To make it even more enticing, Glimmerglass State Park is located just a few miles outside of Cooperstown, New York, an idyllic little town that’s home to the fabulous Fenimore Art Museum and the National Baseball Hall of Fame.
The Story Of Glimmerglass
Cooperstown was founded by William Cooper, a land developer, judge, and the father of 19th-century author James Fenimore Cooper. In the 1800s James Fenimore wrote popular historical romances and thrilling adventures set in the American frontier, particularly the wilds of central New York state. He drew inspiration from the people and landscape surrounding him, including beautiful Lake Otsego, which he nicknamed “Glimmerglass.”
Even if you’ve never read Cooper’s books, if you’ve seen the movie “Last of the Mohicans,” you’re familiar with his work. Somehow, despite my love of reading, I’ve never read any of his novels. After visiting Cooperstown I got inspired and picked up one of his books, only to promptly get lost in the weeds of his verbose, antiquated prose. But I do remember enjoying the movie (I think that’s the only time I’ve preferred a film adaptation to a book).
James Fenimore Cooper
Cooperstown is the picture of a quintessential American town. Strolling down Main Street is like walking into a Norman Rockwell painting.
Main Street, Cooperstown
The Fenimore Art Museum
The Fenimore Art Museum stands on the site of James Fenimore Cooper’s former estate, with sweeping views of Glimmerglass. The museum houses one of the finest collections of American folk art we’ve seen anywhere, along with an exquisite collection of American Indian art. We spent most of a day exploring the fabulous museum, including picnicking on the beautiful grounds.
One of my favorite pieces was an elaborately decorated shoeshine stand created by Giovanni Indelicato, an Italian immigrant bootblack in New York in the 1930s. It’s eccentric, colorful, and undoubtedly the fanciest shoeshine stand in the world. How does someone decide to make something like this? And how does someone else decide that it’s art? And why do I like it so much? I have no answers to any of these questions, which is one reason I love wandering in art galleries.
Click on any photo for a larger image
The Farmers’ Museum
Just across the road from the art museum is the Farmers’ Museum, one of the oldest living history museums in the country. Having recently visited Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan (quite possibly the most epic living history museum anywhere), we really didn’t need to go to the Farmers’ Museum. But we walked across the street, and my curiosity got the best of me. Before I knew it, I was speed-touring through the museum grounds 30 minutes before they closed because the docent at the gate said, “Sure, go have a look around!”
It’s small and very well done, with costumed docents who are enthusiastic about their heritage skills. And obviously, in the case of the blacksmith, don’t mind getting covered in soot.
The National Baseball Hall Of Fame
Most people make the pilgrimage to Cooperstown to visit the National Baseball Hall of Fame, the shrine to America’s favorite sport. Eric went on his own and had a great time exploring the vast collection of everything baseball. While there, he paid homage to his favorite team, the Los Angeles Dodgers, and his favorite player, Sandy Koufax, who was one of the greatest pitchers in history and the youngest player ever elected to the hall of fame. Eric used to go to the Dodger’s games with his dad, so his visit to the museum brought back wonderful memories. He also bought a Dodger’s baseball cap, which I have yet to see him wear. (We have an unspoken agreement that we do not comment on each other’s choices in sentimental memorabilia, as long as it doesn’t take up too much space in our rig.)
Other Good Stuff
We rounded out our stay in Cooperstown with a visit to the very cool Ommegang Brewery; an afternoon cocktail at the beautiful Cooperstown Distillery on Main Street; and a delicious afternoon tea and treat at the lovely and unique Origins Cafe, a seasonal venue located in a lush greenhouse. Not all in the same day, of course.
About the Campground
Glimmerglass State Park, located eight miles outside the village of Cooperstown, overlooks Otsego Lake, the “Glimmerglass” of James Fenimore Cooper’s novels. We were there just before the Fourth of July (we really wanted to stay through the holiday, but the campground is booked far in advance for the popular town celebration). We anticipated wild times (there were a LOT of little kids on bikes and every site had campfires going) but it was remarkably peaceful as soon as quiet hours hit. Not sure if that’s always the case.
The campground is small, with spacious sites, electric hookups, water conveniently located throughout, nice hiking trails, and good Verizon. The lake looked beautiful for kayaking but with only three nights there, we ran out of time. (Many thanks to our friends Sherry and David, who wrote about Glimmerglass several years ago and piqued our interest.)
