Low-key and relaxing was just what we needed after our marathon five weeks of downsizing in Gainesville. As I’ve said before, simplifying is not a simple process.
Delighted By Pirate’s Cove
Given the absurd amount of time it took to pack up our new Subaru for the first time, it’s a good thing Cedar Key is only one hour from Gainesville. It was weird to zoom right by the quirky little RV parks that have always been our destination, and to head instead for Pirate’s Cove, our Airbnb.
But as soon as we pulled up, I knew we were going to like it. “Welcome to Your Seaside Escape” beckoned the arch festooned with glass floats that leads to the tidal flats. Aaaahhhh….YES.
Click on photos for a larger image
Our cottage was nicely decorated, coastal style, and had a delightful little porch off of the bedroom. It’s a 1950s Florida cottage, with quirks. The floor is not entirely level, which makes you feel drunk when you get up in the middle of the night. But it was clean and comfortable. I was thrilled.
We settled in for five nights, and spent an inordinate amount of time lolling on the back porch, watching the tides come and go and the birds in the tidal flats. It was an excellent way to spend many hours. Magnolia loved it, too.
The Relaxing Imperfection Of Cedar Key
This is Old Florida. It is not perfect. One does not come to Cedar Key for perfect. One comes to Cedar Key to delight in relaxing on the porch, wandering around the quirky little town, perhaps doing a bit of biking and kayaking, and simply enjoying the general vibe of a place that does not take itself seriously at all.
We had fun.
We rented cruisers for a day. You think an island is flat until you ride 10 miles on a cruiser with no gears. New bikes are high on our shopping list.
Finding Friends In Cedar Key
Meeting up with friends made our time in Cedar Key even better. We met up for a fabulous dinner at 29 North with Karen and Krash, whom we first met in Cedar Key in 2018 at the famous Low-Key Tiki Bar. They visited us at our home on the bay in Eastpoint in 2021. It was great to reconnect with them and to catch up on life.
And very serendipitously, we met up with Tessa and Philip, along with their sweet canine companions Sprinkles and Finn. Tessa writes the fun and informative travel blog Charming Adventures of the Millers, which is how we met. When we heard they were coming to Florida, we invited them to stay with us in Eastpoint. And then we moved. Bad hosts!!! But as we were biking in Cedar Key, we found them walking along the waterfront. Not only were they willing to talk to us, but they invited us over to their RV for happy hour. We had a blast.
The food choices in tiny Cedar Key are surprisingly good. (Which is unexpected, given that the island grocery store makes the Piggly Wiggly in Apalachicola look like a gourmet paradise.) We mostly cooked at home, enjoying every meal on the little porch overlooking the tidal flats. But I highly recommend a meal at 29 North.
On our last day in Cedar Key, I could not resist running into the local coffee shop for one of their homemade chocolate-covered frozen Key lime pie slices. It’s a good thing I didn’t do that earlier in our trip, because I would have bought one every day we were there.
We’ve already made reservations at Pirate’s Cove for next year. :-)
Ahhh, just what you needed to regroup.
Cedar Key looks like my kind of place! Love the funky vibe.. reminds me a bit of the Keyes. I am definitely going to check out the boat slip possibility and winter weather.
This really was what we needed to regroup…before landing back in Apalachicola to load up our U-Haul, LOL.
Cedar Key is definitely your kind of place, Brenda. Many people say it’s like the Florida Keys were 50 years ago. The waters around Cedar Key are very shallow, but there must be a place nearby for your boat! I hope you’ll get to visit.
Wonderfully funky place!
Funky is the perfect description, Terri. Cedar Key is one of our perennial favorites!
WOW your writing is so vivid, IT’S ALMOST LIKE WE WERE THERE!!! :) Fave memory of our trip so far … running into you and Eric like that. And now we have our very own bird-expert in our pocket for future identification needs, sweet!!! Carry on, being fabulous like you always are!
