It took some sweet-talking from me and a few years to convince Eric that we really needed to give Death Valley another chance. In December, he reluctantly agreed. It helped a lot that he figured out a route this time that was less wearing on our brakes and our nervous systems.
Although we still had some curvy, steep, and rollercoaster roads to deal with, we found it much less stressful coming in from the south on Highway 178 and then picking up Highway 190 east into the park. That route avoids the worst of 190 (that was the drive that made Eric boycott Death Valley for so many years).
A Place Of Extremes
December is a perfect time to visit Death Valley National Park. The temperatures are just right for hiking, and the angle of the sun in winter illuminates the colors of the landscape. This is a place of extremes—it’s the hottest place in the world (the highest recorded temperature is 134 degrees) and the driest place in North America. Just sitting in the shade in the summer doing nothing you’ll lose two gallons of water in a day. The national park is diligent about warning visitors of the dangers, including posting visual aids in every restroom for monitoring the color of your pee (dark yellow means you’d better drink more water).
A note about visiting the park in December: Go before Christmas break, and you’ll avoid the hordes that descend on the park from late December through March.
December in Death Valley at noon
Along with winning the prize for hottest, driest, and lowest, Death Valley is enormous. At over 3 million acres, it’s the largest national park in the contiguous U.S. Once a warm inland sea and sculpted over the eons by earthquakes, volcanoes, and floods, Death Valley is a surreal landscape of unique beauty. Yes, it is desolate. But there’s something peaceful and soul-nourishing about the expansive vistas of softly folded mountains, carved canyons, shifting dunes, and crystalline salt flats.
Unexpected colors in a desolate landscape
We set up camp at the Furnace Creek Campground and focused our explorations in the southern region of the park. This is where most of the don’t-miss attractions are concentrated, and there was plenty to keep us occupied for four days. We’ll return another time to explore the northern half of the park and to visit Scotty’s Castle and Mosaic Canyon, both of which were closed while we were there.
Zabriskie Point
Zabriskie Point is the place to go for a spectacular panoramic view. And it’s the starting point for several trails, including a 2.5-mile loop hike into the beauty of the badlands.
Waiting for sunrise at Zabriskie Point
Click on any photo for a larger image
Golden Canyon Hike
The Golden Canyon hike is one of the most popular in the park. We started with a ranger-led one-mile ramble that focused on the history and geology of the area and continued on our own for a gorgeous 4-mile loop hike that combined Golden Canyon and Gower Gulch. There’s a steep climb up to Manly Beacon before dropping down into Gower Gulch—it’s worth the effort.
It’s a steep hike up to Manly Beacon
Click on any photo for a larger image
Badwater Basin
The lowest point in North America, Badwater Basin is 282 feet below sea level and is one of the most photogenic places in Death Valley. It doesn’t look like much from the road, but we walked a half-mile beyond the short boardwalk trail and were rewarded with a moonscape of expansive salt flats.
Click on any photo for a larger image
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes
Sculpted anew by winds every day, there are no defined trails in Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. A mile of hiking (which is more than plenty in soft sand) took us into the middle of the highest dunes.
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, late afternoon
Harmony Borax Works & Salt Creek Interpretive Trail
Harmony Borax Works is a relic of the mining industry in Death Valley. Double teams of mules hauled borax processed here across the desert to a train depot 165 miles away (this gave rise to the “20-Mule Team Borax” slogan in 1891). When a steam engine brought in to replace the mules broke down, the mule team dragged the engine out of the valley. :-)
Artist’s Drive & Artist’s Palette
Artist’s Drive showcases some of the most vibrant colors in Death Valley. And it’s a fun drive (without a trailer, of course). The 9-mile one-way road dips and winds through a landscape of yellows, reds, greens, blues, and purples created by oxidized minerals. We drove the road two different times and found that the late afternoon sun best highlights the colorful rock formations.
Click on any photo for a larger image
Furnace Creek Inn & Campground
The elegant Furnace Creek Inn was built in 1927 by the Pacific Borax Company to attract tourists to Death Valley when the mining industry waned. It’s a gorgeous palm tree studded oasis in the desert and just a mile from Furnace Creek Campground. We enjoyed a delicious and relaxing lunch on the terrace—such a treat in the middle of nowhere!
Speaking of campgrounds, the Furnace Creek Campground offers a range of no-hookup to full hookup sites, some of which have front-row views of the Panamint Mountains. It’s a short walk to the excellent visitor center and a good location for the attractions at the south end of the park.
