Southern Vancouver Island boasts of a Mediterranean climate, which seems like wishful thinking. And then we saw the vineyards, lavender fields, and fig trees—not too far from old-growth forests and mossy trails. I’d call it fusion Mediterranean-Canadian. Whatever it is, it’s gorgeous.
We set up camp in two different areas for our explorations: Qualicum Beach and Crofton, only 58 miles apart. In between is a cornucopia of fascinating things to explore: colorful towns, farms, wineries, hiking, beaches, farm-to-table restaurants and creative food purveyors. And goats on a market roof, a tourist trap that I absolutely had to see. We could have easily spent a month in this area and not run out of things to do.
But First: The Redwoods Of Cathedral Grove
On our way from our previous stop in Port Alberni to Qualicum Beach, we made a quick stop in Cathedral Grove. This protected grove is estimated to be around 800 years old. If you’ve seen the redwoods in California, you’ve seen bigger trees. But any old-growth forest saved is a good thing. There’s precious little old-growth remaining on Vancouver Island and it was a hard-won fight to save these trees.
Feeling kind of small among the giant Douglas Firs in Cathedral Grove
This was once the heartland of the Douglas Fir Empire, providing economic sustenance for communities in the area. As the logging industry took a nose dive, local towns were in danger of withering on the vine. But from all appearances, each has discovered a way to not only hold on, but to thrive.
The Qualicum Beach Waterfront
Near Qualicum Beach, the miles of scenic waterfront and beaches are a huge attraction. Apparently the sand warms the incoming tide, making the water swimmable in summer. The beach at Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park is more than a mile long, and at low tide, a half-mile wide. It’s a meditative walk of beach and ocean and sky…and more beach and ocean and sky…with a few sand dollars thrown in for excitement.
The pathway to Rathtrevor Beach
It’s a long way to the water when it’s low tide at Rathtrevor Beach
Hiking Beautiful Little Qualicum Falls
Just a few miles inland is lovely Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park. Hiking trails wind through moss-laden forests, along a crystal clear aquamarine river to a series of falls cascading through a rocky gorge.
Little Qualicum Falls
The Little Qualicum River, beautifully clear and aquamarine
The Murals Of Chemainus
In a previous post, I wrote about how the town of Duncan commissioned a spectacular array of totems from First Nation’s artists to encourage tourism. Nearby Chemainus, once merely a sawmill town on a downhill slide, has done something similar by transforming itself into a festival of street art. More than forty enormous murals adorn buildings in the downtown area, each depicting an aspect of the town’s history. We’ve seen quite a few towns with murals in our travels, but these really are exceptional.
I’m betting a chainsaw was used in the carving of the town sign
What it looked like in the early logging days
“Memories of a Chinese Boy” mural
A tribute to Canadian artist Emily Carr
Native Heritage mural honoring the indigenous peoples of the area
Hong Hing Store: originally a laundry/grocery/second hand goods store that expanded into a bootlegging and gambling house. It was a very popular place, as you can imagine.
He thought about joining up
Exploring The Pastoral Cowichan Valley
In the 1850s, farmers discovered the pastoral Cowichan Valley. Honestly, I don’t know why everyone in Canada isn’t trying to squeeze into this little patch of sun and warmth. There’s a flourishing local foods movement, with organic farms, wineries, farm-to-table restaurants, and even an organic tea farm.
Westholme Tea Farm in North Cowichan was high on my list of places to visit. Although we thought it would be a quick stop, two hours later, Eric had to drag me away. The lush gardens, the lovely tea shop, and the welcoming staff charmed us. We tasted various teas, and then chose pots of tea and homemade almond orange cake to enjoy in the garden.
They have an appealing philosophy: “We believe in creating imperfect moments of joy, beauty and splendour.“
In the gardens at Westholme Tea Farm; the fig tree gives credence to the Mediterranean claim.
Inside the cozy tea room at Westholme Tea Farm
Everything is simply and beautifully displayed
Tea time in Westholme garden; pots of green/rose petal/vanilla and Earl Grey/lavender
Out of at least a dozen appealing wineries in the Cowichan Valley, we settled on Unsworth Vineyards. The wines were very good, and lunch was superb: Clams in white wine with shaved fennel, ahi with tomato peach chutney, and a salad with pears and candied walnuts. While we ate, we watched their chickens patrolling for bugs in the vineyard. It’s a beautiful place—even the chickens have a charming tiny house.