Glimmerglass State Park
Once again, you’ve shown us a spot in our home state that we’ve never been to. In my mind, Glimmerglass is synonymous with opera and baseball, neither of which are of particular interest to us. A sparkling lake, folk art, lemon balm cheesecake and a nice distillery give the place a definite appeal! Next time we’re back home, we’ll certainly put it on our list of things to see!
Sue, I think you and Dave would love the folk art museum as well as just wandering around Cooperstown (with a stop at the distillery downtown, of course). You have such a great ‘neighborhood’ to explore. :-)
I totally get wanting to visit Glimmerglass simply for the name. I can also see why that shoeshine stand captured your fancy. It’s sort of too bad it’s not something that can be or is used anymore. That is curious to think about someone deciding to put such artistic energy into a shoeshine stand, but what a fabulous creation! Those treats also looked like mini works of art. I wish we’d been at the table with you.
Joodie, I love it when people express themselves artistically, no matter what the medium. I think creating is an innate desire, and it fascinates me to see how people manifest their creativity. I wish you guys had been with us at the table, too!
So glad my blog was helpful to you. I really enjoyed the Native American exhibits at the Fenimore but equally as interesting was the Iroquois Indian Museum in nearby Howes Cave.
I’m sorry you didn’t make it there. Pretty sure we spent more time in the area than you did.
At least a week. Thanks for the memories.
Sherry, I wish we could have been at Glimmerglass for more than three nights. There was so much to do! We would have loved to visit the Iroquois Museum, but we didn’t have time. Thanks again for bringing our attention to this lovely state park and town.
The lake looks lovely, and at first, I thought the picture was of the San Juans.
I imagine if all one does in a day is shine shoes with black, then perhaps a little, or a lot of longing for some color inspires a colorful stand. It may also have outshone the competition.
Thank you for including us on your journey.
Sheila, the lake does look a bit like the San Juans! You make a good point about the shoeshine stand creator—his work obviously made him happy, and now it’s providing enjoyment for so many more people.
I’m always happy to know that you’re traveling along with us.
What a cool little town. So much to see and do, especially in Summer. Speaking of which, all of these pictures full of bright green trees and lush grass are making me miss Summer even more. New York really does offer a ton of great places to visit and you seem to have found them all. Speaking of which, after our recent experiences at Shelburne and Greenfield Village, I think I’d be hard pressed to pass up an opportunity to see one of these living history museums. They are all just so fascinating! Plus, you might get to see a blacksmith with amazing hair!!!
Laura, we absolutely loved our exploration of the pastoral part of New York. We were surprised at all of the lush green beauty, the spaciousness, the cool little towns…so much! As far as the living history museum, although we didn’t really do justice to the one in Cooperstown, I’m glad we at least got to do a quick tour of it—long enough to meet the blacksmith. :-)
Cooperstown is high on our list of places to visit when we eventually make our way to New York, so I’ll add Glimmerglass to our notebook. My husband grew up rooting for the Dodgers and Koufax was his idol. I share Rod’s enthusiasm for baseball and would love to plan a trip with a visit to all the ball parks as our goal/theme. And, as always, your food & drink photos are making my mouth water. I believe it was one of your posts that inspired us to visit the Mobile gas station in Lee Vining, as well as the June Lake Brewery (and food truck next door). Both were outstanding and I’m trying to figure out when we can get back there just so we can have some more of those delicious meals! Thank you!
Les, I’m so happy our blog is helpful for you in planning your travels! I appreciate you telling me that. It inspires me to keep sharing. And I’m very happy to hear that the June Lake brewery and food truck are still going strong. And the Mobile station in Lee Vining.
You and Rod are going to have a fabulous time when you make it to Cooperstown—it’s baseball fan heaven! So fun to hear that Koufax and the Dodgers are also Rod’s favorites.
I’m sure you have both read Doris Kearns Goodwin’s *Wait Until Next Year*? Wonderful book for baseball fans!
Thanks so much for the suggestion, Les! Neither of us has read the book. I think Eric is already searching for it, LOL.
