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 March 17, 2019

Beautiful And Desolate Death Valley National Park

A dozen years ago, we drove through Death Valley National Park on our way to somewhere else. We were pulling our little Bigfoot trailer (our previous rig), and when we finally made it across the park, Eric said, “I am never doing that again.” The unrelenting steep grades, sharp curves, and the rollercoaster two-lane road made for a hair-raising experience with a trailer in tow.

It took some sweet-talking from me and a few years to convince Eric that we really needed to give Death Valley another chance. In December, he reluctantly agreed. It helped a lot that he figured out a route this time that was less wearing on our brakes and our nervous systems.

Coming into Death Valley on Highway 190
Coming into Death Valley on Highway 190
Rollercoaster ride into the park
Rollercoaster ride into the park

Although we still had some curvy, steep, and rollercoaster roads to deal with, we found it much less stressful coming in from the south on Highway 178 and then picking up Highway 190 east into the park. That route avoids the worst of 190 (that was the drive that made Eric boycott Death Valley for so many years).

A Place Of Extremes

December is a perfect time to visit Death Valley National Park. The temperatures are just right for hiking, and the angle of the sun in winter illuminates the colors of the landscape. This is a place of extremes—it’s the hottest place in the world (the highest recorded temperature is 134 degrees) and the driest place in North America. Just sitting in the shade in the summer doing nothing you’ll lose two gallons of water in a day. The national park is diligent about warning visitors of the dangers, including posting visual aids in every restroom for monitoring the color of your pee (dark yellow means you’d better drink more water).

A note about visiting the park in December: Go before Christmas break, and you’ll avoid the hordes that descend on the park from late December through March.

Hottest, driest, and lowest
Hottest, driest, and lowest
Monitoring dehydration
Monitoring dehydration

December in Death Valley at noon

Along with winning the prize for hottest, driest, and lowest, Death Valley is enormous. At over 3 million acres, it’s the largest national park in the contiguous U.S. Once a warm inland sea and sculpted over the eons by earthquakes, volcanoes, and floods, Death Valley is a surreal landscape of unique beauty. Yes, it is desolate. But there’s something peaceful and soul-nourishing about the expansive vistas of softly folded mountains, carved canyons, shifting dunes, and crystalline salt flats.

Unexpected colors in a desolate landscape

We set up camp at the Furnace Creek Campground and focused our explorations in the southern region of the park. This is where most of the don’t-miss attractions are concentrated, and there was plenty to keep us occupied for four days. We’ll return another time to explore the northern half of the park and to visit Scotty’s Castle and Mosaic Canyon, both of which were closed while we were there.

Zabriskie Point

Zabriskie Point is the place to go for a spectacular panoramic view. And it’s the starting point for several trails, including a 2.5-mile loop hike into the beauty of the badlands.

Waiting for sunrise at Zabriskie Point

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Zabriski Point before sunrise on a very chilly morning
Zabriski Point before sunrise on a very chilly morning
Zabriskie Point Trailhead
Zabriskie Point Trailhead
Desolate but beautiful hiking
Desolate but beautiful hiking
Heading down into the Badlands of Death Valley
Heading down into the Badlands of Death Valley

Golden Canyon Hike

The Golden Canyon hike is one of the most popular in the park. We started with a ranger-led one-mile ramble that focused on the history and geology of the area and continued on our own for a gorgeous 4-mile loop hike that combined Golden Canyon and Gower Gulch. There’s a steep climb up to Manly Beacon before dropping down into Gower Gulch—it’s worth the effort.

It’s a steep hike up to Manly Beacon

Click on any photo for a larger image

There used to be a road through Golden Canyon
There used to be a road through Golden Canyon
Golden Canyon and Red Rock Cathedral
Golden Canyon and Red Rock Cathedral
Parched earth
Parched earth
Hiking the Golden Canyon Trail
Hiking the Golden Canyon Trail
Heading down into Gower Gulch
Heading down into Gower Gulch
Go that way...
Go that way…

Badwater Basin

The lowest point in North America, Badwater Basin is 282 feet below sea level and is one of the most photogenic places in Death Valley. It doesn’t look like much from the road, but we walked a half-mile beyond the short boardwalk trail and were rewarded with a moonscape of expansive salt flats.

