In mid-October, we spent a week immersed in the fiery reds and golds of New Hampshire’s autumn glory. It’s always a good thing when places are just as good as you remember…or even better.
The Joy Of Traveling Short Distances: New England
One of the things I love about New England (and the East Coast in general) is how small the states are. You can visit a LOT of states while driving short distances, unlike Texas, which takes FOREVER to traverse.
I mean, seriously. Look at this. Why do all of the states get so much bigger as you move west? And how did Texas end up so big?
Map of U.S.
For eight years, we made the trek from Oregon to Florida. Because we were always heading southeast in the winter, we have spent months of our lives traveling across Texas. It’s a good thing we’ve found a lot to like about Texas.
(And I know there are reasons why the western states are bigger than the eastern states including geographic boundaries, politics, population density, etc. But I’m not going down that particular Internet rabbit hole right now. I have a blog to catch up on, and I must. stay. focused. If you want to get lost in the weeds, do a search on how each state got its shape. It’s really interesting!)
Anyway, back to New Hampshire.
Lake Winnipesaukee
Our first stop in New Hampshire was Lake Winnipesaukee, just 70 miles from our last stop in Portland, Maine. Located in the Lakes Region at the foot of the White Mountains, Lake Winnipesaukee stretches 21 miles long and 9 miles wide. The lake is dotted with more than 300 tiny islands, many of them inhabited.
We set up camp in a wooded, park-like site (with full hookups) for three nights at Wolfeboro Campground.
A beautiful, spacious site at Wolfeboro Campground
Wolfeboro, on the shores of Lake Winnipesaukee, is considered to be the oldest resort town in the U.S. In mid-October, at the tail end of the season, it was a peaceful place to be.
The Mount Washington cruising Lake Winnipesaukee
On a chilly and foggy morning, we embarked on a 2 1/2 hour scenic boat ride on the M/S Mount Washington. We cruised along the lakeshore, enjoying glimpses of tiny rustic cabins, extravagant summer homes, a loon sanctuary, and the harbor.
Click on any photo for a larger image
A boat garage
The Cotton Valley Rail Trail
In Wolfeboro, we picked up the trailhead for the Cotton Valley Rail Trail. It’s a beautiful trail, but potentially treacherous because the hard packed limestone trail is sandwiched between the two original steel rails of the railway. This is the first time we’ve biked a Rails-to-Trails path that kept the old rails. It’s too narrow when meeting up with bikes or pedestrians, which means running off of the trail over the rails or dismounting every time you encounter another biker. We biked several miles of it and then turned around, returning unscathed to walk part of it another day.
On the Cotton Valley Rail Trail
Castle In The Clouds
Our friends and fellow travelers Janie and Russ told us about Castle in the Clouds in nearby Moultonborough, and we were intrigued. The Craftsman style mountaintop estate was built in 1914 by millionaire Thomas Gustav Plant, who made his fortune in shoe manufacturing in Boston. Plant was self-made, and from all accounts, a kind and generous employer.
Castle in the Clouds
Plant lost his fortune during the Great Depression, but his creditors allowed him to live in his home until his death in 1941. The estate is now managed as a preservation trust. On the inside, the house is simple and lovely, with incredible views of Lake Winnipesaukee.
Gorgeous views from every window
Although there is a fee for visiting the castle, the surrounding land is managed by a conservation trust, which makes 30 miles of hiking trails available for free to the public. We hiked the Mt. Roberts Trail (a 5-mile round-trip trail with 1300 feet of elevation gain) to the top of Mt. Roberts. Unfortunately, the light wasn’t good for photography on the top of the mountain, but the hike and the view of Lake Winnipesaukee were still great.
Sunset Over Lake Winnipesaukee
For our last evening in Wolfeboro, we headed down to the waterfront for sunset. It was a beautiful send-off.
So beautiful
Moving On To The White Mountains
Following our three enjoyable days and peaceful nights at Lake Winnipesaukee, we headed 75 miles up into the White Mountains to our next New Hampshire adventure. Twin Mountain Motor Court and RV Park was a lucky find, with full hookups, spacious sites, and wonderful owners. I do not understand why we were almost alone there. Mid-October is prime fall foliage season and it isn’t yet too cold. I don’t think 29 degrees in the morning is unreasonable, especially when it warms up into the high 50s during the day. But most campgrounds close the second week in October.
