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 December 7, 2018

Authentic Western Gems: Sheridan & Cody, WY

One of the things I love most about our full time travels is discovering places we would otherwise never visit. We plan our journeys starting with a rough outline of things we want to see, and then connect the dots with mystery stops along our routes. More often than not, those unknown places turn out to be gems.

That’s exactly what happened when we rolled into Sheridan, Wyoming. We knew nothing about the town, other than that it was a good stopping off place on our way to Yellowstone from Devils Tower National Monument.

What we discovered is a totally cool town with a distinct western flair. Not only does Sheridan celebrate all things cowboy, but it also honors the Plains Indians culture. And the location is beautiful, set against the backdrop of the Bighorn Mountains.

Historic Main Street in Sheridan, Wyoming

King’s Saddlery, a world famous rope and saddle shop

The Mint Bar, circa 1907 transitioned to the Mint Cigar Company and Soda Shop in 1920 as a front for a speakeasy during Prohibition

There’s a lot of great hiking in the Bighorn Mountains. We choose a beautiful six-mile hike in Tongue River Canyon. It was just enough to make us want to return for more.

Hiking Tongue River Canyon Trail

A Lazuli Bunting serenaded us on the trail

The Brinton Museum And Historic Quarter Circle A Ranch

One of our most interesting finds was The Brinton Museum, located on a historic ranch in nearby Big Horn. The ranch was the former home of rancher Bradford Brinton, an avid collector of Western art and American Indian artifacts.

It’s a complicated story, but essentially the museum is the result of Brinton’s legacy combined with the efforts of an Anglican priest in Chicago who was safekeeping a treasure trove of Plains Indians artifacts for 40 years. The grandson of the Mars candy bar tycoon who lives next door to the ranch provided the funding for the gorgeous new museum building.

The Brinton Museum is an ecologically sustainable and beautiful structure

The new museum was dedicated with the blessing of elders from the Crow, Northern Cheyenne, and Lakota tribes, who were pleased that the artifacts stored in Chicago for so many years were returned to their homeland.

Sioux-style Warbonnet used for ceremony, not war

The location is idyllic; the art collection exquisite, and there’s a fabulous bistro on the top floor with a beautiful view of the Bighorn Mountains. We spent most of a day leisurely exploring the museum, touring Brinton’s ranch house, and enjoying lunch at the Bistro. About that lunch: the Bistro focuses on locally sourced foods, including local meats. Why in the world I ordered ahi—in Wyoming—I’m not exactly sure. It was delicious. But I had a serious case of order envy when Eric’s lunch arrived.

The historic Brinton Ranch House

Lunch at the Brinton Bistro on the top floor of the museum

My ahi was excellent, but Eric definitely made the best choice with local pastured grilled ribs, potato salad, coleslaw, and house pickled vegetables

About The RV Park

Driving along the highway near Sheridan returning from our hike, I looked down at an RV park below the road and said to Eric, “That’s exactly the kind of place I wouldn’t want to stay.” And then I spotted our trailer.

Yes, Peter D’s RV Park is just below the highway. And no, it doesn’t have any trees to speak of. But honestly, it’s a great place to stay in Sheridan. It’s surprisingly quiet and the owners are fastidious about their park. They grow a vegetable garden in the center of the park and gave us fresh salad greens when we arrived. Full hookups, exceptionally clean bathhouses and laundry, free wifi, and good Verizon.

On To Cody, Wyoming

The West seems to breed bigger than life characters, and there was perhaps no one with a more colorful persona than William Cody, the town’s founder and namesake. You might know him better as Buffalo Bill.

Our stop in Cody was specifically to visit the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, an affiliate of the Smithsonian (some people call it the Smithsonian of the West).

The museum is actually several museums in one: a Natural History Museum, Museum of the Plains Indians, Western Art Museum, Firearms Museum, and of course, a Buffalo Bill Museum. Our favorites, by far, were the Museum of the Plains Indians and the Draper Museum of Natural History, which focuses on Yellowstone’s ecosystems.

We had hopes of seeing moose in Yellowstone, but this was the closest we came

The raptor education program; showing how the Great Horned Owl blends in with tree bark

A Short-eared Owl named Amelia

Plains Indian tipi

Grizzly bear claw necklace

Moccasins from the 1800s decorated with dyed porcupine quills

About The Campground

Buffalo Bill State Park is beautiful. We scored a waterfront site in the North Shore campground with electric and water hookups (book early for these). The campground is conveniently located right off the highway but is quiet, peaceful, and dark, and it’s only a 10-minute drive into Cody. Verizon coverage is good.

Buffalo Bill State Park, site#2

Next Up: Return To Yellowstone!