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Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America
Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America
Badwater Basin
Badwater Basin
Salt flats at Badwater Basin
Salt flats at Badwater Basin
The salt flats are surreal and beautiful
The salt flats are surreal and beautiful

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Sculpted anew by winds every day, there are no defined trails in Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. A mile of hiking (which is more than plenty in soft sand) took us into the middle of the highest dunes.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, late afternoon

Hoping for sunset at the sand dunes
Hoping for sunset at the sand dunes
Late afternoon in the sand dunes
Late afternoon in the sand dunes

Harmony Borax Works & Salt Creek Interpretive Trail

Harmony Borax Works is a relic of the mining industry in Death Valley. Double teams of mules hauled borax processed here across the desert to a train depot 165 miles away (this gave rise to the “20-Mule Team Borax” slogan in 1891). When a steam engine brought in to replace the mules broke down, the mule team dragged the engine out of the valley. :-)

Harmony Borax Works Interpretive Site
Harmony Borax Works Interpretive Site
Nearby Salt Creek Interpretive Trail
Nearby Salt Creek Interpretive Trail

Artist’s Drive & Artist’s Palette

Artist’s Drive showcases some of the most vibrant colors in Death Valley. And it’s a fun drive (without a trailer, of course). The 9-mile one-way road dips and winds through a landscape of yellows, reds, greens, blues, and purples created by oxidized minerals. We drove the road two different times and found that the late afternoon sun best highlights the colorful rock formations.

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On the way to Artist's Drive
On the way to Artist’s Drive
Artist's Drive: A one-way fun ride
Artist’s Drive: A one-way fun ride
Unexpected beauty in Death Valley
Unexpected beauty in Death Valley
Beautiful hues of Artist's Palette
Beautiful hues of Artist’s Palette

Furnace Creek Inn & Campground

The elegant Furnace Creek Inn was built in 1927 by the Pacific Borax Company to attract tourists to Death Valley when the mining industry waned. It’s a gorgeous palm tree studded oasis in the desert and just a mile from Furnace Creek Campground. We enjoyed a delicious and relaxing lunch on the terrace—such a treat in the middle of nowhere!

Speaking of campgrounds, the Furnace Creek Campground offers a range of no-hookup to full hookup sites, some of which have front-row views of the Panamint Mountains. It’s a short walk to the excellent visitor center and a good location for the attractions at the south end of the park.

Click on any photo for a larger image

Furnace Creek Inn
Furnace Creek Inn
Lunch at Furnace Creek Inn (yummy fish tacos)
Lunch at Furnace Creek Inn (yummy fish tacos)
Furnace Creek Campground
Furnace Creek Campground

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

Leaving Death Valley, we stopped for a couple of nights just outside of the park to visit Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, which we first heard about from our friends Lisa and Hans of Metamorphosis Road. This is one of the most beautiful wildlife refuges we’ve seen in our travels, with boardwalks snaking through a landscape of golden grasslands leading to turquoise warm springs that sparkle like little jewels in the desert landscape.

Beautiful colors at the refuge

The land was rescued from developers who planned to turn it into another Las Vegas. It’s now a refuge for migratory birds and endemic species found nowhere else (including a weird little water bug related to bed bugs). I guess everything has an important role in the web of life, right? We stayed at a casino campground just a couple of miles away with water and electric hookups—basically a big parking lot, but the sites closest to the mountains have an excellent view.

