and I both love this area, but the primary reason we make the long journey from the West Coast so often is to spend time with my mom and dad. From late November until late March this year we were “next-door neighbors,” parked on my folks’ beautiful property overlooking the bay for about a week at a time, interspersed with our many other Florida adventures. I’m grateful that my mom and dad—now 85 and 88—are still in the home that they built, in the town that they love. I’m also eternally grateful that they chose such an interesting and beautiful spot in which to live. I’m well aware that we could be spending long stretches of time in a much less desirable locale.

Favorite Spots On The Forgotten Coast

By some miracle, the Forgotten Coast has been largely overlooked by developers. The places that I’ve known and loved since childhood are remarkably untouched—I’m hoping they remain so. Here, a few of our favorite spots on the Forgotten Coast (in addition to Apalachicola, of course, which I’ve written about here and here.).

Ochlockonee River State Park

Located in Sopchoppy, 40 miles east of Apalachicola, Ochlockonee River State Park offers hiking and biking trails through pine flatwoods and kayaking on the Ochlockonee River. It’s home to adorable white squirrels (a genetic mutation of the common gray squirrel) and the endangered Red-cockaded Woodpecker. The park protects large stands of longleaf pine, the habitat the woodpeckers need for nesting and foraging.

The campground is set on the banks of the Ochlockonee River, surrounded by pines and scrub oaks. It’s a peaceful setting, with electric, water, and decent Verizon coverage.

Sunset on the Ochlockonee River
Sunset on the Ochlockonee River
Calm day kayaking on the Ochlockonee River
Calm day kayaking on the Ochlockonee River
Outdoor shower at Ochlockonee River State Park
Outdoor shower at Ochlockonee River State Park
On the trails through the piney woods
On the trails through the piney woods
Red-cockaded Woodpeckers
Red-cockaded Woodpeckers
White squirrel
White squirrel
Hermit Thrush in our campsite
Hermit Thrush in our campsite
Spacious campsite at Ochlockonee River State Park
Spacious campsite at Ochlockonee River State Park

St. Mark’s National Wildlife Refuge

Established in 1931, St. Mark’s was one of the first National Wildlife Refuges. The biking and hiking trails are wonderful and there’s lots of birdlife—especially shorebirds, ducks, and wading birds—and of course, alligators. It’s also home to the oldest lighthouse on the Gulf coast, built in 1842 and still in use today.

There’s no camping in the refuge, but Newport Campground, a small county park, is located just a few miles from the refuge (and about 60 miles from Apalachicola). This is one of the few parks we’ve encountered that has lowered their prices while upgrading their facilities. Full-hookups (with internet!) are $28 night, electric and water are $23. An added bonus is the kayak launch for the St. Marks River, located right next to the campground.

St. Marks Lighthouse
St. Marks Lighthouse
Tricolored Heron
Tricolored Heron
Glossy Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Biking the dikes at St. Marks Refuge
Biking the dikes at St. Marks Refuge
Snowy Egret
Snowy Egret
Boardwalks at St. Marks Refuge
Boardwalks at St. Marks Refuge
Newport Campground, St. Marks
Newport Campground, St. Marks

Three miles from the campground is the county launch for the Wakulla River, about a six-mile round trip paddle on a wide, pretty river. Twenty-five miles away is the Wacissa River, one of the most remote and wild rivers in Florida. We discovered a primitive, free, and pretty campground on the banks of the river at Goose Pasture, one of the launch points for the Wacissa. Not close to anything, but if you’re looking for an out in the middle of nowhere adventure, here it is.

On the wild Wacissa River

Wakulla Springs State Park

Lovely Wakulla Springs State Park is worth a stop to stroll through the lodge and grounds—if it’s hot, take a swim in the beautiful spring. Don’t miss the Jungle Cruise that takes you deep into the cypress swamp. I’ve been coming here since I was a child, and never tire of the fun boat trip. You’re guaranteed to see plentiful wildlife (including alligators) and if you’re there in the winter, manatees. No camping here, but it’s just a few miles from Newport Campground.

