We enjoy challenging hikes. But when I happened across an article in Backpacking Magazine that described Buckskin Gulch as one of the most dangerous hikes in America, I started having second thoughts.
Weighing The Options
Tackling the entire canyon requires an overnight trip (it’s a 21-mile journey); wading through waist-deep pools of cold, muddy water; and navigating rock and log jams with 15-foot or more drop-offs. What makes the canyon so perilous, though, is the risk of flash floods, with no means of escape along most of the route.
Still, we wanted to hike Buckskin Gulch. Not the entire length, but part of it. And preferably, not the part with the deep, cold, mud baths, or the part with the rock falls that require ropes and canyoneering skills. With some research, we came up with a plan.
We stopped at the BLM contact station to inquire about the current conditions. The ranger assured us that with no impending storms within a 50-mile radius, it was a good day for hiking the canyon. The road to the trailhead had even been recently graded. But when I inquired about the condition of the trail, the news was less encouraging.
Making A Plan
Our plan was to begin hiking at the Wire Pass Canyon trailhead. It’s an option with more interesting scenery and a quicker route into the heart of Buckskin Gulch. But I had read accounts of the rockfall that blocks access to Wire Pass Canyon, with some people saying it was a four-foot drop off, others saying it was ten. “The canyon changes with every flash flood,” said the ranger. “Right now, there’s at least a ten-foot dropoff.” Could we climb down the rockfall? “Probably not—but there’s a workaround.” Is there a marked trail? “Nope, but you can’t miss it.” And with these rather vague but encouraging directions, we headed out.
The road to Wire Pass Trailhead
Heading Out On The Adventure
As promised, the road to the Wire Pass trailhead was an easy drive over a recently graded dirt road. We signed in at the trailhead and started out along the sandy wash.
At the Wire Pass Trailhead
After an easy three-quarter-mile hike, we entered the slot canyon, wanting to see for ourselves just how challenging the rockfall would be to navigate. We had already encountered several people on the trail who had turned around, seemingly discouraged, when they reached the enormous choke stone blocking the trail. “What about the alternative trail?” I asked. Everyone told us there wasn’t one.
Beginning the adventure
The rock formations start to get interesting
Descending into Wire Pass Canyon
We reached the choke stone, looked over the edge, and I said, “No way.” But finding the workaround was not as easy as the ranger had promised.
That’s where we need to be
With no marked trail, we started a sharp ascent up the sandstone cliffs, scouting the edge of the canyon until we reached a place where descent was possible. I have no pride when it comes to these kinds of challenges. I don’t care what it looks like—my focus is on getting down without falling over the edge.
A possible route down
The honorable technique of butt-scooting
Once in the slot canyon, it was a remarkably easy and beautiful one-mile hike to the confluence of Wire Pass Canyon and Buckskin Gulch.
Now it’s easy
Wire Pass Slot Canyon
A stone labyrinth
One more obstacle
Just before the junction
A few petroglyphs pecked into the walls
At the confluence, you have a choice: Turn right (down canyon), and you’ll likely encounter mud or deep water about a half-mile in. Turn left, and you wend your way through the magnificent slot canyon of Buckskin Gulch for about two miles before it opens up into a beautiful wash. You can guess which way we chose.
Wending our way through the beautiful slot canyon
Dwarfed by the canyon
A perfect day
Once in the wash, we discovered a wonderland of swirling sandstone and fanciful rock formations that look like soft-serve ice cream.
The trail opens up
An interesting landscape of sandstone
Vast sandstone ledges
Sandstone swirls
The Return Journey
Hiking back, we retraced our steps through the sandstone cathedral of Buckskin Gulch. This time, though, we opted to tackle the boulder fall that chokes Wire Pass Canyon. We figured it couldn’t be much more difficult than the workaround we chose on the way in.
Back into the canyon cathedral
Sculpted waves of sandstone
The rockfall is easier going up than coming down because you can see what you’re doing. But at least in my case, being taller would have helped a lot. After I climbed the rockfall and hoisted myself onto the boulder, I got stuck on my belly, unable to move forward or backward because I couldn’t reach a wall to gain leverage.
It’s harder than it looks
I started doing little pushups, trying to move along. But I was stuck so far back on the boulder that I wasn’t making much progress. And then I started to laugh, which didn’t help at all. Fortunately, two kind hikers at the top each grabbed an arm and pulled, while Eric climbed up the rockfall behind me and pushed on my feet. Thanks to the kindness of strangers, I am not still on that boulder.
If You Go
The best and safest time to hike Buckskin Gulch is the dry season (April through June) when the likelihood of a flash flood is minimal. It’s also the most popular time to hike the canyon, but in mid-May, we saw only a few other people.
To access the Wire Pass trailhead from Page, travel west 34 miles on Highway 89. (Be sure to stop along the way at the Paria BLM contact station for updated road and canyon conditions.) Turn left (south) onto House Rock Valley Road (BLM Road 1065) and drive approximately 8 miles to the trailhead parking area.
Permits are required for hiking and can be obtained at the self-serve pay station at the trailhead. The fee is $6.00 per person/per dog. Be sure to take plenty of water, because there’s none available at the trailhead.
We did it!
When I did the slot last October, that pile of stones and wood immediately beneath the choke stone was not there. To climb up over it would have meant pulling downward on the stone, which seemed a little too “Aron Ralston-ish” for me. There was a stack of cairns on the right going into the slot (left coming out) to mark the “up and over.” I take it the cairns were no longer there?