Click on any photo for a larger image
Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge
Leaving Death Valley, we stopped for a couple of nights just outside of the park to visit Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, which we first heard about from our friends Lisa and Hans of Metamorphosis Road. This is one of the most beautiful wildlife refuges we’ve seen in our travels, with boardwalks snaking through a landscape of golden grasslands leading to turquoise warm springs that sparkle like little jewels in the desert landscape.
Beautiful colors at the refuge
The land was rescued from developers who planned to turn it into another Las Vegas. It’s now a refuge for migratory birds and endemic species found nowhere else (including a weird little water bug related to bed bugs). I guess everything has an important role in the web of life, right? We stayed at a casino campground just a couple of miles away with water and electric hookups—basically a big parking lot, but the sites closest to the mountains have an excellent view.
Click on any photo for a larger image
One More Thing: A Quirky Hot Spring Stop
Many years ago, we discovered Delight’s Hot Spring Resort, a funky little hot spring in the wide-spot in the road known as Tecopa. There is absolutely nothing fancy or resort-like about this place. But we had a site with a wonderful view, and the private hot pools are clean and filled with naturally flowing hot mineral water that bubbles up from the desert. Delight’s is just as quirky as we remembered, with the addition of some really tacky statuary and a fantastic microbrewery walking distance from the campground. Soaking in a hot pool under the stars on a chilly December evening—yeah, that was good.
China Ranch Date Farm is nearby and makes for an interesting day trip to a working date ranch and all the dates you care to taste from at least a dozen varieties.
On the road to Delight’s Hot Springs
Click on any photo for a larger image
I am totally blown away by this post! The photographs are absolutely magnificent, but especially the ones of you on the salt flats. Such an eerie wonderous landscape. It reminds me of Etosha Pan in Namibia, in Africa. I also just love the photos of Ash Meadows Wildlife refuge ~ the bright blue spring ponds and the description of the birds. So wonderful that this area was saved from developers and has become a refuge for migratory birds.
I also love the combination of landscapes from stark white, to all those colors… to a date farm of all things. Yum!
Absolutely terrific post!
Love Death Valley and Around…..
Go there 1 or 2 times each year……
Is Scotty’s Castle still closed? ? ?
Bob, Scotty’s Castle is still closed for repairs after the flood a couple of years ago. We would love to return when it reopens!
Thanks so much, Peta. It really is a fabulous landscape, and although desolate, absolutely beautiful. Although I wouldn’t want to be there in summer. :-)
Ash Meadows is a wonderful surprise in the desert, too. And the date farm!
Oh, that is beautiful, ,love the colors, we did it in Sept., definitely a return.
Thought of you in Caye Caulker, off the coast of Belize by a 25 min. Water taxi, lovely little shops, eateries and beer. Overlooking the turquoise water. Between our travels and yours we are covering the country and south. Amazing journey and people we find along the way….can’t wait for your visit here…
I would imagine Death Valley would be hot in September! Your adventures in Belize sound fantastic, Julie. We’re looking forward to seeing you two in April and catching up!
Death Valley has always fascinated me. I went there for the first time with my sister in 1972 when we lived in LA. It was a quick trip, but the images of the rocks and colors stayed with me. I made it back for the first time 40 years later in 2011 and spent 3 days exploring on my way to visit dear friends in Texas. Then again in 2015 I spent over a week there with my Escapees SOLOS friends for an event known as the 49ers Encampment held every November. With a friend in a 4wd Jeep we explored places I had never been to before like Titus Canyon. Your photos are beautiful and trigger wonderful memories. I’m sure I’ll go back again…
It sounds like you’ve had many wonderful experiences in Death Valley, Ann. It’s a place we’d like to return to—Titus Canyon is on our list! Thanks for the suggestion. :-)
Wow. Your photos are wonderful! I always think of Death Valley as flat and brown (along with Badwater Basin, which I’d seen photos of). Shows you what I know! So many colors and textures to take in! I can certainly see where it’s the type of place that changes throughout the day as the sun moves across the sky.
We’ve been near the park once or twice, but never had time to go explore. Now I see that it should be a priority – though I guess there’s likely a large portion of the year when visiting would be a bad idea. How long were you there?