Click on any photo for a larger image

Boardwalk at the refuge
Boardwalk at the refuge
Ash Meadows Wildlife Refuge
Ash Meadows Wildlife Refuge
American Avocet
American Avocet
The warm spring ponds are stunning
The warm spring ponds are stunning
Longstreet Casino RV Park
Longstreet Casino RV Park

One More Thing: A Quirky Hot Spring Stop

Many years ago, we discovered Delight’s Hot Spring Resort, a funky little hot spring in the wide-spot in the road known as Tecopa. There is absolutely nothing fancy or resort-like about this place. But we had a site with a wonderful view, and the private hot pools are clean and filled with naturally flowing hot mineral water that bubbles up from the desert. Delight’s is just as quirky as we remembered, with the addition of some really tacky statuary and a fantastic microbrewery walking distance from the campground. Soaking in a hot pool under the stars on a chilly December evening—yeah, that was good.

China Ranch Date Farm is nearby and makes for an interesting day trip to a working date ranch and all the dates you care to taste from at least a dozen varieties.

On the road to Delight’s Hot Springs

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Delight's Hot Springs Resort
Delight’s Hot Springs Resort
Not sure it could be any tackier...
Not sure it could be any tackier…
China Date Ranch
China Date Ranch
Date palms with ripening dates
Date palms with ripening dates
Hiking the trails at China Ranch
Hiking the trails at China Ranch
RV site at Delight's Hot Springs
RV site at Delight’s Hot Springs

Next Up: Enchanting Valley Of Fire State Park: Nevada

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Categories : California, National Parks, Travel
Tags : Ash Meadows Wildlife Refuge, Badwater Basin, China Date Ranch, Death Valley National Park, Delight's Hot Springs, Furnace Creek Campground, Furnace Creek Inn, Golden Canyon Hike, Zabriskie Point
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Comments

  1. Green Global Trek says:
    March 17, 2019 at 10:25 am

    I am totally blown away by this post! The photographs are absolutely magnificent, but especially the ones of you on the salt flats. Such an eerie wonderous landscape. It reminds me of Etosha Pan in Namibia, in Africa. I also just love the photos of Ash Meadows Wildlife refuge ~ the bright blue spring ponds and the description of the birds. So wonderful that this area was saved from developers and has become a refuge for migratory birds.

    I also love the combination of landscapes from stark white, to all those colors… to a date farm of all things. Yum!

    Absolutely terrific post!

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    • Bob Harris says:
      March 17, 2019 at 2:28 pm

      Love Death Valley and Around…..
      Go there 1 or 2 times each year……
      Is Scotty’s Castle still closed? ? ?

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      • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
        March 18, 2019 at 5:55 am

        Bob, Scotty’s Castle is still closed for repairs after the flood a couple of years ago. We would love to return when it reopens!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 5:54 am

      Thanks so much, Peta. It really is a fabulous landscape, and although desolate, absolutely beautiful. Although I wouldn’t want to be there in summer. :-)
      Ash Meadows is a wonderful surprise in the desert, too. And the date farm!

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  2. Julie says:
    March 17, 2019 at 10:49 am

    Oh, that is beautiful, ,love the colors, we did it in Sept., definitely a return.

    Thought of you in Caye Caulker, off the coast of Belize by a 25 min. Water taxi, lovely little shops, eateries and beer. Overlooking the turquoise water. Between our travels and yours we are covering the country and south. Amazing journey and people we find along the way….can’t wait for your visit here…

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 5:56 am

      I would imagine Death Valley would be hot in September! Your adventures in Belize sound fantastic, Julie. We’re looking forward to seeing you two in April and catching up!

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  3. Ann Palmer says:
    March 17, 2019 at 11:02 am

    Death Valley has always fascinated me. I went there for the first time with my sister in 1972 when we lived in LA. It was a quick trip, but the images of the rocks and colors stayed with me. I made it back for the first time 40 years later in 2011 and spent 3 days exploring on my way to visit dear friends in Texas. Then again in 2015 I spent over a week there with my Escapees SOLOS friends for an event known as the 49ers Encampment held every November. With a friend in a 4wd Jeep we explored places I had never been to before like Titus Canyon. Your photos are beautiful and trigger wonderful memories. I’m sure I’ll go back again…

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 7:09 am

      It sounds like you’ve had many wonderful experiences in Death Valley, Ann. It’s a place we’d like to return to—Titus Canyon is on our list! Thanks for the suggestion. :-)

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  4. Laura says:
    March 17, 2019 at 12:15 pm

    Wow. Your photos are wonderful! I always think of Death Valley as flat and brown (along with Badwater Basin, which I’d seen photos of). Shows you what I know! So many colors and textures to take in! I can certainly see where it’s the type of place that changes throughout the day as the sun moves across the sky.

