With beautiful natural surroundings, plenty of outdoor recreation, seafood right off the boats, a wonderful farmers’ market, craft beer, and friendly folks (and only 10,000 of them), I think to myself, “Oh, this would be an easy place to live!” And then I remember that Astoria gets an insane amount of rainfall each year.
Lewis & Clark Ended Their Epic Journey Here
This is a wild place, at the confluence of the mouth of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. The weather was tame and sunny while we were there. But it’s not always that way, as Lewis and Clark would attest. This is the place they ended up in their epic journey down the Columbia River in November of 1805. I’ll bet they would have enjoyed their stay more had they arrived in summer instead of winter.
With the arrival of Lewis and Clark, Astoria became the first American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. Of course, they weren’t the first people here. The Chinook Indians had villages up and down both sides of the Columbia. I’ve often thought that if I were to be plunked down somewhere and forced to survive off the land, I’d choose the Pacific Northwest. With an abundance of salmon, shellfish easy for the taking, and bountiful harvests of berries, there would be plenty to eat.
Picturesque downtown Astoria
From the Chinook to the Coast Guard
Astoria has a rich maritime history. Here, the convergence of the mighty Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean creates one of the most treacherous harbor entrances in the world. With 2,000 vessels wrecked along the coast and 700 souls lost, this dangerous stretch of water has long been referred to as the “Graveyard of the Pacific.”
For a fascinating immersion into the maritime history of the Columbia, don’t miss the excellent Columbia River Maritime Museum. We spent half a day there and were completely captivated by the history of the river, the salmon fisheries, the bar pilots, and the Coast Guard. Watching the videos of the bar pilots and the Coast Guard in action is terrifying.
The Columbia River Maritime Museum
To enter or leave the Columbia River, any ship over 100 feet must relinquish the helm to a bar pilot. This elite group of ship captains undergoes rigorous testing to qualify for the job—one of their many exams includes drawing a nautical chart of the bar from memory.
A retired Coast Guard rescue boat
The Columbia River Bar Pilots credit a one-eyed Chinook Indian chief named Concomly as the first bar pilot. A skilled navigator and savvy trader, Chief Concomly paddled a dugout canoe across the bar, providing ships safe passage in exchange for blankets, fishhooks, and tools.
Today, the river bar pilots use speedy pilot boats and sometimes helicopters to board the ships, requiring swaying rope ladders and a risky descent (and ascent). Meanwhile, the Coast Guard is always standing ready to rescue boats of any size that run into trouble on the bar.
The Columbia, a floating lightship
More Cool Stuff in Astoria
• The Waterfront: Interesting historic buildings, breweries, cool shops, fisheries, and the maritime museum are all located along the scenic waterfront. We walked five miles of trails along the water, and hopped on the historic red trolley for a ride back just so we could listen to the entertaining conductor regale us with the history of the waterfront.
Vintage trolley on the waterfront
• Northwest Wild Seafood Market: This was a fabulous find! It’s a little hole-in-the wall seafood market with excellent seafood and a beautiful dock with a view of the Columbia and the Astoria-Megler Bridge. We enjoyed a bowl of steamer clams, and took home smoked tuna, fresh salmon, and fresh Pacific cod.
View from the West Mooring Basin
Steamers at Northwest Wild Fish Market
• Sunday Market: Covering three city blocks in the attractive Victorian downtown area of Astoria, the Sunday Market offers up local produce, arts and crafts, and music from 10 till 3. If you’re there in early June, expect lots and lots of asparagus. I wanted to bring home the miniature goat at the goat soap stand, but Eric said no.
The Astoria Sunday Market
He’s little, he’ll fit in the trailer
• Fort George Brewery: Astoria boasts half-a-dozen craft breweries; that’s a lot for a small town, but hey, we’re not judging. We chose Fort George out of the bunch, and loved everything about it—the upstairs location with a view of the waterfront; the organic, local food offerings (we enjoyed delicious chop salads with grilled chicken); and the tasty beer. As always, the IPA’s and the stouts were our favorites.
Beer tasting at Fort George
• Blue Scorcher Bakery: In the same building as Fort George Brewery, the Blue Scorcher Bakery brews excellent organic coffee and knows how to make perfect almond croissants. We started off our Sunday market tour here, and also treated ourselves the morning of laundry day. It always helps to have a treat on laundry day.
Starting the day right at Blue Scorcher Bakery
• The Astoria Column: Built in 1926, the column is the tallest point in Astoria, at 660 feet above sea level. There’s a steep winding staircase to the top, and it’s claustrophobic and dark and dank inside. The views are great, but honestly, I think you can see just about as much from the viewpoints near the parking lot. It’s worth paying the $5 fee to get into the parking area, but I wouldn’t bother making the trek to the top of the column again.
View from the Astoria Column parking lot, LOL
About The Campground
We spent five nights at nearby Ft. Stevens State Park, just across the bridge from Astoria. The campground is gorgeous, with five miles of hiking trails and nine miles of biking trails that lead to the beach, the 100-year old wreck of the Peter Iredale, and to the historic military fort. We loved being able to bike everywhere in the park on dedicated trails.