I also love the photos from the wildlife refuge. What a beautiful place, and to think, it could have been another Vegas… Wow. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve heard that about some place or another “this plot of land was almost developed or destroyed, but some group stepped in to save it….” Thanks heavens for forward thinking people!
Great post!
Thanks, Laura—Death Valley is a fun place for photography! The colors and textures change constantly with the shifting light and shadows.
We were there five nights and it gave us plenty of time to explore the south end of the park. But we would have been happy to stay a week, and then to also spend a few days at the north end of the park. I think you’ll love it!
I can’t believe you came into Death Valley through 190 the first time — we did 178 to 190 and even that route had us riding the brakes way too much for our comfort. When you return to visit the northern section, don’t miss Ubehebe Crater. It was was one of our favorite spots in Death Valley.
I wish I had known about the hot springs sooner! Despite the tackiness (or maybe because of it??) that sounds like a perfect stop after the dryness and desolation of Death Valley.
Shannon, you know exactly what I’m talking about with that crazy road! Definitely stressful.
I really, really wanted to go to Ubehebe Crater but it was more driving than we wanted to do. Next time, for sure! And I’m sorry I didn’t get this post done a lot sooner so that you would have known about the hot springs before your trip there. :-(
Always fun to share your adventures! Thanks for taking the time to show us the world through your very artistic eyes.
Thanks so much, Sue. I always love hearing from you and knowing that you’re still accompanying us on our adventures!
Hope all is well in Ashland. oxox
We’ve only been to Death Valley once, but it left an indelible impression upon me. I loved it and would enjoy revisit. Thanks for taking me back!
I can understand why you want to return, Ingrid. Death Valley is a special place, indeed. It’s such an extraordinary place for photography, as you know!
You brought back so many fabulous memories. Your photos of Artist’s Drive is exactly how I remember it. Gorgeous. So many people do not understand that Death Valley is so much more than a big white desert. I wish everyone could visit just once and experience the magnitude of the area. Wonderful post.
I think you’re right, Marsha—so many people think Death Valley is just a big boring desert. That’s what I thought until we spent time there. :-)
I’m so glad our photos captured what you remembered. It’s a fabulous landscape, and we want to return to see more!
I’m so sad we missed Badwater Basin and don’t even remember why. But we’re happy to have a reason to go back as it is one of the most beautiful places ever! I’m so glad you visited Ash Meadows – I’m really impressed with the conservation success and the obvious pride shown in their efforts. Your photos are absolutely stunning!
Jodee, I’m so glad you enjoyed our photos! You really must return to Death Valley to see Badwater Basin. It’s just the kind of magical landscape you appreciate.
We’re so happy we visited Ash Meadows, too—Lisa had written about it and I’d made a note of it, and then your recommendation sealed the deal!
Wow! I had no idea there was so much to see in Death Valley. The pics of you on the salt flats are truly amazing! Think I’ll throw that on my bucket list too.
I thought those salt flats were amazing, too! Definitely put Death Valley on your list, Brenda. It would make a perfect winter getaway for you and Morey. :-)
Gorgeous photos of Death Valley. I tried to convince Mui to drive through Death Valley last year on our trek up to the PacNW … but he vetoed the idea as he wanted to get up north to WA state sooner rather than later. It probably would have been too hot anyway. Maybe now that we’re settled in the west we will finally manage a trip out there … and between Thanksgiving and Christmas would be perfect. We often find those 4-5 weeks to offer crowd-free sightseeing just about anywhere.
Erin, we’ve also found that the weeks between Thanksgiving and Christmas are a perfect time to enjoy popular places without crowds. We’ve had the same experience in the Florida Keys and on Sanibel Island. It was so nice to be in Death Valley and to have the trails mostly to ourselves!
I’m so glad you enjoyed our photos—it is a truly spectacular landscape.
You little sweet-talker, you! Judging from the photos of the park to the hot springs “observatory,” Eric is a wise man to have acquiesced. We have not yet been to Death Valley, but this post is now our perfect itinerary for when we do!
Haha, I can almost always convince him, Joodie! Once we were in the park, Eric was really happy that we decided to go there.
You guys are going to love Death Valley! Just be sure to go in winter.
I haven’t been to Death Valley since I was a kid, your photos make me want to return!
I’m glad you got to check out Ash Meadows, it’s such an unexpected surprise in the middle of the desert!
Lisa, I’m so happy that you wrote about Ash Meadows. It is such a beautiful refuge! Death Valley NP is definitely worth a visit. Maybe sometime if you need a break from winter in Prescott?