Twin Mountain is a good location for exploring the most scenic attractions of the White Mountains.
Franconia Notch State Park
Just 10 miles from Twin Mountain, Franconia Notch State Park is in the heart of the White Mountains. The Flume Gorge is touted as the premier attraction in the park, and costs $18 per person to enter. It’s a two-mile hike over boardwalks through a deep gorge. Honestly, I suppose we’re glad we did it, but we wouldn’t do it again. In our explorations, we found far more beautiful places for fall color and much better hikes.
Covered bridge
Sugarloaf Mountain Hike
One of the most fun things we did in the White Mountains was meeting up with our friend Beth, whom we first met on Lopez Island. She now divides her time between Albuquerque and New Hampshire, and we were delighted to spend time with her in the mountains she calls home for part of the year.
We hiked a beautiful trail on Sugarloaf Mountain that culminated in wonderful views. It was a great hike, and even better company.
Enjoying a morning of hiking with our friend Beth
Views from Middle Sugarloaf
A Scenic New Hampshire Loop Drive
For a full immersion in the best of New Hampshire’s fall foliage, we made a loop drive that included part of the Kancamagus Scenic Byway and Crawford Notch State Park. It was spectacular. (We shortened what would have been a 100-mile loop to 60 miles by taking Bear Notch Road cut-off. That was an especially scenic stretch!)
The scenic Kancamagus Highway
The colors are just outstanding
The beautiful Saco River
Granite mountains and vibrant colors
We stopped in pretty North Conway for a delicious lunch and craft beer at Barley and Salt. I am so glad to see that all of these wonderful little restaurants and breweries that we visited in 2019 have survived the pandemic. Looking back at our photos from our time in New Hampshire, I see that our new heavy flannel shirts from our stop at the L.L. Bean mothership in Maine were our new uniforms, LOL.
Thanks for a wonderful autumn display, New Hampshire!
How wonderful to be in such uncrowded campgrounds! Your fall color photos are lovely! New Hampshire is a state I’ve never visited, even for work.
Janna, mid-October is the best time for fall color in New Hampshire, so it’s surprising that the campgrounds close right after Labor Day. We were happy to find a couple of good ones still open!
We enjoy so much reading your blog! Thanks for taking the time to write it!
Thank you for reading and commenting, Foster. I’m glad to know you’re enjoying our blog!
Glad you are catching up on your blog. Beautiful New England! Ed loves your choice of flannel….he has always been an LLBean fan and has, I think, every color produced. He refuses to stow them away, as we get very few days of flannel weather, here in Hilton Head. :)
Diana
I’m glad Ed approves of my flannel choice, Diana. He has very good taste, as you know. :-) That shirt is so cozy! And I even found myself wearing it many times during our Florida winter. We miss you guys and hope we can get together soon! Thanks for commenting, it’s fun to know you’re reading.
Ooooh, now I want your gray/black checkered flannel!
It is very nice that these places all survived the pandemic. I, too, often check up on various businesses we have visited to make sure they’re still around.
You timed your trip perfectly – the colors are astounding and while the trails don’t look particularly crowded, it looks like there were still people at the brewery you visited. That’s exactly how we like to experience places like this.
Love those lake photos – they truly capture Fall in New England, and the sunset on the water rivals anything out west. Spectacular!
Looking forward to hearing about your time in Vermont….Please tell me about allllllll the cheese and maple syrup!
Laura, we really do feel like we timed our east coast travels pretty perfectly (with a good amount of luck involved!). Fall is such a gorgeous time in New England, as you know. We were actually surprised at the lack of tourists! And overall, the weather was great—some gray and chill, but nothing to stop us from getting out and doing what we wanted to do.
I know you have an aversion to plaid after your visit to Portland, Oregon, LOL!! But checks are not the same thing, right? That is the coziest shirt I’ve ever owned.
Thank you for the photo of you and Beth. We miss you both. The fall colors are spectacular!
Sheila, we were wishing that you and Bruce were with us on that beautiful hike with Beth. The fall colors really are fantastic in New Hampshire, and that hike was even better with good company. We miss you two!