    We’ve been near the park once or twice, but never had time to go explore. Now I see that it should be a priority – though I guess there’s likely a large portion of the year when visiting would be a bad idea. How long were you there?

    I also love the photos from the wildlife refuge. What a beautiful place, and to think, it could have been another Vegas… Wow. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve heard that about some place or another “this plot of land was almost developed or destroyed, but some group stepped in to save it….” Thanks heavens for forward thinking people!

    Great post!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 7:13 am

      Thanks, Laura—Death Valley is a fun place for photography! The colors and textures change constantly with the shifting light and shadows.
      We were there five nights and it gave us plenty of time to explore the south end of the park. But we would have been happy to stay a week, and then to also spend a few days at the north end of the park. I think you’ll love it!

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  5. Shannon says:
    March 17, 2019 at 12:25 pm

    I can’t believe you came into Death Valley through 190 the first time — we did 178 to 190 and even that route had us riding the brakes way too much for our comfort. When you return to visit the northern section, don’t miss Ubehebe Crater. It was was one of our favorite spots in Death Valley.

    I wish I had known about the hot springs sooner! Despite the tackiness (or maybe because of it??) that sounds like a perfect stop after the dryness and desolation of Death Valley.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:25 pm

      Shannon, you know exactly what I’m talking about with that crazy road! Definitely stressful.
      I really, really wanted to go to Ubehebe Crater but it was more driving than we wanted to do. Next time, for sure! And I’m sorry I didn’t get this post done a lot sooner so that you would have known about the hot springs before your trip there. :-(

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  6. Sue MacDonell says:
    March 17, 2019 at 12:25 pm

    Always fun to share your adventures! Thanks for taking the time to show us the world through your very artistic eyes.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:27 pm

      Thanks so much, Sue. I always love hearing from you and knowing that you’re still accompanying us on our adventures!
      Hope all is well in Ashland. oxox

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  7. Ingrid says:
    March 17, 2019 at 1:02 pm

    We’ve only been to Death Valley once, but it left an indelible impression upon me. I loved it and would enjoy revisit. Thanks for taking me back!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:27 pm

      I can understand why you want to return, Ingrid. Death Valley is a special place, indeed. It’s such an extraordinary place for photography, as you know!

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  8. Marsha K Weaver says:
    March 17, 2019 at 3:38 pm

    You brought back so many fabulous memories. Your photos of Artist’s Drive is exactly how I remember it. Gorgeous. So many people do not understand that Death Valley is so much more than a big white desert. I wish everyone could visit just once and experience the magnitude of the area. Wonderful post.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:46 pm

      I think you’re right, Marsha—so many people think Death Valley is just a big boring desert. That’s what I thought until we spent time there. :-)
      I’m so glad our photos captured what you remembered. It’s a fabulous landscape, and we want to return to see more!

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  9. Jodee Gravel says:
    March 17, 2019 at 5:01 pm

    I’m so sad we missed Badwater Basin and don’t even remember why. But we’re happy to have a reason to go back as it is one of the most beautiful places ever! I’m so glad you visited Ash Meadows – I’m really impressed with the conservation success and the obvious pride shown in their efforts. Your photos are absolutely stunning!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:50 pm

      Jodee, I’m so glad you enjoyed our photos! You really must return to Death Valley to see Badwater Basin. It’s just the kind of magical landscape you appreciate.
      We’re so happy we visited Ash Meadows, too—Lisa had written about it and I’d made a note of it, and then your recommendation sealed the deal!

