But that was before we unearthed the gems of West Texas. There is beauty and peace in these wide-open spaces, quirky towns scattered about, and interesting characters who call this far-flung region home. We cross Texas almost yearly in our travels from Oregon to Florida, and I’m happy to say we no longer dread the journey—in fact, we’ve found much that entices us to return.
Cruising down the highway in the company of tumbleweeds
Davis Mountains State Park
In late December, we parked ourselves for a few days at Davis Mountains State Park. We’ve been here before and had good memories of the park and the surrounding little towns of Fort Davis, Marfa, and Alpine. This time, we had some serious winter weather, with temperatures dipping into the 20s at night. But the days were sunny and bright, and we had a good time hiking and exploring Fort Davis and the nearby towns of Alpine and Marfa.
The CCC boys were busy at Davis Mountains State Park in the 1930’s, including building this shelter overlooking Fort Davis
On the old CCC Trail to Fort Davis
Built of handmade adobe bricks, the Indian Lodge was one of the projects of the CCC and is still used as lodging for park guests
A brand new luxurious birding pavilion is a great place for morning coffee and birdwatching
Early morning birding at Davis Mountains State Park
A Ruby-crowned Kinglet arrives for a peanut butter breakfast
Fort Davis National Historic Site
Just a few miles from the state park is Fort Davis National Historic Site, considered one of the finest examples in the country of a frontier American Southwest military post. From the mid-to-late 1800s, army personnel stationed here protected settlers, mail coaches, and traders en route between El Paso and San Antonio.
Many of the buildings have been restored (including a state-of-the-art frontier army hospital) and the excellent new visitor center presents stories of the settlers and the Apache and Comanche that called this land home.
On the trail overlooking Fort Davis
Fort Davis Officers Quarters
The newly renovated visitor center at Fort Davis
Apache Kiowa moccasins
Sunset in the Davis Mountains
McDonald Observatory
Ten miles up a winding mountain road from the state park is the McDonald Observatory, one of the most highly regarded observatories in the world. The Davis Mountains boast some of the darkest, clearest night skies in the country.
Several years ago we attended a star program at the observatory; this time, we returned for a daytime tour that included seeing some of the enormous telescopes up close (including one of the most powerful telescopes in the world) and a real-time viewing of the sun.
Many of the scientific details from the tour have already escaped me, but I do remember the quote by Albert Einstein that was written in large script on the wall of one of the observatories: “The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all art and science.”
(Book your tickets for observatory tours ahead and book online. The tours often sell out, and the tickets are cheaper online.)
The sundial at McDonald Observatory
Witnessing the birth of stars in a faraway star nursery
The original McDonald Observatory, built in the 1930s
Explaining the inside workings of an enormous research telescope
Marfa, Texas
Marfa has definitely been “discovered” since we first visited back in 2012. The vibe now seems more hip and less quirky, but it’s still an interesting place to visit for a few hours, especially if you enjoy wandering and photography.
Founded in the early 1880s as a railroad water stop in the middle of nowhere, Marfa has become a haven for artists and urban escapees.
We were happy to see the Food Shark still in operation. On our first visit to Marfa, we were delighted by the delicious gourmet Mediterranean food offerings of the funky silver food truck. Five years later, the truck looks even more decrepit. But our Greek salads were fresh and tasty, made with organic greens, fresh herbs, feta from a local goat dairy, and homemade hummus. Another lesson in “do not judge by appearances.”
Marfa, Texas
The Presidio County Courthouse, built in 1886
An adobe church against the always cobalt skies in Marfa
In the courtyard of the historic El Paisano Hotel, circa 1930 (paisano means roadrunner)
The lobby of El Paisano Hotel decked out for the holidays
Checking out Spare Parts in downtown Marfa (a vintage Western wear store)
Local designer clothing and local poetry on the walls of Communitie Marfa
The Food Shark
Lunch in the funky courtyard of the Food Shark. The big bus is a dining car—a new addition to the Food Shark compound.
Alpine, Texas
The biggest town in Far West Texas, Alpine (population 6,000) is the jumping-off point for Big Bend National Park. We spent a day in town exploring and stocking up at the excellent Blue Water Natural Foods store for our upcoming week in the national park.
While we were at it, we paid a visit to the small, very good, and free Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross University. And enjoyed an excellent lunch at Reata Cowboy Cuisine.
