Thus, in early June, we once again found ourselves in Joseph, Oregon—the first destination on our list when we began our journey three years ago.
A Charming and Artistic Town
Joseph is an easy town to fall in love with. Cozy and welcoming—with only 1,000 residents—the town is postcard perfect, but refreshingly lacking in pretense. Nestled against the snow-capped Wallowa Mountains, there’s a pretty main street brimming with flowers and interesting shops. The street corners are anchored by magnificent bronze sculptures, all created by local artists.
Downtown Joseph
Cowboy bronze in downtown Joseph
The most striking bronze—and the most prominent—is that of Chief Joseph, the esteemed Nez Perce leader who fought, first diplomatically, and then in battle, for the right of his people to remain in their ancestral lands.
Honoring Chief Joseph
The earth is the mother of all people, and all people should have equal rights upon it. ~Chief Joseph
The Legacy of the Nez Perce
Long before white settlers arrived, this rugged place of high mountains, deep canyons, and cascading rivers was the homeland of the Nez Perce. A peaceful nation, the Nez Perce cultivated good relations with white settlers—until gold was discovered nearby, and they were forced out of the valley they called “The Land of Winding Waters.”
The legacy of the Nez Perce is woven deeply into the fabric of Joseph. The town, once called Silver Lake, renamed itself Joseph in 1880 (in honor of Old Chief Joseph, the father of young Chief Joseph). Just outside of town, Chief Joseph the elder is buried, forever overlooking his beloved Wallowa Lake.
Chief Joseph’s gravesite
Adjacent to his gravesite is the Iwetemlaykin Heritage Site. It was here the Nez Perce began the sorrowful journey that took them from their homeland. It is a beautiful place; rolling green hills dotted with wildflowers and a small pond lie beneath the grand presence of the Wallowa Mountains. This is sacred land to the Nez Perce, and it is a gift to be able to walk the trails.
Trails at Iwetemlaykin Heritage Site
Adventures in Joseph
We spent our week in Joseph hiking, biking, and exploring the town. The Eagle Cap wilderness is nearby. This is truly wild country, best seen on backpacking trips. But a few trails allow access into the wilderness for reasonably easy hiking adventures. We hiked both the Chief Joseph trail just outside of Wallowa State Park, and the Hurricane Creek trail, just a few miles from town.
Chief Joseph Trail
Hiking the Hurricane Creek Trail: Click on photos for a larger image
For a different type of adventure, we “rode the rails” on a unique bicycle-built-for-two contraption with the Joseph Branch Rail Riders, pedaling 12-miles of repurposed train tracks through undulating farmland, from Joseph to Enterprise and back.
Riding the rails in Joseph
Miles of repurposed train tracks through beautiful scenery
A Bobolink, the first one we’ve seen
Wildflowers on the Hells Canyon Byway
We planned our visit to Joseph to coincide with the peak wildflower bloom along the Hells Canyon Byway. It’s a long, slow, dusty 40-mile drive (three-quarters on a rough gravel road) to the Buckhorn Lookout, but absolutely worth it. The road passes through the Zumwalt Prairie, Oregon’s largest native wild grassland. The wildflower bloom in the grasslands and at the canyon overlook was just as spectacular as we remembered.
Buckhorn Lookout Station is a great place to stop for wildflower viewing
Looking toward Hells Canyon
Hells Canyon in the distance
Vivid blue penstemon
Field of lupine
I wish I could say that we could now cross Joseph off our list. But we can’t. There’s more we want to explore in the area—rafting the scenic Grande Ronde River is at the top of the list. I think we need another lifetime to fit everything in.
About the RV Park
We spent six nights in Joseph, and just like last time, stayed in town at tiny Five Peaks RV Park. It’s the perfect location for walking and biking into the pretty little town and just a few miles from trails heading into the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Full hookups, excellent WiFi, friendly owners, and a cozy, peaceful vibe (no showers, bathrooms, or laundry).
