We settled on a handful of things that we knew for sure we wanted to do, left space for new discoveries, and set out to immerse ourselves in this enchanting region for three weeks in June.
How The Finger Lakes Came Into Being
When I was studying a map of the Finger Lakes, I was curious about how this series of long, narrow, almost parallel lakes came into being. An oft-repeated local legend attributed to the Iroquois has the Great Spirit laying his hands on the land in blessing, leaving behind fingerprints that became lakes. As much as I like the legend, it apparently has nothing to do with the Native Peoples of the area, but instead is a fanciful tale originating in the 1920s.
Nature’s handiwork is just as interesting, though. Millions of years ago, the lakes began as small northward-flowing streams. During the last ice age, glaciers cut and deepened the streams into narrow valleys. When the glaciers receded, their slow bulldozing action left behind soil and rock dams. As the ice melted, the valleys filled with water, and voila—the beautiful lakes came into being.
Map of the Finger Lakes from Maps by Scott
I added purple stars to the map above to show where we stayed in the Finger Lakes: Lake Conesus (where we visited with our friends Sue, Dave & Lewis); Watkins Glen (for waterfalls and the Corning Museum of Glass); Ithaca (for the cool town and the Cornell Bird Observatory); and Seneca Falls (for the Women’s Rights Museum and wineries).
Beautiful Watkins Glen
We’ve seen a lot of waterfalls recently—the sweet trails at Hocking Hills State Park in Ohio, magnificent Niagara Falls, and the lovely series of falls in Letchworth State Park at the edge of the Finger Lake region.
We had heard tales of the beauty of Watkins Glen State Park, most recently from our friends Laura and Kevin, who took photos that put this place on our must-do list. We settled into our spacious campsite and spent several days hiking the beautiful trails.
Originally a private resort, Watkins Glen was purchased by New York State in 1906. The Civilian Conservation Corps worked its magic in the mid-1930s, creating winding pathways, picturesque bridges, and staircases of native stone.
Looking down at the Gorge Trail
Beautiful bridge in Watkins Glen
Pooling waterfalls along the trail
The Gorge Trail
Everyone’s favorite trail is the Gorge Trail, an artistically designed trail that offers close encounters with 19 waterfalls. We descended steep stone stairs into the gorge, followed meandering paths along streams, crossed bridges, and passed behind mists and cascades of waterfalls.
I think there are approximately five million steep stairs on the Gorge Trail
Click on any photo for a larger image
A Living Fossil In The Park
An unusual creature in the park is the gray petaltail dragonfly, a ‘living fossil’ that hasn’t changed much since dinosaurs roamed the earth. Signs along the Gorge Trail educate visitors about the friendly nature of the dragonflies, who have a penchant for landing on people. Apparently, one of the greatest threats to the giant 5-inch dragonflies is people swatting at them. I don’t know about you, but my natural inclination is to swat at a big bug when it lands on me. I was glad I had read the signs and knew what to expect.
Gray Petaltail Dragonfly
A Rainstorm Brings High Waters
Our second day in the park brought a heavy rainstorm, and the Gorge Trail was closed because of dangerous high waters. We had fun hiking the following day when the creek raged through the canyon and the Cavern Cascade waterfall transformed into a thundering torrent.
The Corning Museum Of Glass
While staying at Watkins Glen, we made a day trip 20 miles southwest to visit the Corning Museum of Glass. Established in 1951, the museum was created to celebrate the company’s 100th anniversary. We spent an entire day immersed in the history, artistry, and making of glass.
We were fascinated by the myriad creations born of the alchemical process of turning sand, lime, and ash into glass. From the Corelle unbreakable dishes that we use daily in our RV to luminous, fanciful, and colorful artistic creations, glass is such an amazingly versatile medium.
Glass blowing demonstration
The exhibit of floating glass sculptures by Italian artist Lino Tagliapietra—who is now in his 80s and still actively creating glass masterpieces—was mesmerizing. I think it was our favorite of all.