Downtown Alpine, Texas
Postcard murals in Alpine
Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross University
Inside the Museum of the Big Bend
A traveling shrine carried by Spanish missionaries
Reata Cowboy Cuisine in Alpine
Cowboy decor at Reata
Contender for the best Tortilla Chicken Soup we’ve ever had
About the campground:
Davis Mountains State Park was established as one of the first Texas State Parks, and it’s one of our favorites. The setting is beautiful, the night skies are wonderfully dark and star-filled, the sites are spacious, and there is a network of excellent hiking trails that range from easy to challenging. If you enjoy birding, you’ll appreciate this park. A couple of lovely birding pavilions provide a comfortable spot for watching the birds that come to the well-stocked feeders and water features.
Sites range from no-hookup to full-hookup, and there are bathhouses with hot showers and a dump station. There’s no cell service in the campground, but take the scenic drive to the top of the mountain overlooking Fort Davis and you’ll have excellent coverage (it’s also a great place for sunset).
A bonus is that Davis Mountains State Park is ideally located for exploring Fort Davis (a short trip down the mountain), the McDonald Observatory (about 10 miles up the mountain), Marfa (25 miles southwest) and Alpine (25 miles southeast).
Davis Mountains State Park Campground
Great photos as always. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks, Christine. Glad you enjoyed the West Texas tour.
So, that’s where the Ruby Crowned Kinglets go in the winter. I loved seeing them in Eugene. We only have golden crowned kinglets up on Lopez.
Are those moccasins really green?
Thank you again for all the educational info, from places I of which I am unaware.
Sheila, I’m so glad we can share places with you that you might not otherwise visit. West Texas is pretty remote!
I think that’s the first time we’ve ever managed to get a photo of the kinglet with the ruby crown showing. And yes, those moccasins were really chartreuse and sooo beautiful!
This area is on my list, has been for many years but we never seem to actually turn off the highway and GO! Texas always seems to loom in the center of our travels also and we are learning that it is not always a place to be driven through but a place to stop and investigate. Thanks for this post Laurel.
Sue, you described exactly what we were feeling the first couple of times we faced the great expanse of Texas. When we slowed down and started exploring, we were happily surprised with how beautiful, diverse, and interesting the state is. We still have more to discover!
Very nice (as always!), and a pleasant reminder of my trip to the Trans-Pecos many years ago! I stayed in the Indian Lodge, hiked the trails, saw some great birds. I also visited the observatory and tried (unsuccessfully) to experience the “Marfa Lights”. Then I visited Big Bend National Park for the Colima Warbler. Thanks for the memories!
That sounds like a fabulous trip, Dick! I’m so glad our post brought back good memories for you. The Trans-Pecos is a unique region, for sure. We finally made it to Big Bend NP and already want to return!
OMG. Those are my high top chartreuse moccasins! ..Which incidentally match the color of that Kinglet bird…sweet catch up post…hope you are happy where you are NOW…
Diana, you definitely need those chartreuse moccasins! I’m very slowly getting caught up…our time in Florida with family is taking precedence over everything else, as you know. Yes, we’re happy. :-)
We will definitely spend more time exploring these areas of Texas next time we make the cross country trip. We were where you were the first time – just wanting to get it done. But we know there is so much to see if we just take the time to get off the main road and really explore. The McDonald Observatory by itself is well worth a side trip! For the time being though, we’ll just be vicariously visiting through your posts and gorgeous photos.
Laura, when we gave in to the vastness of Texas and started searching for interesting things to do, it was transformative! It’s still a looong way across Texas, but now it’s an adventure instead of an interminable boring drive.
Your post captured the essence of Alpine, Marfa and Ft Davis. We spent the month of Sept at the Lost Alaskan RV Resort in Alpine. We enjoyed the wall murals all over town. Also for such a small town they must have at least 8-9 food trucks serving delicious food. Did you hike up the trail behind the university to view the “Desk”? We stumbled on Alpine to get away from the oppressive heat along the I-10. At 4500′ we found the temps to be perfect.
JR, we noticed the Lost Alaskan when we were in Alpine for the day and I thought it looked like a good place to stay for a longer visit. Thanks so much for the great tips on the hiking and food trucks! Alpine is a wonderful little town and we’re looking forward to returning.
We were suprised how much we enjoyed Texas’s states parks last year watching the birds, even if we don’t know who they are. The tortilla soup looked great.