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Categories : Travel, Wyoming
Tags : Brinton Bistro, Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Buffalo Bill State Park, Peter D's RV Park, Sheridan Wyoming, The Brinton Museum, Tongue River Canyon Trail
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Comments

  1. Sheila Simpson-Creps says:
    December 7, 2018 at 1:06 pm

    Loved that short-eared owl. You always make each place seem special and unique. The moccasins look practically brand new. Does the museum tell you if they were worn for ceremonial purposes, or for everyday?

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 8, 2018 at 7:33 am

      Sheila, we’ve found so much beauty in this country and so many interesting things to do everywhere we go. I didn’t realize just how unique each place is until we started this meandering journey. It’s what keeps us traveling!
      That’s a good question about the moccasins. I’m assuming they were mostly for ceremonial purposes, given the perfect condition.

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  2. Ingrid says:
    December 7, 2018 at 4:27 pm

    It’s always fun stumbling upon a town that surpasses our expectations. WY is such a great state to meander around.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 8, 2018 at 7:34 am

      Wyoming is truly beautiful, Ingrid. It’s on our must-return-to list!

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  3. Sue says:
    December 7, 2018 at 4:59 pm

    Clearly we haven’t spent enough time in Wyoming! We went through those towns many years ago, many years…..it’s time to revisit.

    Much as we’d like to know where you are, right now, I truly enjoy these retro posts. Favorite pictures – the Lazuli Bunting, Eric’s oh so “well….I told you so” face at the restaurant, and Amelia.

    Thanks for the campground recommendations.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 8, 2018 at 7:41 am

      I’m glad you’re enjoying our “retro posts,” Sue. I really do plan to get caught up closer to “real time” in the near future. :-)
      We plan to devote more time to Wyoming, as well. If you go to Sheridan, I know you would love the Brinton Museum and the Bistro! As for Amelia, she was my favorite of the birds in the raptor program at the Buffalo Bill Museum. She was small, but had such presence!

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  4. Bob Harris says:
    December 7, 2018 at 6:10 pm

    Always enjoy your travels and pictures…
    We went to Las Vegas for 5 days….Day time we drove and I walked/hiked/climbed all over and around
    Valley of Fire, 50 miles NE of Las Vegas……Then donated money in the evening! Ha Ha
    I used 2 memory cards in my camera….

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 8, 2018 at 7:45 am

      Bob, we’re heading for Valley of Fire in a couple of days and are excited about the hiking and photography possibilities! Two memory cards—wow!!
      LOL that you “donated” money in Las Vegas. :-)

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  5. Pamela Wright says:
    December 7, 2018 at 7:42 pm

    This is an interesting area. We stayed down the road in Buffalo for a month. We had lots of fun hiking in the Bighorns. We made the trip to Sheridan several times. They had the closest Starbucks:) Make sure you visit the Medicine Circle between Sheridan and Buffalo.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 8, 2018 at 7:47 am

      Pam, a month in Wyoming would be wonderful! We had Medicine Circle on our list of things to do, but it was further than we wanted to drive from Sheridan, so we’re saving it for next time.

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  6. Penny Tremble says:
    December 8, 2018 at 7:05 am

    Beautiful and fascinating have only been in one corner of Wyoming. I didn’t realize that you would be in Sheridan. I bet Eric did not know that he has a first cousin who lives there? I could have sent her info to you. Oh well maybe if you return to the
    area. Would love to see it myself.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 8, 2018 at 7:52 am

      Penny, this is such a beautiful and interesting area—you and Tom would enjoy it, for sure. We would love to return to Sheridan, and next time, we’ll be sure to plan a family visit! You could meet us there. :-))

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  7. Laura says:
    December 8, 2018 at 9:40 pm

    1) Your photo of Amelia is stunning! 2) We only got to see a tiny bit of Wyoming when we visited a tiny corner of Yellowstone, but we’ve heard wonderful things and this post is giving us even more reasons to look forward to a return visit. It’s great that you’ve found so many diversion-worthy towns and sites to check out; 3) Ahi in Wyoming? Really??? #rookiemistake

    :)

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 10, 2018 at 11:03 am

      Haha, definitely a rookie mistake! Fortunately the ahi really was delicious. We plan to return to Wyoming for more exploring—heck, we’d even return to the Brinton! You and Kevin would enjoy Sheridan, Laura (if you go to the Brinton Bistro, you know what to order).
      I wanted to bring Amelia home to add to my (pretend) menagerie that includes a baby goat and a burro. I bought a bookmark with her photo on it. :-))

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  8. Sherry says:
    December 9, 2018 at 6:09 am

    What a wonderful picture of Eric heading into Tongue River Canyon. Looks like a beautiful hike. And an amazing shot of that gorgeous Lazuli bunting. What a find! As is the museum. A place I would love. So glad to hear the tribes whose artifacts these are approve. And a bistro to boot. No need to try and see it all before lunch. You do find the greatest places including an RV park with a vegetable garden and the gift of greens. Makes me smile. Your two choices to visit at Buffalo Bill would have been mine too. Great minds and all that. Nice job of booking early for a sweet campsite in the state park.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 10, 2018 at 11:12 am

      Sherry, the Tongue River Canyon hike was gorgeous! That sweet Lazuli Bunting was so beautiful and so happy singing in the canyon. I know you would enjoy the Brinton—as you said, I was happy to know that the tribes have given the museum their blessing (and they’re involved in the museum). Don’t miss it, if you get the chance.