Tessa, you are too funny. If I look up the word “irreverent” in the dictionary, will I find your photo there? :)
Hahahaha!!!! Tessa, it was SO COOL finding you guys on the waterfront. And we’re so happy you were willing to hang out with us even though we so rudely sold our home and moved away before you could visit us in Eastpoint. It was destiny for us to meet up, for sure! And now you’ll never get rid of us. :-)
Great to hear that you have a wonderful place to stay and return to. K has a story to tell about the tiki bar…. :)
Hi Laurel, thank you for reminding me of this quirky little Florida town. Looks like we need to load up the bikes and take a road trip. Your reference to the Piggly Wiggly in Apalachicola made me chuckle. I don’t think I want to imagine any market that makes it look gourmet! I’m looking forward to your farewell to Apalachicola post.
Suzanne, Cedar Key is definitely worth a return trip! I trust that your bikes have gears, haha. The island looks flat, but I can assure you it is not. If you go, don’t miss a meal at 29 North. It’s your kind of place.
Okay, now I need to hear that story, Riley! Enjoy your fabulous trip to Japan, hugs to you both!
So glad Cedar Key filled all your needs and that the Airbnb was clean! Can’t wait to read about your next spot! Your post brought back so many good memories about our one and only visit to Florida in our motorhome.
Janna, I was delighted to find that the Airbnb was clean (albeit funky old Florida). Even better was that fabulous little porch overlooking the tidal flats. That soothed my soul, for sure.
A perfect recap of your time of relaxation and recoup from your downsizing, Laurel. Thank you for including us in your Cedar Key schedule. We loved our time catching up with both of you! We look forward to your next venture in NC.
Karen, we were so happy to reconnect with you and Krash in Cedar Key. I can certainly understand why you’ve chosen to spend winter there for so many years. I’ve already booked a week in early March next year, and we’re hoping that you two will be there. Maybe you’ll come see us in North Carolina, too! Safe travels back to Michigan. :-)
I love that 1950s Florida vibe. And you fit right in with your colors, Laurel! :)
Downright relaxing, just looking at Eric’s photos. Thanks for that!
I love the photo of the home (or shop) with all the funky stuff outside. My kind of place. I am happy to see you relaxing. I’m excited to see photos of your new home. Thanks for always sharing your adventures. Christine
Christine, there are lots and lots of homes and little shops with all kinds of collections on display! It’s really fun to walk or bike around and see how creative people are. Thanks for always encouraging us in our adventures!
There’s something appealing about that 1950s vibe, isn’t there? We really loved our time in Cedar Key, Gretchen. You guys would like it there, I’m sure, if you ever come that far south in your cross-country travels. Definitely a relaxing place to be!
I love the image of biking without gears on an island. I think that’s called training effect. Your really earned that chocolate covered frozen key lime pie!
Nancy, that was a harder bike ride than we expected. After the first couple of miles it got a bit easier, but we realized it was because we were riding uphill the entire way, LOL. I definitely earned that chocolate covered frozen Key lime pie! Hope you had a great winter trip to Anza Borrego!
Oh, what a wonderful little tropical escape! And so great that your Air BnB was so pretty (and clean!) this time. Sitting on the deck watching the birds seems like a lovely way to pass the time. Your photos remind me that I need to try to make my food photos a little more professional-looking. It’s hard when *someone* is waiting to gobble it up. The choc-covered Key Lime pie must’ve been delicious, and what’s in a Roseate Spoonbill smoothie? Did you have it just for the name, cuz I would’ve :D
Joodie, it was a perfect tropical escape! I don’t often just sit on the porch for hours, but this was a wonderful place for simply relaxing.
I completely understand about *someone* being impatient to dig in. That’s why the only food photos you’ll ever see on this blog are photos of my food choices, haha! And you know me so well…I absolutely chose the Roseate Spoonbill smoothie because of the name and the bee-you-ti-ful pink color! It had strawberries, coconut milk, pineapple, and coconut as I recall…and I left out the white chocolate because that seemed like too much.