So beautiful and calming
In the Contemporary Gallery
An incredibly ornate glass lynx
Once again, we’ve missed some of the beauty in our own “backyard”! When we were kids we raced around Watkins Glen not really appreciating its grandeur and all I remember about Corning Glass was that I was dizzy walking on the glass floors surrounded by glass walls somewhere! Time for a re-visit with adult eyes and sensibilities!
Sue, you and Dave will love revisiting the Corning Museum of Glass with your adult sensibilities. :-) Growing up in the Finger Lakes region must have been idyllic, with places like Watkins Glen to explore!
We missed the Museum of glass since our time was limited when we visited Watkins Glen. It is good to have more time to not rush.
I agree, Deb—the more time to explore, the better. We could have happily spent two months in the Finger Lakes!
Watkins Glen was one place we wanted to go to last year when we were in the area. After seeing this, we will make it a point to get back there, Laurel! Absolutely beautiful.
Watkins Glen is well worth visiting, Jim. I think you and Diana will enjoy the beauty of the park, especially if you go before tourist season kicks into high gear. We were happy we were there in early June. I’ve heard it gets crazy in summer!
So glad you guys enjoyed your visit to Watkins Glen! We were just blown away by what an incredible job the CCC did while building all those trails, walls, and bridges. Everything fits perfectly and complements the natural beauty without overwhelming it. Such a cool place! And I don’t think it would have mattered if I’d seen an information board or not. Bug lands on me, it’s getting swatted….while I jump around and screech like a 3 year old. Sorry, bug. Make better choices.
We did not get to visit the Corning Museum which I am still disappointed about. We have seen some glassblowing demonstrations though – of both artistic and production glass, and I agree, what an awesome medium! Love that floating colored glass but I’m even more blown away by the Lynx. Wow!
Haha, I have the same reaction when a bug lands on me—I jump around and do my little “get off me” dance while swatting it away. I don’t mind butterflies or ladybugs or dainty little dragonflies, but anything else…nope. I’m glad I read the signs and didn’t smack the poor giant gray petaltail!
Laura, it was your beautiful photos that really made us want to visit Watkins Glen. I regret that I didn’t take the time to figure out how to do justice to the waterfalls (as you did). I suppose one of these days I need to read my camera manual, LOL. (And practice.) And yes, go back to the Corning Museum if you get the chance. That lynx was fabulous, along with everything else!
Beautiful images! We loved that part of NY. Happy trails!
Thanks! We loved the Finger Lakes, too. Definitely worth spending more time there! Hope your travels are going well. :-)
Wow, the Gorge Trail looks great and your photos make it all seem so LEAFY. I am curious whether the dragonflies are also threatened by insect control. I know in Florida that mosquito spraying has had significant effects up the food chain on species like dragonflies, though I suppose most people are just happy to be rid of the relentless little bloodsuckers.
The Corning Museum is obviously another must-do. You know we love industrial history, and seeing the past (and present) of such a long-standing American icon must be particularly special.
I can’t wait to hear about Seneca Falls — that’s a place that would also be a must-see for me!
Shannon, the Gorge Trail was beautiful and fun to hike. It was very lush and green in early June, and the perfect temperature—it was a great time to be there. You will love the Corning Museum! There’s far more than I talked about in the post, including lots of cool industrial stuff that you’ll find fascinating. We spent an entire day there and still didn’t see everything.
As far as the dragonflies, from what I understand, the gray petaltail is threatened not only by people smacking them but by loss of habitat and contaminants in groundwater (including pesticides), since it lays its eggs in seepage areas.
Watkins Glen looks amazing! Looks like a good workout too, with all those stairs.
Lisa, there are a crazy amount of stairs on the Gorge Trail! It definitely felt like a good workout by the time we went up and down the various stairs a bunch of times. We have to do something to try to keep up our hiking stamina until we get back out west. :-)
You really did a super job touring NY. We lived on the PA/NY border for three years and tent camped in many towns around us one being Watkins Glen. We also took several trips to Corning. I love watching the glass blowers. I’m looking forward to your Ithaca post. I lived there when I was a baby. My father went to Ithaca College after the military. He was then head of the alumni association for years later in life.