It amazes me how you manage to find so much the charm and delight in ordinary places. I do hope when we make our final big cross country trip toward the far northeastern part of the country, I can backtrack and find all the good stuff on your blog. Maybe we can even try out that lake. Hope you are doing well and that your family is managing OK.
Sue, one of the greatest gifts of our travels is finding charm and delight in ordinary places! Much of it has been a surprise, quite honestly.
If you ever want to find anything on our blog, it’s easy to search with either the ‘search’ bar or by going to the drop-down menu (which has all of the states listed). And if I can ever get around to it, I’ll be posting a map of our travels from this year, as well. Thank you for your good wishes for my family.
The clouds in your main street photo are perfect and the shoeshine stand crazy.
Thanks, Deb. We had some pretty perfect weather this summer and fall! I’m always delighted to have big puffy white clouds in photos.
The museum looks fabulous — I really love art museums set in historic homes because it’s a two-for-one experience of architecture and art. I think it works especially well when the artwork is focused on American works.
As for your reaction to Cooper novels, I completely agree. The Pathfinder made me want to drop out of my American literature class (if only such a thing were allowed in 11th grade!) even though I loved the Last of the Mohicans movie. I also recently attempted to read a George Eliot novel and it did not go well at all, even though the BBC production of Middlemarch was wonderful.
Shannon, I’m happy to hear that you found Cooper difficult (impossible) to read, too. That makes me feel like I’m in good company, LOL. I don’t think I’ll attempt George Eliot, either. I guess some novels just don’t age well!
Knowing how much you appreciate good museums, I know you would enjoy the Fenimore, both for the art and the architecture. The folk art collection is wonderful, as is the fabulous American Indian collection. Everything in the museum is beautifully curated.
Hmm, that dirty looking blacksmith is hot!
The first time I heard of Cooperstown and Glimmerglass was from Sherry’s post and it also piqued my interest. So glad you visited the art museum for us, cause although art takes your breath away some simply creates furrow lines in our forehead.
Was the Lemon Balm cheesecake yum?
I know all about buying something that may or may not have a spot in our little homes :)
MonaLiza, I’m glad we visited Glimmerglass and Cooperstown—there were so many interesting things packed into such a small area! We do love visiting art museums, as you know. I’m happy to keep doing it for you and reporting back, LOL.
And yes, the cheesecake was delicious…and that blacksmith was mighty handsome. :-)
I agree the name always catches my attention and I am still anxious to see it myself. Americana museums are my favorite – Sherbourne in Vermont at the top of the list so far – so I know I will love this museum. That shoeshine stand is marvelous. What a treat that it was saved for all to enjoy. Your blacksmith photo is beyond amazing. It should be included in any promotions they do for the farmers’ museum!!
Jodee, I agree that the Shelbourne is the grande dame of Americana collections. But you will love the Fenimore when you make it there. You have to go to see the shoeshine stand!
Thank you for your kind words about the blacksmith photo. :-) He was so intent on his work—I felt as though I had stepped back in time when I saw him.
I’m afraid we missed Cooperstown on our trip east. It was on our schedule, then a woman on RVillage asked me if we were going to the induction. I thought she was talking about the new member induction at the Elks Lodge, and I was like, um, noooo. (You’d want to be a hardcore Elks member to just turn up at one of those meetings.) Turns out we had picked the very same dates as the baseball HoF induction ceremony. I didn’t even know that was a thing!!!! I’m so glad we found out, though, can you imagine if we just rocked up looking for a place to park Scoopy! LOL, I still get a chuckle out of this one! :)
Linda, that is a hilarious story! I’m sorry you missed Cooperstown, because it really is a lovely town. Maybe one of these days you’ll return. But not during the Baseball Hall of Fame induction ceremony, right?
We did Cooperstown on a motorcycle trip. John visited the Baseball Hall of Fame and I spent the day at the Farmers’ Museum. We were both very happy with our visits. We probably would have enjoyed the museum since it is folk art and American Indian Art. You did a super job exploring NY state. It is a diverse state with small town America, then the Big Apple, and Long Island and the beaches!
Pam, we loved our time spent touring New York State. There’s far more to explore than we anticipated! And as you know, we even ended up going to the big city in November, even though we said we weren’t going to do it, LOL. Sounds like you and John had a fun trip to Cooperstown…if you ever go back, I think you would really enjoy the Fenimore Art Museum.