Playing tourist with our friend Beth
Playing tourist with our friend Beth
Jungle cruise on the Wakulla River
Jungle cruise on the Wakulla River
Anhinga drying its' wings
Anhinga drying its’ wings
Kayaking the Wakulla River
Kayaking the Wakulla River
Spanish moss decorated osprey nest
Spanish moss decorated osprey nest

Next Up: Slowing Down On Dauphin Island

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Categories : Florida, Travel
Tags : Apalachicola, Ochlockonee River State Park, St Marks Wildlife refuge, St. George Island, Wakulla Springs State Park
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Comments

  1. Metamorphosis Lisa says:
    April 12, 2016 at 7:15 am

    I couldn’t possibly pick a favorite photo out of the bunch…there are so many gorgeous shots! Looks like you have had another fabulous winter in FL!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 7:30 am

      I’m glad you enjoyed the photos, Lisa — we had a wonderful time, both with my folks and in our adventures.

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  2. Sue Malone says:
    April 12, 2016 at 7:43 am

    Oh Laurel, I so love that part of Florida, discovered first for me with a visit to my friend in Ocala and a week long stay at a cabin at Indian Pass in 2001. Mo will never brave anything south of Tampa again. Once was enough for her. But she has promised another long winter someday on the Forgotten Coast. So many spring runs left to kayak. I loved every photo. No wonder you ‘get’ Northern Florida.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 7:34 am

      Sue, you understand the allure of the Forgotten Coast. :-) I hope you and Mo will return for more spectacular kayaking on the spring runs. No need to venture south of Tampa.

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  3. Sue says:
    April 12, 2016 at 7:54 am

    This blog is a reminder to us all to keep our children’s interests in mind when deciding where to settle down….if you want them to visit often and with excitement instead of dread…..Your mom is beautiful!

    Your pictures take me right back to Florida….the earthy smells, the warm, “thick” air, the rustling of palms and palmettos and the bird sounds. Ahhhhh, thanks!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:00 am

      Haha, so true! Sue, I really do thank my lucky stars that my mom and dad are in Apalachicola. Loved your description of Florida.

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  4. Suzanne says:
    April 12, 2016 at 8:29 am

    Just beautiful photos, every one of them! This most makes me sigh while visiting my Mom from the flat-lands and strip malls of landlocked Central Texas.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:11 am

      Thank you, Suzanne. I actually thought about you and your long visits to Central Texas to be with family when I was writing this. Glad to hear from you.

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  5. Jodee says:
    April 12, 2016 at 9:18 am

    It sure looks like this is the time of year to be there – the birds and the water are amazing. Great pic of mom. You are all indeed fortunate that they have been able to stay there and that it is such a beautiful place to spend this time. The boat shower is a hoot :-)

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:15 am

      Jodee, winter is the perfect time for Florida. Now that it’s April, we’re heading west! You guys will find lots of fun things to explore should you venture this way.

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  6. Bettina Arrigoni says:
    April 12, 2016 at 9:26 am

    Amazing photos…we can’t wait to revisit with your insights :-)

    Can’t wait to hear about your continuing journeys.
    Bettina

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:18 am

      Bettina, we know you two love the birds as much as we do. Hope you make it back to this area for more birding and exploring!

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  7. Rochelle Furtah says:
    April 12, 2016 at 10:22 am

    We travelled in the area recently and I fell in love with Apalachicola and the entire area. I attended the Oyster Cook-off and had the best oysters ever!
    Thanks for the reminder!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:20 am

      Rochelle, we were at the Oyster Cook-Off in January, too! Wish we had known and could have met up. I agree, Apalachicola oysters are the best!

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  8. Julie McCrum says:
    April 12, 2016 at 12:32 pm

    Awesome reminder we need to take more time going through that area next trip. I love your blog adventure and the organization you have posted. Great job…travel on and savor those days.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:21 am

      Thanks so much, Julie. I’m glad you’re enjoying the blog. The Forgotten Coast is a very good place to slow down and meander. Would be fun to meet up with you next time we’re all in Florida!