Oh Yes, I do love Cedar Key, first discovered it when I would visit Bel in Ocala and we would drive to Cedar Key for the day, or to Manatee Springs and Cedar Key, depending on weather and timing. Loved the place, and loved seeing it again with Mo on our travels to my favorite part of Florida. I plan to bookmark that little AirBnB because as you can imagine, as I sit here in another snowstorm, I am fantasizing flying to Florida and doing the AirBnB thing. Especially since tomorrow I am flying to Amsterdam with my daughter Deborah to embark on a Rhine River Cruise to Switzerland. And you got it, rain and clouds every single day of our cruise. I do hope we can actually see a castle or two along the river. LOL Only 5 days? off to the next step in your journey, but glad you had this little bit of respite.
Sue, if you return to Cedar Key, I think you and Mo would love Pirate’s Cove! Be sure to get one of the cottages with a deck, and be sure to reserve far in advance because they’re really popular, of course.
I hope you have a fabulous trip to Amsterdam. A river cruise sounds wonderful, and I know you always have a great time with Deborah. I hope your weather cooperates so that you can see those castles!
Sounds like this transitional phase is just wonderful. Taking life as it comes in Cedar Key was just the ticket after all the stress of decision making and then implementing those decisions! Beautiful, relaxing post. See you soon (unless you move again…..)
Sue, we’re making the best of this transitional phase. :-) Our few days Cedar Key were supremely relaxing. It really was a perfect “time out” before heading to Apalachicola to pack up the U-Haul and head north. No way are we going to miss seeing you in North Carolina! We can’t wait.
I like that you invite people over and then just move. And not only do you move, you sell your place, get rid of everything you own, sell your identifiable RV and car, and start living in Air BnB’s…after changing your schedule several times.
I mean, if I were them, I would definitely think you were trying to avoid them.
Fortunately, they (and most everyone else) are less suspicious than me.
LOL. Glad it worked out and glad you guys had a great time in Cedar Key! :)
Haha, that was really rude of us to move, wasn’t it? And to get rid of everything. It’s like we were going into the witness protection program, LOL. I’m glad Tessa and Philip forgave us. (By the way, I can’t remember if you’ve met up with them, but you would love them!) We had such a great time in Cedar Key, Laura. It was exactly what we needed.
What a wonderful little spot with that deck right by the water. You sure can pick them. Hope when I’m there in cedar key next winter I can figure out where you got all that fabulous looking food.
Sherry, I put links to the restaurant and coffee shop in the post. You really can’t miss them because all of Cedar Key is only a couple of blocks square, LOL. I hope you love your time there next winter!
I love Cedar Key! Thanks for sharing your latest adventures there. Your cottage looks like the perfect place to stay! We’ve also been to Cedar Key several times. We didn’t eat at 29 North. We’ll have to try it next time. Our favorite is Tony’s for their clam chowder. We always take some home with us.
Beth, even though we’ve been to Cedar Key at least a half-dozen times, we always enjoy returning. If you guys go back, I think you would like Pirate’s Cove. It’s not fancy, but it’s a sweet place, especially if you get one of the cottages with a deck overlooking the tidal flats. We ate at Tony’s a few years ago and enjoyed the chowder. There are so many surprisingly good options in Cedar Key!
It is so great to see you having so much fun!
Thank you, Kathryn. We’re doing our best to balance the craziness of our downsizing project with some fun and relaxation. I hope all is well with you!
What a great life!
I remind myself often that we do have a great life, Deb. Even when it’s challenging it’s great. :-)
Laurel, I fell in love with your cottage the minute I saw your header photo. There is something irresistible about glass floats – they’re such beautiful, functional pieces of art. I have a string of them on our laundry room counter, and they make me smile whenever they catch my eye. The cottage itself is a gem – that porch!!! Good for you for booking it again for next year. It does the soul so much good to spend time in those special places that make the heart happy.