Unsworth Restaurant, in a restored early 1900s farmhouse
Even the chickens have an artistic, colorful home
Wine tasting at Unsworth Vineyards
Clams in white wine with chickpeas and shaved fennel
Ahi with tomato peach chutney
Walking The Kinsol Trestle
We walked off our lunch and wine tasting at the nearby Kinsol Trestle, one of the largest freestanding wooden railway trestles in the world. Designed by engineers and built by local farmers and loggers, the trestle was in use from 1920 until the late 1970s, when it was abandoned and fell into ruin. In 2011, the restored trestle was reopened for hikers and bikers. It’s hard to imagine the herculean effort it took to build this structure, not once, but twice.
On the Kinsol Trestle
It’s quite a feat of engineering at 144 feet tall and noteworthy for its seven-degree curve
The Beautiful Town Of Cowichan Bay
One of the most beautiful towns we visited (in a whole array of beautiful towns) was Cowichan Bay. It couldn’t be more picturesque. And it couldn’t have been a more picture-perfect day. We stopped for afternoon coffee at True Grain Bread, a unique bakery that uses only organic BC grown heritage and ancient grains, with everything baked in stone hearth ovens.
Picturesque Cowichan Bay on a perfect day
Colorful and elaborate floating homes on Cowichan Bay
I liked the sign
True Grain Bread, a unique organic bakery in Cowichan Bay
I know, I know. It’s a cookie. But it’s an exceptional chocolate chip cookie made with heritage BC grains and baked in a stone hearth oven.
And…The Goats Of Coombs Old Country Market
Last but not least, we went to visit the goats at Coombs Old Country Market. It’s kind of a tourist trap, but it’s a very nice tourist trap, and there’s an interesting back story. The market was built by a Norwegian family in the early 1970’s with a traditional sod roof. As the story goes, a few glasses of wine inspired the idea to put a few goats on the roof to mow the grass. The goats became celebrities, business picked up, and 30 years later, the goats are a permanent seasonal fixture.
Goats on the roof at Coombs Country Market
Eating the roof is encouraged (the grass, not the actual roof)
Inside Coombs Country Market—it’s all about the goats. But they also have a nice array of gourmet foods and wines.
Where We Stayed
Cedar Grove RV Park, Qualicum Beach
Cedar Grove RV Park in Qualicum Beach was just what we needed after a week with no electricity or water in Ucluelet and Port Alberni. It’s a rather modest park with hard-packed dirt sites, but it has full hook-ups, free internet, and a nice small laundry. We were very happy with our site backing up to the Little Qualicum River. This place is booked solid in the summer, but in the fall, we had no problem getting a site.
Osborne Bay RV Resort, Crofton, BC
We loved our site (and view!) at Osborne Bay Resort in Crofton. Full hookups, useless internet, and there’s a lovely walking trail along the bay. This was also our launch site for a several day trip to nearby Salt Spring Island (the ferry landing is right next door).
This area continues to intrigue me with it’s beautiful shoreline, quaint towns and great food. You have the knack of locating the best places to eat and drink everywhere you go! I love tea and the rose/vanilla one sounded just perfect.
The murals were the most beautiful and detailed ones I’ve seen, I especially liked the Raven standing beside the Ravens!
Sue, this will definitely not be our last visit to Vancouver Island! For one thing, there are so many more local food purveyors to experience. You know how I love finding good food and beverages. :-)) I liked Mr. Raven next to the Raven mural, too.
Those goats were amazing! I’d go just to see them.
Karen, the goats were so cute and seemed quite happy mowing the roof. I think they put the little town of Coombs on the map.
Beautiful Laurel… we are usually exploring this part of the world on our boat so it is fun to see that it has RVing possibilities too!
Brenda, the adventures on Vancouver Island seem almost limitless. It’s a great place to explore by RV, and I can imagine how much fun it must be to explore by boat!
So beautiful! The murals were just beautiful! I’m so glad I signed up for your emails. I get to go on an adventure, even if it’s just through my eyes.
Merry Christmas!!!!!
Christine Duval
Tucson, AZ
Thanks so much, Christine. We’re happy to have you along for the journey! I enjoy reading blogs for exactly the same reason, to enjoy adventures that I might not otherwise experience. Merry Christmas to you, too!!
Your trip to Vancouver Island has just been fantastic. A place you could stay for a month looks very appealing to me except for the health care problem. I sure wish all the little logging towns would have come up with other ways of maintaining themselves BEFORE they cut down all the gorgeous old growth. Seems like humans too often only do what’s right when they have no other choice. So amazing, swimable beach in Canada along with beautiful water falls and Mediterranean weather. Beautiful murals. The one of the woman in the bark robe is particularly poignant. Very handsome Mountie there. Your tea time table was lovely. Your pictures from there felt very calming. Is the vineyard netting to foil the birds? Looks like the vineyard has a gourmet chef. Incredible trestle and they built it twice. WOW! Goats on your roof? All the time? Rain, snow? Too funny. Guess you could say I really liked this post. I’m so envious of what a wonderful time you’ve had in a place I doubt I’ll ever get to go. So glad you went so I could too.