Biking the trails at Fort Stevens
The wreck of the Peter Iredale on the beach, biking distance from the campground
Fort Stevens guarded the mouth of the Columbia River from the Civil War through World War II. There’s a small museum and an interesting short tour of the guardhouse with memorabilia from WW II.
Inside the historic Guard Station at Fort Stevens
This is an enormous campground, with at least 500 campsites. We loved our site in loop N; we lucked out with a corner site with neighbors only on one side and a big grassy lawn area on the other. There are many sites in the campground that would undoubtedly be more private, but would also be unbearably dark and dreary on a rainy day.
In early to mid-June, the mosquitoes are frightening—there are lots of wetlands for them to breed. We weren’t bothered during the day, but come dusk, we were safely inside. All of the sites are paved, with water and electric hookups (some loops have sewer), and Verizon coverage is uniformly terrible.
Our enormous backyard at Fort Stevens campground
We did this trip but we were headed south. Great to see you smiling again and savoring the local fare. Life is so full of exactly what you are doing. Parts are all in for our RV, the metal frame will begin to be created and we should have it back by the end of next week. New England trip by mid August is the plan. We are looking for a smaller unit so here’s hoping that happens in our future. Love your posts!!!
Julie, so glad to hear that you’re getting repairs made and will soon be back to your travels! I’m looking forward to hearing about your New England adventures. Happy summer!
Looks like a beautiful area. As the temps soar here in AZ, the PNW is looking more and more intriguing. Enjoy your summer!
Ingrid, we love the PNW, as you know. Cool summers are definitely part of the attraction!
You know we love it! Astoria is becoming our regular Sunday Thing! And ALL YES to Blue Scorcher, and treats on laundry day – which is kind of every day here, and explains some of my extra stuffing… ;o)
Hahaha, you are hilarious, Kim!! I was thinking it’s a good thing we don’t live there, because that bakery is ADDICTIVE.
Will send along your post to John’s sister Rosie at Erickson Floral …so miss you both and wish the timing were better to have connected in Astoria… but leave it to the two of you to find the best without us!!! Love to last a lifetime or till we meet again!
Oh boy, do I ever wish we could have met up with you guys in Astoria! We really need to plan a trip there together. I had no idea it was such a cool little town. Until then….are you coming to visit us on Lopez? We hope so!!
I can’t believe Eric won’t let you get a goat! They’re freaken adorable! People put them in pajamas and post videos of them on youtube. I have lost hours of my life to watching this stuff. Next time you’re having a bad day, search for “goats in pajamas”. I guarantee you’ll feel better in about 10 seconds. :)
Yeah, no kidding! I can’t believe he said “no” to the little goat! Thanks for the tip on goats in pajamas. That might cheer me up. :-))
I’m so bummed I couldn’t get us into Fort Stevens -it’s such a beautiful park. Good to know about the mosquitoes :-( At least we will be there on a weekend and can enjoy the market. I hope the goat is there!! Looks like we have another opportunity for some copying :-))
Jodee, I guarantee one trip won’t be enough to Astoria, so you’ll have another chance at Fort Stevens. Have fun in Astoria — we already want to return! (Say “hi” to the little goat for me. :-))
Wow…I knew it…we so need to go there. Since Astoria averages 85 inches of rainfall per year, I think I can handle it since we just dealt with 123″. The traveling looks good on both you! I am so happy that you are back at it again. p.s. What bike do you own? I am looking to get one.
Brenda, thanks so much for your kind comment. We’re very happy to be traveling again. :-)) This was our first trip to Astoria, but it won’t be our last. You guys will love it! (You’ve had 123 inches of rain?? Whoa!)
Okay, as far as my bike, it’s a Trek hybrid — a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike. It’s nothing fancy, but I love it and ride it on all kinds of terrain. I’ve had it about 10 years — it’s been through a lot and is still going strong.
124.4″ officially at the airport ag station just above our house. We got initiated and then some. Thanks for the bike info. Yes, looking for a walk through frame hybrid. Would rather bike in a more upright position. My wrists can’t handle the constant lean on them. Too much shoveling over the years. Ha!
That’s another thing I really like about my bike — riding upright. It hurts my wrists to lean on them, too, even though I haven’t done near as much shoveling as you have. :-)
Surely a goat would make a lovely pet in an RV! ;-)
We parked in a neighborhood below Astoria Column and walked to the top of the hill and the top of the column…heck of a workout!
Can’t wait for all the wonderful farmers markets this summer in OR!
Lisa, we were planning to do the hike up to the Astoria Column (before hiking up into the column) and ran out of time. But now maybe I’m happy we didn’t! :-))
That little goat was the PERFECT size for our trailer!
This post is so timely since we are heading that way in a month. We just rode the motorcycle through Astoria and didn’t stay long. Now I am very excited to test out all the places you mentioned:) I had no idea that coming or going in or out of the Columbia was so challenging. Interesting information!