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  9. Jodee Gravel says:
    December 9, 2018 at 11:39 am

    We loved all of our time in Wyoming, but missed both Sheridan and Buffalo so we’re looking forward to getting back there. The Brinton will be o the top of the list!! There was an eagle in the raptor area being rehabbed, but your owls are even more beautiful. Those eyes!! I love your Sheridan park with the open skies and sweet garden.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 10, 2018 at 11:23 am

      Jodee, you and Bill will really like Sheridan! And I know you’ll love the Brinton. There’s so much more there that I didn’t write about—the beautiful ranch house and the grounds. You can easily spend most of a day there. Downtown Sheridan is cool, too. I want to go back. :-)

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  10. MonaLiza says:
    December 9, 2018 at 1:59 pm

    How did we miss Sheridan? I agree with you sometimes these dots along the way has gems for us to discover. But you do need to revisit Cody or WY, still so many places to see and things to do. And I will ask the same question too why AHI when you are in beef country?
    We also enjoyed and was impressed with the Smithsonian of the West.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 10, 2018 at 11:29 am

      Wyoming is definitely on our list for more exploring, ML. I’ll have to check your blog to see where else you’ve been! We got just enough of a taste with Devils Tower, Sheridan, and Cody to make us want to return. Next time at the Brinton Bistro I’ll get the ribs. :-)

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  11. Green Global Trek says:
    December 10, 2018 at 2:09 am

    What a wonderful find on so many different levels. You guys are good at this!! I love the simple architecture, the modern sculpture, and the trail. What a gorgeous photo of the bunting.

    Magnificent owl. Just wonderful. Thanks for taking us on this little trip with you… As always such a comprehensive post with great writing and good photos.

    Peta

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 10, 2018 at 6:13 pm

      Thank you so much, Peta. We love this way of traveling and the opportunity it gives us for discovering so many gems along the way. I know you understand—I think we share a similar approach to travel, although your adventures are in much more exotic locales!

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  12. Allison says:
    December 11, 2018 at 10:09 am

    Who knew Sheridan would be so good? We drove by it and stopped at a scenic overlook on I-90 but that was it. We were on a mission to be somewhere else and were time critical. I think we need to go back!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 12, 2018 at 7:41 am

      Allison, Sheridan was a surprise for us, as well! It’s a pretty and interesting town, and the hiking nearby is superb.

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  13. Debbie says:
    December 13, 2018 at 6:50 am

    We could go for a place that provides salad on check in.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 13, 2018 at 5:12 pm

      Debbie, it’s a nice RV park, should you find yourself in Sheridan. I think the owners make it a habit to gift their patrons with homegrown veggies.

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  14. LuAnn says:
    December 13, 2018 at 7:39 am

    I loved your visit to Sheridan as this is a town we have not explored. Montana and Wyoming hold a special place in our hearts. If winter was not such a prominent season, we might consider living in one of these states. I had to laugh about your lunch as those two plates could easily have been sitting in front of Terry and me, me with the tuna and Terry with the ribs. The Buffalo Bill Center of the West is fascinating, isn’t it? I would have loved to see that beautiful owl, Amelia. Looking forward to your visit to Yellowstone, where we should have been this past summer.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 13, 2018 at 5:17 pm

      LuAnn, we feel exactly the same! If the winters weren’t so intense and long we would consider living in Wyoming or Montana. As you know, we love Yellowstone! We were disappointed that you weren’t there, though.
      It doesn’t surprise me that we would have made the same lunch choices. :-)

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  15. Henry says:
    December 13, 2018 at 10:07 am

    Just now catching up on you guys. These last few posts on South Dakota and Wyoming has about given me enough info to fill a summer of new places to go. We haven’t been to South Dakota and Wyoming we’ve mostly spent time in the Tetons and Yellowstone (Both of which we could never get tired of). Great info and photos as always!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 13, 2018 at 5:20 pm

      Henry, you and Loretta will love South Dakota and Wyoming! We still need to get to the Tetons—and we’ll never tire of Yellowstone, either.
      By the way, when you go to Sheridan, check out the Black Tooth Brewery. It’s excellent! So happy that our blog is helpful for you.

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  16. Brenda Hammers says:
    December 20, 2018 at 8:32 pm

    Yep, have to put Wyoming on our bucket list.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      December 21, 2018 at 8:38 am

      Absolutely!! We can meet up there!

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Eric and Laurel

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