Mary, I’ve always loved glass floats, too! I’m sure I’m going to have some at our new tiny house. That little cottage really was a gem, even with the uneven floor and other quirks. The porch was absolutely fabulous and it definitely made my heart happy to spend time out there! It will be fun to have that to look forward to next winter…and the key lime pie. :-))
We really like the vibe at Cedar Key — Key West meets the Big Bend — but all the oyster flats would be a no-go for our inflatable kayak. Aren’t you glad you are just renting the appropriate boats these days? Don’t get me started on cruiser bikes. I see them all over SGI, and they are mostly piloted by people who (i) haven’t ridden a bike in years, (ii) are exhausted after pedaling into the wind, and (iii) are very, very cranky. I don’t see the point. Which might explain why we have yet to buy bikes after 3 years of living here.
Anyway, the food pics are enticing and between you and Joodie I am becoming alarmingly hungry every time I read blog posts. Did you try any of the local clams? That’s one of our favorites.
Shannon, that was my last time riding a cruiser, haha. I can’t believe how hard it is to ride a bike without gears! We thought Cedar Key was relatively flat, but not so much. Anyway, we’re in the market for new bikes, ASAP.
We’ve had local clams on our previous visits to Cedar Key, but didn’t buy any this time. We got some great local fish at a wonderful new little seafood shop, though. Eric had clams in his seafood pasta dish at 29 North…but of course, there was no way to get a photo of that, LOL.
That is the cutest cottage ever that you had while in Cedar Key! Sounds like the perfect visit. This one of the spots we never managed to stop at when we were visiting Florida. Everyone who stopped there always has wonderful things to say. Friends, good food, sunshine, water, and wildlife make for a perfect time.
Pam, that little cottage was adorable! Quirky, but adorable…just like Cedar Key. :-) Just as you said, Cedar Key has all of the things we enjoy, and we always have a wonderfully relaxing and fun time there. Maybe you could meet us there sometime (if we can ever entice you back to Florida, haha!).
Given how “snug” the RV parks are in Cedar Key, that little cottage looks perfect! And what a great location for relaxing on the porch. That tricolor heron is stunning!! How fun to find your friends out walking – just like where I saw you the first time in the Eastern Sierras :-))) A perfect relaxing stop, I’m not surprised you’re already planning to be there next year.
Jodee, we’re discovering that although we miss a lot about our trailer, we’re also enjoying the spaciousness of Airbnbs. We were absolutely delighted with that porch at the little cottage in Cedar Key.
I had forgotten that we first met you and Bill randomly on the trail at Devils Postpile! Another huge benefit of blogging is that we know friends before we know them. :-)
Laurel,
Big fun! The weather was lousy when we spent a few days in Cedar Key. Now, you’ve made me want a return trip. Your Air B&B is cute and cozy and on the water, no less. Enjoy! The Blackened shrimp and grits look divine…I want that! BTW, I understand what you mean about driving by the RV parks. That has to arouse some sentimental feelings. Have a great weekend. Joe
Joe, if you head back to Florida, you definitely need to give Cedar Key another try. You would love that shrimp and grits! Obviously, everywhere is better when the weather is good, but we’ve always had good luck in the winter. We have such great memories of our visits there in our trailer…we were feeling kind of nostalgic, but it helped that we had such a cute place to stay.
I wonder why we never made it to Cedar Key during our Florida winters when I heard good things about that little quirky place.
I love your little cottage with a water view! It seems you are getting the hang of it, the Airbnb lifestyle, sans house cleaning of course. Your slow trek towards your tiny house in NC is a relaxation and adventure and exploration. For once you arrived to your home sweet home, your days will be filled with decorating, getting the house livable and the joy of buying furnishings.
For now Im glad you are having a good time.
ML, you and Steve would have enjoyed Cedar Key! There are always places we miss, it seems. But you two haven’t missed much in all of your travels. :-)
How did you know that we’re immersed in furniture shopping?? We’ve had so many decisions to make, from appliances to countertops to furnishing our tiny home. We’re doing our best to enjoy the Airbnb journey along the way, but we’re already spending a lot of time and energy researching and shopping. We’re several months away from being able to move in, but we need to have everything in place before that. You know just how much work it takes to create a home!