Pam, I had no idea the Columbia bar was so treacherous, either! I found it fascinating that a one-eyed Chinook Chief paddling a dugout canoe was the first “bar pilot.” Don’t miss the Maritime Museum — it’s enthralling. And please send me an almond croissant from the Blue Scorcher. :-))
Love, love, love Astoria for all the reasons you talked about. The only pall on our memories of Astoria is that we had to put our dear sweet old Sasha to sleep there last June. I know we’ll be back again though, so many things to do and eat there!
The times we visited, Ft. Stevens SP was filled to the brim with large, loud families and those pesky mosquitoes so we never stayed there.
Sue, there’s a lot to love in Astoria, as you said. But sad memories for you, for sure. Ha, we saw some of those enormous family groups at Fort Stevens — I counted 15 camp chairs in one site. Fortunately, they were all very far away from us. :-)
I’m thinking you’d want a bigger RV for that adorable little goat ;-)
We loved Astoria. Couldn’t get a site at Fort Stevens but found an RV park close enough that we could walk or ride our bikes there.
Agree with you about the good beer at Fort George Brewery. Now we want to go back to Astoria!
We already want to go back to Astoria! It was such a blast riding our bikes everywhere, and helped to work off the bakery/brewery indulgences. Sort of.
I actually really and truly have always wanted a goat — but maybe we’ll wait until we stop traveling fulltime. :-))
Miniature San Francisco sounds about perfect. Sounds like it rolled out the beautiful weather carpet for you comparatively. Very interesting story about bar pilots. I knew the coast guard was there and often wondered if Astoria was a “military town” but I’d never heard of bar pilots. I have just turned your list of what you saw into our Astoria to do list including your advice about the column. IF we can ever get to the PNW of course. I also vote for the goat. How about as a toad if Eric won’t allow him inside? David’s ears literally perked up – and he has ones that can do that – at the idea of his two favorite places in any town we got to, the bakery and the brewery, are in the same building. Very intelligent planning he thinks. He’d definitely like to be right over especially when he saw the picture of the vintage hardware store. And enormous yet to boot. The campground sounds great except for the coverage. That would make it impossible for us for more than a few days with David’s medical issues. But I love your backyard. I know this comment is too long, aren’t mine always but I do have to say some other things about your constantly fantastic photography. #1 – how did you get that vintage car to pose in your sweet downtown picture? #2 Your gorgeous view – well that’s an understatement. #3 The goat is perfect for you except he needs a purple collar but you can fix that. Or maybe you should consider that beautiful elk for the toad idea. #4 Wonderful picture of you in front of the multicolored brews. Nice choice of colors for the picture. I’m sure that’s why you chose them right? Not for the taste. #5 That sunset shot really does have to be something you sell to the city. I mean a flock of birds too. Get out of here!! THE END! Stop putting up these things that activate my blabber fingers. THE REAL END!
I do believe you outdid yourself with this comment, Sherry! Thanks for reading everything. And we appreciate your wonderful comments about our photography. :-))
I just happened to see that vintage car cruising by and ran out to capture the photo. Love it when things work out that way AND the photo is in focus! Oh, and yes, we agree with David that a bakery and brewery in the same building is a brilliant combination, just not to partake of both at the same time of day. :-)
Your descriptions of your adventures always so
insightful, photos stunning. I especially like the one
of your backyard at FS, the Wilson’s Warbler and
the amazing, amazing view of the Kegler-Astoria
Bridge. WOW. I haven’t been to Astoria since I
went there with John and George around 2004,
think it is time to go. Did you poke around in the
cool looking hardware store? I seriously think you
and Eric should write/publish a travel book – you
have connections don’t you Laurel. Safe traveling.
Hugs and love, Peggy
Peggy, it’s definitely time for a revisit to Astoria! I enjoyed browsing the antique hardware store — that’s where I took the photo of the vintage wooden floats. You would love the store, the bakery, the museum…all of it!
I just had a thought….our friends Kim and Rick just set up a beautiful Airbnb in Seaside, just 15 miles from Astoria. Check it out here http://www.mermaidsnest.com.
oxoxox
Designated bike trails are the best and looks like we may have to check this one out. The blue bird days looked just right and not too hot.
Yes, designated bike trails are our favorites. I like not having to contend with traffic. Our weather has been perfect — cool enough for a light jacket, which suits me just fine.
I have rated our biking at Ft Stevens high up as the trail then was laden with yellow flowers. The fish and chip at bowpicker was also the best we ever had. But I suppose that kind of food is not in your diet. Your trek in the Oregon coast brought lots of fond memories.
It’s been a fabulous coastal journey, ML. Glad our post brought back good memories for you. Even though we don’t eat fried foods (although the Bowpicker was tempting!) we’ve been indulging in all kinds of yummy seafood all along the coast. Love it!
We had such a grand time while in Astoria, from taste-testing our way through the Sunday market, stuffing ourselves on the local seafood, to sampling the local brews. Love the photos of the wreck of the Peter Iredale (always interesting to see the many ways photographers have captured this view), the elk in velvet, and you testing a flight of micro-brews. Great to see you looking so relaxed and happy.
Thanks, LuAnn. We’re definitely happy to be back on the road. Astoria was a delight — we’ll definitely return! Glad you enjoyed the photos. Can’t wait to see what you’re capturing in Yellowstone!