Suzanne, I flashed on Aron Ralston, too—not a comforting thought while trying to climb over a choke stone. There were no cairns to mark the “up and over.” That would have been helpful!
Woohoo, you did it! Those are the best kind of hikes…a little scrambling and endless beauty all around. I would have loved to see a pic of you being dragged out by both arms!! ;-) Whatever works!
I agree, Lisa—a bit of a challenge feels like an accomplishment. Even one where I had to be dragged out, haha! I kind of wish Eric had gotten a photo, too—but he was busy. :-)
WOW what a hike! I’ve never even heard of this. Really admire your tenacity. Even if everyone you met coming out said there was no work around, you guys found it. Terrific pictures of the beauty all around you. But no shots of the perilous exit? Tell Eric I don’t see why he couldn’t have pushed on your feet and taken a picture of himself doing it and the others pulling your arms! :-)
Haha, the pic of me trying to climb up the boulder pile isn’t embarrassing enough, is it? Sherry, you’re even shorter than I am, so you would be even more at a disadvantage. But I know you wouldn’t give up, either!
I can see why this was on the list – just amazing! The walls are works of art. And oh girl, you make me laugh with your push-ups. Much better to laugh then cry :-) I love the “idea” of slots, but not sure I could keep breathing long enough to make it through the tight spots. Loved coming along with you and Eric though.
It was pretty darned funny, Jodee. Thank goodness for the kindness of strangers. (Actually, they probably just wanted to drag me out of the way.) Glad you accompanied us “virtually” on our adventure. :-)
Wow, Buckskin Gulch has been on my radar for slot canyon hiking for a very long time. 20 years at least. I never made it, and had almost decided that I probably wouldn’t, with those deep cold mud pools and chokestones that you read about. But then again…after this, after you did it,maybe I can at least do part of it. Love the photos, and I do love those slots.
Sue, you should definitely keep Buckskin Gulch on your list! We saw plenty of the beauty of the slot canyon in our seven-mile adventure. I highly recommend it (no deep cold mud pools or canyoneering necessary!).
Great job!! Those obstacles are tough for those of us with short legs. I’m with you and I get to where I need to be anyway I can:) Your narrative about getting stuck on top of the rock reminded me of our hike in Sheetz Gulch in Capitol Reef NP and I had to sit on John’s head to get down from one of the choked areas…too funny! Boy the road to the trailhead was in nice shape for you. We didn’t return to do this hike because the road was so terrible. Next visit in the spring we’ll be back trying this! Can’t wait! Sure is beautiful!!
Thanks, Pam. I know you and I share similar hiking techniques. :-)) You guys are going to love Wire Pass/Buckskin Gulch. Will be interesting to see how far the drop off is when you hike Wire Pass. It’s a gorgeous hike, every bit of it.
We visited Buckskin Gulch prior to Aron Ralston’s tragic journey, doing part of it in one day. I am claustrophobic so upon entering the slot I immediately turned to get the heck out but Terry was behind me, reassuring me I could do it, and he was right. I’m with you Laurel, it doesn’t have to look pretty as long as I get up or down without any injuries. I would love to go back again someday.
We would go back and repeat this hike, too, LuAnn. Next time we’ll try going down canyon—at least until we encounter really deep water or a crazy rock fall.
Way to go on that over and under hike. I would have needed a nap after that. I always imagine a critter watching us from above while in a slot.
It was a good hike, Debbie. I never thought about critters watching us from above—except for ravens. :-)
Congratulations on a successful hike. Arriving back at the car unscathed is always the goal. Looks beautiful but a bit more challenging than the hikes I usually do.
Thanks, Ingrid. It was a bit challenging in places, but most of the hike was easy. Definitely worth the effort!
Hmmm, do you think I can do this? There are so many trails we skipped the last time we were there and this trail has been mentioned several times that we should tackle. Now with your experience, not sure if I will do it. We will be back in this area next spring.
Thank you for the hike for me, ha ha .
Mona Liza, you can absolutely do this hike! But you’ll need some help navigating that choke stone—unless the drop off is much less next spring. I expect to see you guys doing this hike with Pam and John. :-)
Just looking at some of those “slot” photos fills me with anxiety. I think, I’ll enjoy it from above if I ever end up going. Thank you for your wonderful photos in the slot. Love the one of you and Eric at the end.
Brenda, the slot canyon is so beautiful that I never felt anxious. The climbing in and out is what made me anxious. So glad you enjoyed the photo tour. :-)
Perhaps some Xanax and a margarita…it’d be no problem. ;)
Hahaha! That would work—the only problem is you would need to be carried. :-))
What an awesome hike!
Nina
Nina, this is now on our list of top favorite hikes. Just the right amount of challenge and beauty.
I know you survived this as you are now on Lopez.
The rock formations look like they are in motion, it is a peculiar optical illusion. They also have very strong body part resemblances, and as Brenda says, those slot photos are anxiety producing. Such hard won beauty, though.
Sheila, I had the same impression, that some of the formations look like statues of people—beautiful sculptures created by nature. The whole experience was definitely worth the effort.
And you lived to tell the tale! no arm amputations necessary. I think I’ll put this one into the “live vicariously” box, too scary for me. Great colours of the slots.
Glad you could come along with us vicariously, Jane. There really were only a couple of challenging places—it would be better next time around knowing what to expect. Not sure I would tackle the rock fall again.