Debbie, we’ve found Texas state parks to be some of the nicest anywhere. And they all seem to be bird-friendly (although Davis Mountains SP has the fanciest bird blinds we’ve seen). That tortilla soup was the best!
We did this trip last year…Hueco Tanks, Ft.Davis, Alpine, Marfa and had a great time.Balmorhea was a fun day trip also. We loved Big Bend and can’t wait to read of your adventures and see your pics. Brings back lots of good memories.
It sounds like we did the same trip as you, Joan! We didn’t go to Balmorhea SP this trip, but we’ve been there a couple of times and have always enjoyed it. We loved Big Bend NP, too. I can’t believe it took us so many trips across Texas to finally get ourselves there!
We loved visiting Fort Davis several years back. Wonderful place to camp. I love the photo of the Ruby-crowned Kinglet. Gorgeous.
We took the star gazing program also.Just loved it. The laser pointer the guide used looked like it was touching the stars. Just an amazing program. Thanks for sharing what it looks like in the daylight. We need to stop and see it during the daylight now.
Haven’t been to Marfa…yet. The courthouse looks lovely. Foodie truck is a go too.
We drove through Alpine but didn’t stop. The Museum looks like one I would enjoy.
Marsha, we did the nighttime star gazing program several years ago and loved it, but it was way too cold this time to go stand outside on the top of the mountain! Our camp host had a big telescope set up and was doing a star program in the campground so we didn’t have to leave home. Those laser pointers are cool, aren’t they?
I think you guys will enjoy the daytime program at the observatory. And Marfa and Alpine.
You did a great job trying to make Texas sound inviting:) But I’m not buying it! Haha!!! You did find some interesting towns. Maybe one day again:)
Pam, we would go to Texas even if we didn’t have to because there are so many interesting places to explore! (I know you find that hard to believe, haha!) The Texas state parks are some of the best we’ve found anywhere, and we love the diversity, from mountains to plains to beaches. Cool cities, quirky little towns, fascinating history, great birding…there’s a lot we enjoy.
Thanks to your previous visits, I learned about this area and we thoroughly enjoyed our explorations although we missed the Food Shark. I also liked our nighttime tour with the stars at McDonald Observatory. Once again thanks for taking us back through your lenses.
I’m glad we helped inspire you to visit this area, MonaLiza. We enjoyed both the day and the night tours at the observatory — I think you inspired us to go back for the daytime tour on this trip!
You’re right, somehow I missed it. What a perfect opening shot for a post on Texas followed by a tumbleweed. You are too perfect. I’ve dreaded Texas too and now I’d give anything to follow in your footsteps. Love the CCC shelter and an adobe lodge, amazing. Those boys were everywhere. How did we let such a good idea go? David is reading the Larry McMurtry series about this area of Texas and the Comanche and Apache. He’d really love to visit this area. Love the Food Shark. Alpine’s murals are fabulous. Really looking forward to your visit to Big Bend. Been on my wishlist FOREVER. David did get to go for Thanksgiving for a day or two and raves about it.
Sherry, I hope you and David will be able to spend some time in West Texas. And I really, really hope you’ll get to Big Bend. I know you will love it. The books that David is reading sound interesting—I enjoy reading novels that take place in locations where we’ve traveled.
We didn’t get to spend near enough time in this part of Texas. A big winter storm approaching had us packing up and leaving early. We did do a bit of hiking and exploring of the fort near Davis Mountain but when the snow started to fly, we decided wisely to move on. The storm that blew through was nothing to scoff at. You have shown us some wonderful little gems to be discovered there. Thanks Laurel!
LuAnn, I can imagine a big winter storm could be pretty intense in the Davis Mountains! It was really cold while we were there, but no snow. It’s a place worth returning to for more exploration. :-)
Pretty awesome that you even make Texas look good! I love that bird blind – the ones we’ve seen have been pretty rough :-) And the Alpine murals are stunning.
Jodee, Texas is great! Honestly! Even if we didn’t have to travel through Texas to get to Florida, we would still return because there’s so much that we find interesting.
So happy I found your blog. We’re leaving southern California the first week of April for Big Bend NP You’ve given me great ideas of places to stay and see. Thanks Will be following your blog.☺
Oh good! I’m happy you found us. Enjoy your travels — Big Bend NP is spectacular! Blog coming soon. :-))