Sherry, I hope someday you’ll make it to Vancouver Island. I know you would love it. There are so many interesting places to explore — I’m glad we can show you something you haven’t yet experienced. I thought you would like the mural of the Salish woman!
I believe this may be one of my favorite posts about Vancouver Island. Don’t get me wrong Laurel, I always love your writing and your photos, but this place really drew me in, having so many of my interests rolled into one blog post – street art, colorful, interesting architecture, farm-to-table eateries, and even an organic tea farm. I have enjoyed a few tea tastings in my time and have loved each experience. I could just imagine sitting in the garden, enjoying the views, sipping a delicate cup of tea. I would have had to visit the goats on the roof also and that amazing Kinsol Trestle. Thanks for sharing this adventure!
I’m so glad you enjoyed this post, LuAnn. This is definitely the area to experience the farm-to-table scene on Vancouver Island — plus so much more. It appealed to so many of my interests, too. The tea farm was extraordinary!
Such an idyllic looking area that I now want to visit thanks to your posts! Happy holidays to you both.
Happy holidays to you two, as well! I think you would enjoy Vancouver Island. It’s well worth the effort to get there. Idyllic is the perfect description!
Another spectacular area on this lovely island! I love that the climate is so mild, looks like everything grows there.
I’ve actually seen goats on a roof in Norway!
Lisa, we were surprised at how mild the climate was on the island! Apparently it really does have a Mediterranean climate (at least the Cowichan Valley). How fun that you’ve seen goats on a roof in Norway! I guess it’s more than just a tourist thing. :)
I’m starting to suspect that the spotty internet on Vancouver Island is a ploy to keep masses from relocating there! What a perfect place to spend a lot of time. It feels a bit like Lopez so perhaps it’s an island “thing”. I suppose winters aren’t so welcoming….. Those murals are stunning, definitely in a class by themselves! I like the feather sign too :-)
Haha, you might be right about the internet thing, Jodee! It does feel a lot like Lopez, but of course, Lopez is tiny compared to VI. From what I understand, the winters are pretty mild — but that still means chilly!
If a goat can live on a roof, a goat can definitely live in an RV. Trust me on this. It’ll be amazing! I may have actually drooled a bit on my keyboard when I saw the clams and fennel dish. I don’t even regret it though…. You continue to find the best places to eat, drink, and meander. And I continue to take notes.
Laura, you know how much I love goats! I’ve been contenting myself with just visiting them here and there in our travels….but I think you’re right, we should get one as a traveling companion. Want to share custody?
Oh, dear, where to begin! What an outstanding post! I agree with LuAnn in that I enjoy every post with your gorgeous photos and beautifully flowing narrative, but this one is special. I so enjoyed taking the tour of these quaint towns with you and Eric. The murals are so pretty, love the railroad trestle, the Douglas fir’s are magnificent, and the tea house and farm to table meal at the winery looks so yummy:) Yes, we most certainly need to spend some time enjoying this island. I smiled all the way through:)
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post, Pam. All of Vancouver Island is wonderful and filled with colorful and interesting surprises. Knowing you and your adventurous spirit, I know you’ll make a trip there sooner or later!
what time of year was this? It did look very Mediterranean, with a twist. Especially compared to Calgary or Manitoba. Sure did make me want to get back up that way. I have no idea where our travels will take us in the next couple of years, but we have a big todo list waiting!
Sue, we were on Vancouver Island for five weeks, through mid-October. The weather was mostly beautiful and sunny (although we did wear fleece the entire time!). We have a big list, too — including a return trip to Vancouver Island.
I’ve seen goats on top of the roof in Door County!
Well, yet another gem in your travels. I want to go there! It is so dang beautiful, you know those Canadians really know how to make their town interesting and enticing to visit. I wonder when we can visit Vancouver, when we just said we dont want anymore border crossing!
MonaLiza, it’s worth the border crossing to go to Vancouver Island! Plus, I think it’s easier going through the ferry crossings than the other border crossings. Door County is on our list — maybe early this summer!
I have to comment first on those gorgeous plates of food because you guys always post the yummiest dishes ~ that always have us both “ooh-ing” and “aah-ing”. Those clams with chickpeas and fennel, what an unusual combo! Looks delicious.
Love love the nature shots, especially Cathedral Grove. Forests and huge trees are totally invigorating to me! I’m yearning for some forest time.
Terrific post!
Peta
Peta, the excellent local food scene on Vancouver Island is definitely one of the attractions for us. The chefs are quite creative with their offerings. And of course, the forests and beaches and ocean are a huge draw for us, as well. :-)