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  10. Brenda Hammers says:
    March 17, 2019 at 7:14 pm

    Wow! I had no idea there was so much to see in Death Valley. The pics of you on the salt flats are truly amazing! Think I’ll throw that on my bucket list too.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:52 pm

      I thought those salt flats were amazing, too! Definitely put Death Valley on your list, Brenda. It would make a perfect winter getaway for you and Morey. :-)

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  11. Erin says:
    March 17, 2019 at 8:21 pm

    Gorgeous photos of Death Valley. I tried to convince Mui to drive through Death Valley last year on our trek up to the PacNW … but he vetoed the idea as he wanted to get up north to WA state sooner rather than later. It probably would have been too hot anyway. Maybe now that we’re settled in the west we will finally manage a trip out there … and between Thanksgiving and Christmas would be perfect. We often find those 4-5 weeks to offer crowd-free sightseeing just about anywhere.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 2:59 pm

      Erin, we’ve also found that the weeks between Thanksgiving and Christmas are a perfect time to enjoy popular places without crowds. We’ve had the same experience in the Florida Keys and on Sanibel Island. It was so nice to be in Death Valley and to have the trails mostly to ourselves!
      I’m so glad you enjoyed our photos—it is a truly spectacular landscape.

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  12. Joodie says:
    March 18, 2019 at 6:18 am

    You little sweet-talker, you! Judging from the photos of the park to the hot springs “observatory,” Eric is a wise man to have acquiesced. We have not yet been to Death Valley, but this post is now our perfect itinerary for when we do!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 3:03 pm

      Haha, I can almost always convince him, Joodie! Once we were in the park, Eric was really happy that we decided to go there.
      You guys are going to love Death Valley! Just be sure to go in winter.

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  13. Metamorphosis Lisa says:
    March 18, 2019 at 6:37 am

    I haven’t been to Death Valley since I was a kid, your photos make me want to return!

    I’m glad you got to check out Ash Meadows, it’s such an unexpected surprise in the middle of the desert!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 3:06 pm

      Lisa, I’m so happy that you wrote about Ash Meadows. It is such a beautiful refuge! Death Valley NP is definitely worth a visit. Maybe sometime if you need a break from winter in Prescott?

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  14. Sue Malone says:
    March 18, 2019 at 8:43 am

    Death Valley is such a treasure, and we have visited several times in most areas of the park, but never been in December. It was 105 one year we were there in late April. And we always unhook when heading toward Bishop on that road you mentioned. Kind of hard to do with a trailer I guess so avoiding is smart! But I love that road.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 3:09 pm

      Sue, I can’t imagine being in Death Valley in 105-degree temps. We were really happy with hiking temperatures in the low 60’s!
      I remember that stretch of 190 from Lone Pine is really beautiful, but also really treacherous pulling a trailer. We don’t have the option of unhooking, LOL!

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  15. MonaLiza says:
    March 18, 2019 at 12:15 pm

    Betsy had been on that road you tried to avoid. We did not know any better then coming from Lone Pine CA . And boy, Betsy’s brakes was on fire when we arrived at Furnace Creek. We too find DVNPS a fascinating place, Steve flew there while we were still working and drove there coming from LV and finally with Betsy for a week stay. So much to see and explore that we even rented a jeep to see La Playa a horrendous rough drive but so worth it!
    I even smiled when I read about Tecopa for we also stopped there for three days and hiked behind China Ranch and yes it was also a fascinating hike.You took me back on our 2013 days of adventure, there, Thank you!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 3:24 pm

      MonaLiza, I cannot imagine you guys driving Betsy on 190 from Lone Pine to Death Valley! It was bad enough pulling our little 21-foot trailer that we had at the time.

      So cool that you know about the hot springs! We first discovered Tecopa and China Ranch about 15 years ago on a trip where we stayed in a B & B at China Ranch. Such an interesting area!