Pam, there is SO much to do in New York State (as you know). It was really hard for us to narrow down our choices! I’m glad you think we did well. :-)
We had such a great time, and would happily return for more exploring. It helped that we had good weather and that we mostly were there before the summer crowds hit. Your family history in the area is so interesting!
We heard too late about how beautiful Watkins Glen that we can’t turn around nor revisiting the state that I am happy you were there. Looks like you had a good workout from that 5 million steps! The place looks beautiful and the CCC boys once again did an amazing job.
I would love to visit the Corning Museum. The Floating glass must really have been mesmerizing in person since that became your favorite glass art.
Thank you for touring the real NY for me since I know we won’t be there anytime soon :)
MonaLiza, are you sure you guys don’t want to do just one more trip to the east coast so that you can explore the Finger Lakes? :-) It really is such a gorgeous area, and there are so many fun things to do that you and Steve would love. Plus…you could visit Sue and Dave and Lewis!
We had no idea how beautiful the Finger Lakes would be. We’re really happy we made the journey (and we would love to return!).
As I read your recent posts and look at our eastern loop next year, I lament that we will not be seeing New York or any of New England at all. I’ve had Watkins Glen pinned for years, but I will have to live vicariously through you. Good thing you do the hikes we would and get the beautiful pics! Thank you for not squishing the dragonfly. Not only was it good for the bug, but think of the gooey mess that would’ve made on your arm!
Joodie, I would never intentionally squash a dragonfly, but I’m really glad they posted those educational signs so that I was prepared when that big sucker landed on me! It is kind of startling, and I might have inadvertently hurt it by trying to brush it off if I hadn’t been warned that they like to land on people.
We’ve been happily surprised at the beautiful hiking and nature we’ve found in our eastern adventures. When you get to Watkins Glen, you’ll love it—as long as you don’t go during prime tourist season. (I know you dislike hiking in herds just as much as we do.)
Last I counted there, are only 4,890,000 stairs in Watkins Glen. Just kidding I’ve never been, but am inspired to go. It looks magical.
There is such a different quality to the rock formations on the older terrain of the East Coast vs. the West Coast. Both are equally beautiful.
I’m not the biggest glass aficionado in the world, but the hanging glass sculpture is really moving and touching. It has this suggestion of embryonic floating, as well as a moving galaxy.
Thank you.
Sheila, I think you’re right—there may not have quite been 5 million stairs, LOL! Watkins Glen is truly beautiful, and as you said, magical. You would appreciate the way the paths and bridges are integrated so naturally into the landscape.
The glass creations at the museum were absolutely stunning. It amazes me what people are able to create from a medium that seems so unforgiving. It would have been fun to visit the museum with you. :-)
I do love the combination of activities you guys do and post about.. nature, hiking, art. I too really appreciate those beautiful graceful glass shapes ~ so simple and elegant. The process is so much fun to watch although I can’t imagine personally creating something using so much heat and fire! Leave it to the experts. There is a new show on glass blowing competition on Netflix that we have been enjoying.
I was left wondering what great food you had eaten and come to the conclusion it must have been good but maybe not photo material…?
That sure seems like an exceptionally large/wide dragonfly!
Lovely post…
Peta
Thank you, Peta. I’m so glad you enjoy traveling along with us and appreciate the diversity of our adventures. As much as we love hiking and nature, we also enjoy interesting cities, and we always search out art and music wherever we go. And good food, as you know! We had a tasty lunch on Market Street in Corning at the Hand & Foot Bistro, but no blog-worthy photos. :-)
And I have the same thought as you—I’m fascinated by glass blowing, but it looks dangerous! I hold my breath when they’re working on a piece, waiting for it to explode.
I’m still unhappy we missed Watkins Glen and Corning Glass when we were in the area! So much beauty and history in the Finger Lakes, we have to get back for sure. Your photos are stunning. Love the giant dragonfly – such great energy!
I almost missed this wonderful post!!
Jodee, you guys would love both Watkins Glen and Corning Glass! So many good reasons to return to the Finger Lakes. We loved the whole area and would happily return. I’m glad you enjoyed the post!