Cozy site at Five Peaks RV Park
We were in Joseph in September one year, also a beautiful time of year to be there. Nope, we are not crossing off Joseph any time soon, still much to do and see and hike there. Might have to try that bike ride, sounds fun.
Sue, we were thinking September might be a good time in Joseph—we’ll have to plan a return trip then! The bike trip was a fun little “different” adventure.
I so “get” it, the list gets longer, not shorter!
We’ve been near Joseph, but not actually there and it’s on my ever lengthening list! Great pictures, I love the feet of the coffee house table….
Sue, I was hoping someone would notice the feet on the coffee house table! You guys would really enjoy the ambiance of Joseph.
I enjoy reading about your journeys. This one especially is meaningful to me. In the early 70’s, we lived in Spokane and did a lot of backpacking. Eagle Cap is easily one of our most favorite places. Crystal turquoise lakes fed by snowpack, alpine valleys with wildflowers near remaining snow piles – in July! – and clear blue skies.
I agree – you can’t just check off a place and say, “Seen it”!! There are many places we’d like to revisit and Joseph, OR, is one of those places. Thank you!
Thanks for commenting, Nancy. :-) Your backpacking trips in the Eagle Cap wilderness sound amazing. You paint a lovely picture with your words.
We too loved Joseph and our only experience was a day trip to the area! I completely understand why one could return again and again. The Zumwalt Prairie is calling my name!
Lisa, the Zumwalt Prairie is spectacular in wildflower season. You and Hans would really enjoy all of the hiking near Joseph, too.
The mochas look great. We wanted to hit Joseph this year but time ran out. It looks beautiful. You are right about time and are smart to appreciate it.
Debbie, we’re so grateful for this opportunity for travel and the amazing adventures we’re having. I always need to remind myself to be present and to not think too much about the long list of things we still want to do.
This is another area we have yet to visit. The “list” keeps getting longer!! It is hard to make ourselves stay away from places we love to see new places. There are just too many wonderful places in this country. Oh, to have such decisions:) The wildflowers are beautiful, and I love that orchid!! Thanks Eric for getting on all fours for the photo:)
I know you understand, Pam! There are so many new places to explore, but it’s hard to stay away from places we’ve discovered that we love. Eric is happy that you appreciate his efforts for that flower shot. :-)
We have been fortunate to stay in the area twice. The first time we stayed in the state park, as I recall it was okay. The highlight was a very tame white tail buck deer that was in velvet (the horns are still soft and warm), that we got to touch.Amazing!
The second time we stayed with family in the lodge. The highlight of that trip was a ride in the tram; snow at the top, plus staying in the quaint lodge. We also toured one of the bronze studios.Not to be missed.
Too many other things to share! I could go on and on.
It sounds like you have some really special memories of the area, Jerry. I would love to tour one of the bronze studios—there’s another reason for us to return to Joseph! Thanks for the tip.
Gorgeous lupines. They always say, don’t try to do everything, expect that you will be back. Wow, I’ve got a lot of places to go back to for the things I’ve missed.
The lupine bloom was spectacular, Jane. I always try to remind myself that we can go back, but I still have a hard time reining myself in.
Gorgeous lupines! I wonder if we can hit Joseph next year and catch those wildflowers.
I agree the list never shortens it keeps longer especially with your enticing return trips to beautiful places.
You would love photographing the wildflowers, ML. Try to visit in June—it seems to be the perfect time. Don’t miss the Buckhorn Overlook!
The weather did not cooperate when we were in Joseph so this will stay on our bucket list. I agree with you Laurel, our list is becoming longer, not shorter. But oh, what we all have seen!
LuAnn, that’s a good reminder—even though our lists keep getting longer, we’ve been so fortunate with all that we’ve already seen and experienced. I feel certain you guys will enjoy Joseph when you make it there.
Haven’t been there since I was a little kid. Really looks like I need to get back there. Will drag the husband too. LOL. You took wonderful photos again!
Thanks, Brenda. Definitely drag hubby there! He’ll love it.