Death Valley is such a treasure, and we have visited several times in most areas of the park, but never been in December. It was 105 one year we were there in late April. And we always unhook when heading toward Bishop on that road you mentioned. Kind of hard to do with a trailer I guess so avoiding is smart! But I love that road.
Sue, I can’t imagine being in Death Valley in 105-degree temps. We were really happy with hiking temperatures in the low 60’s!
I remember that stretch of 190 from Lone Pine is really beautiful, but also really treacherous pulling a trailer. We don’t have the option of unhooking, LOL!
Betsy had been on that road you tried to avoid. We did not know any better then coming from Lone Pine CA . And boy, Betsy’s brakes was on fire when we arrived at Furnace Creek. We too find DVNPS a fascinating place, Steve flew there while we were still working and drove there coming from LV and finally with Betsy for a week stay. So much to see and explore that we even rented a jeep to see La Playa a horrendous rough drive but so worth it!
I even smiled when I read about Tecopa for we also stopped there for three days and hiked behind China Ranch and yes it was also a fascinating hike.You took me back on our 2013 days of adventure, there, Thank you!
MonaLiza, I cannot imagine you guys driving Betsy on 190 from Lone Pine to Death Valley! It was bad enough pulling our little 21-foot trailer that we had at the time.
So cool that you know about the hot springs! We first discovered Tecopa and China Ranch about 15 years ago on a trip where we stayed in a B & B at China Ranch. Such an interesting area!
The storm that took out the visitors center at Scotty’s Castle, gave birth to a Super Bloom in the valley the following February. We were lucky enough to be there to see it. Imagine all of that desolation covered in wildflowers! We love Death Valley!
Andy, it must have been fantastic to see Death Valley during the super bloom! How lucky you were to be there at the perfect time.
It’s great to hear from you!
You’ve brought back so many wonderful memories of Death Valley NP. I’ve always wanted to visit but John didn’t think there would be anything to see. Boy was he surprised! The colors and variety in the landscape is unbelievable. We had an amazing week there. We loved hiking Zebriski Point Trail. We will most definitely need to make a trip back.
Pam, the guys should always listen to us, LOL!! Maybe we can coordinate our travels to meet up in Death Valley for more exploring. It would be so much fun with you two!
Yes, meeting and hiking Death Valley together would be awesome!!
Okay, it’s on our list!! :-))
Love your blog, thanks for doing it. Before we retired to full-time RV I had the time and data/bandwidth to follow lots of blogs. Now that we retired and travel I don’t but I still follow yours. So much good information and most of what you mention gets added to my “to do” list. The photos are spectacular!
Denise, thank you so much for taking the time to let me know that you’re enjoying our blog. I’m glad you like the photos and that the information is helpful for you. Wishing you wonderful travels! :-)
Ahhh such beautiful photos…we loved the hot springs and date oasis! John brought Spam and we were the envy of the campground I’m sure. Miss your humor but love sharing the adventures via blog! Tried to call you recently just to check in…thinking of you!
Haha, I do believe you and John found your tribe at the hot springs! Miss you fiercely! oxox
I still can’t believe that we live in California and have yet to visit Death Valley NP. We may need to rectify that this December when we return from Europe. I have pinned this post. Love your photos! Hope you and Eric are doing well.
LuAnn, I think December is a near-perfect time to visit Death Valley. You will love the photography and hiking there. Can’t wait to hear about your adventures in Europe!
we’ve always gone around it and the one time we did even dare to enter was from Lone Pine and that drive in really gave me the willys. I’m still so very interested spending a week exploring the area but it’s so hard to get one of the 8 hook up spots in the park! I’m still trying but your caveat to go before Christmas has me thinking about our scheduling next year. I was looking at end of March, but I gather that will either be mobbed with “others” or very hot.
Thanks for the fantastic pictures!
Sue, there are quite a few water and electric sites at Furnace Creek CG—but you still need to reserve far ahead! I believe you’re right, March will be too hot AND there will be too many people. I vote for December. :-)
We were disappointed to cancel our reservations in Death Valley because of all of the inclement weather we were experiencing. It looks like we do need to make another effort in the future. It is good to know about those winding roads when making plans. You have some great pictures.
Debbie, you two will really enjoy Death Valley. Bummer that you had to cancel your reservations, but keep it on your list! Just don’t come in from Lone Pine. :-)