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  9. Debbie says:
    April 12, 2016 at 3:23 pm

    So many nice photos but got to say we liked the shower. Mike is looking forward to your Dauphin Island pictures. He was stationed there many moons ago in the Air Force.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:24 am

      Debbie, we thought the shower on the Ochlockonee was pretty cute, too. We really enjoyed our time on Dauphin Island — so interesting that Mike was stationed there!

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  10. Pam Wright says:
    April 12, 2016 at 7:55 pm

    What lovely photos of the area:) Let’s hope the area stays untouched. Old Florida is so precious. Florida does have a lot to offer, if they would remove the humidity and bugs and add some mountains and rock we would probably enjoy it more:) Haha!!

    Love the photo of you and Eric:) I am so glad you shared photos of mom and dad. How sweet:) So glad you are still able to have time with them.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:35 am

      Thanks, Pam. We’re very grateful to have this precious time with my folks. I think our love of kayaking and birding adds a great deal to our enjoyment of our winters in Florida. But come April, when the humidity and bugs start to appear, we’re out of there!

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  11. MonaLiza says:
    April 12, 2016 at 8:58 pm

    I love this part of Florida and we have stayed or visited all the places you took gorgeous pictures of!
    You are taking me back with fond memories of birding there. Love it
    Great pic of mom, she is beautiful. I would say enjoy and cherish all those moments with your parents.
    I noticed a new purple hat.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 13, 2016 at 8:43 am

      ML, every time we passed by Tamara’s in Apalachicola I thought of meeting up with you and Steve there a couple of years ago. You understand exactly how special these times are with family. (Yeah, got another kayaking hat — purple, what a surprise!!)

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  12. Diana says:
    April 12, 2016 at 9:06 pm

    Savor the moments with your mom and dad…..all too soon it changes…..happy for you both to have this time together in such beautiful surroundings! White squirrel, ibis, herons and egrets….who could ask for anything more….minus the gators perhaps.?

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 14, 2016 at 1:07 pm

      You’re so right, Diana. We definitely cherish these times with my folks — creating more memories each time we return.

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  13. Sherry says:
    April 14, 2016 at 6:20 pm

    What a wonderful post about one of my very most favorite areas in all of Florida. How lucky are you to be able to call it home. I would be so proud to have roots in a place as beautiful as this. Your absolutely gorgeous pictures do it justice. Such sunsets!! I just hope you don’t encourage too many more people to come experience it. HA! Your bird photographs are so outstanding and I am green with envy at the red cockaded and TWO of them at that. Love the picture of you and Eric and seeing both your mom and dad. Fabulous post Laurel!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 14, 2016 at 7:53 pm

      Thank you for your lovely comment, Sherry. This area is very dear to my heart, as you know. I’m so glad we were able to share a bit of it with you a couple of years ago — we’re looking forward to more adventures with you guys next winter!

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  14. LuAnn says:
    April 17, 2016 at 7:33 am

    You chose a beautiful collection of photos Laurel. The Forgotten Coast is an area I would love to revisit, as we had too little time to visit during our time in FL.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 17, 2016 at 10:32 am

      LuAnn, it’s a place that we would love to share with you and Terry. Maybe when you get your new travel rig you’ll decide to come back east for another visit! So glad you enjoyed the photos.

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  15. Lolalo in CA says:
    April 26, 2016 at 11:21 am

    This post is sure making me miss Florida. There’s no place like the Forgotten Coast. And how lucky to have a ‘home’ there. Sweet.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      April 26, 2016 at 12:56 pm

      Loretta, I agree — there’s no place like the Forgotten Coast. I miss it already — although I must say I don’t want to be there in the summer! Next winter will be great, though. Hope you guys will be in Florida next winter!

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Eric and Laurel

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