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  16. Andy Prescott says:
    March 18, 2019 at 5:53 pm

    The storm that took out the visitors center at Scotty’s Castle, gave birth to a Super Bloom in the valley the following February. We were lucky enough to be there to see it. Imagine all of that desolation covered in wildflowers! We love Death Valley!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 18, 2019 at 6:46 pm

      Andy, it must have been fantastic to see Death Valley during the super bloom! How lucky you were to be there at the perfect time.
      It’s great to hear from you!

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  17. Pamela Wright says:
    March 18, 2019 at 8:59 pm

    You’ve brought back so many wonderful memories of Death Valley NP. I’ve always wanted to visit but John didn’t think there would be anything to see. Boy was he surprised! The colors and variety in the landscape is unbelievable. We had an amazing week there. We loved hiking Zebriski Point Trail. We will most definitely need to make a trip back.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 19, 2019 at 8:23 pm

      Pam, the guys should always listen to us, LOL!! Maybe we can coordinate our travels to meet up in Death Valley for more exploring. It would be so much fun with you two!

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      • Pamela Wright says:
        March 23, 2019 at 8:59 pm

        Yes, meeting and hiking Death Valley together would be awesome!!

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        • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
          March 26, 2019 at 6:57 am

          Okay, it’s on our list!! :-))

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  18. Denise says:
    March 20, 2019 at 7:16 am

    Love your blog, thanks for doing it. Before we retired to full-time RV I had the time and data/bandwidth to follow lots of blogs. Now that we retired and travel I don’t but I still follow yours. So much good information and most of what you mention gets added to my “to do” list. The photos are spectacular!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 20, 2019 at 7:23 am

      Denise, thank you so much for taking the time to let me know that you’re enjoying our blog. I’m glad you like the photos and that the information is helpful for you. Wishing you wonderful travels! :-)

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  19. Diana says:
    March 20, 2019 at 6:13 pm

    Ahhh such beautiful photos…we loved the hot springs and date oasis! John brought Spam and we were the envy of the campground I’m sure. Miss your humor but love sharing the adventures via blog! Tried to call you recently just to check in…thinking of you!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 22, 2019 at 7:27 pm

      Haha, I do believe you and John found your tribe at the hot springs! Miss you fiercely! oxox

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  20. LuAnn says:
    March 21, 2019 at 7:28 am

    I still can’t believe that we live in California and have yet to visit Death Valley NP. We may need to rectify that this December when we return from Europe. I have pinned this post. Love your photos! Hope you and Eric are doing well.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 22, 2019 at 7:29 pm

      LuAnn, I think December is a near-perfect time to visit Death Valley. You will love the photography and hiking there. Can’t wait to hear about your adventures in Europe!

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  21. Sue says:
    March 21, 2019 at 5:12 pm

    we’ve always gone around it and the one time we did even dare to enter was from Lone Pine and that drive in really gave me the willys. I’m still so very interested spending a week exploring the area but it’s so hard to get one of the 8 hook up spots in the park! I’m still trying but your caveat to go before Christmas has me thinking about our scheduling next year. I was looking at end of March, but I gather that will either be mobbed with “others” or very hot.

    Thanks for the fantastic pictures!

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 22, 2019 at 7:33 pm

      Sue, there are quite a few water and electric sites at Furnace Creek CG—but you still need to reserve far ahead! I believe you’re right, March will be too hot AND there will be too many people. I vote for December. :-)

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  22. Debbie and Mike says:
    March 23, 2019 at 7:45 pm

    We were disappointed to cancel our reservations in Death Valley because of all of the inclement weather we were experiencing. It looks like we do need to make another effort in the future. It is good to know about those winding roads when making plans. You have some great pictures.

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    • Laurel (AKA chickadee) says:
      March 26, 2019 at 6:55 am

      Debbie, you two will really enjoy Death Valley. Bummer that you had to cancel your reservations, but keep it on your list! Just don’t come in from Lone Pine. :-)

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Eric and Laurel

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