I have a friend who lives in Bethlehem, NH and her photos are always so beautiful. I think you’ve convinced me that I need to spend an entire year exploring the northeast. You sure found some great places to explore. BTW, Rod & I now live in flannel shirts. I think I have well over a dozen. The only time I ever wear my shorts is when we leave home. :) Current temp is 49 and raining. We’ll get our summer in September.
Lesley, I know it’s a very long way from Oregon to the northeast, but I think you and Rod would love it! And you already have your flannel shirts for New England in the fall (which is really when you want to be there) so you’re all set! :-) I know exactly what you mean about those chilly, foggy summers on the Oregon Coast. It’s beautiful and magical, but September is the time for sunshine!
As always you did a blazing amount while camped for 3 nights at the lake. I take it you would recommend the campground? For a month?? I’m looking for two or three places to stay in NH for a summer. I loved doing that in Vermont and Maine.
From what I’ve read you were lucky to find anything open after Columbus day. I wonder if you were also really lucky in the weather? Are the colors really gone by Columbus day? It doesn’t look like it from your gorgeous pictures. From your description it sounds like you spent a week in NH? And now a week in Vermont. LOL, I spent 3 months in Vermont last summer! Great post! Thanks!
Sherry, we do seem to stay busy, don’t we? :-)) I would love to have your experience of a leisurely three months in Vermont or Maine. Now that we’re on the east coast, that’s one of our plans for escaping the summer heat in Florida.
I lived in Boston for 10 years, and the whole of October was generally glorious. The leaves don’t usually peak in New England until mid-to-late October, so I don’t know why campgrounds tend to close earlier. I think you would really enjoy either of those campgrounds for an extended stay.
You probably don’t remember us but Bonnie and I met you in the Patagonia area of Arizona in March of 2011. We were all trying to spot the Elegant Trogan at the State Park.
We have been silently enjoying your Blog ever since.
As for us we have motorhomed in all of the lower 48, Mexico, Canada and about about 20 other countries.
We live in Grand Haven, Michigan which is a Great little town on the shores of Lake Michigan. The town is famous for our Musical Fountain, boardwalk along the Grand River leading to the beach, pier and lighthouses.
We would very much like to meet up with you when you are passing through our area. Bird watching is pretty much our passion but love nature and travel.
Hi Dave & Bonnie, OF COURSE we remember you! We had so much fun meeting you in Patagonia and searching for the trogon!
Wow, it sounds like you two have had many amazing adventures since we last saw you. We would love to meet up with you this summer. We have a lot of catching up to do! I just looked at a map, and I think the closest we will be to you is Grand Rapids at the end of September. Before that, we will be at Sleeping Bear Dunes/Traverse City for 10 days. So we should be able to figure this out! Thanks for still reading and for commenting. It’s great to know you’re there!
We will be looking forward to meeting up in September.
Perhaps we can go bird watching at the nearby Muskegon Waste Water Treatment Facility, one of the best birding locations in Western Michigan.
Our town is one of many interesting beach towns along the shores of Lake Michigan.
Sounds great! I emailed you. :-)
What a great life you lead and have. Lucky you.
Have a nice day.
K~
Kathryn, I’m always happy to hear from you. I’m grateful every day for the opportunities we have. :-) I hope you’re doing well and enjoying taking your beautiful photographs.
Always entertaining, informative, and just plain fun! Thanks for the effort it certainly must take to produce this blog.
Aww, thanks, Charlie! This is such a nice comment. Sometimes I think I’m crazy for spending so much time on this blog, but when I know people are enjoying it, that makes it worth all the effort.
Wow, that fall foliage is stunning! I don’t think I’d be able to drive those roads since I’d be constantly looking right and left and ohhhing and awwwing. I hear you about the large states, we can’t get through Texas fast enough (except for stops in Austin) and our trips from southern California to the Oregon border take forever. One of these days I’ll go down the rabbit hole of why the states are shaped the way they are, that sounds interesting.
Janis, New Hampshire does put on a great fall color show! I think it’s the most vibrant of any place we’ve been in the fall.
We’ve made that drive across Texas at least a dozen times, and much to our surprise, we’ve found so much beauty and so many interesting places. We ended up scheduling a month for our trips across Texas, and there’s still more we would like to explore (or return to!). Traveling by RV definitely facilities that kind of exploration. Still, it’s a long way across the state, LOL.
Laurel,
And I always thought we had beautiful fall color in the Great Smoky Mountains, but you have shown us what fall color looks like! Lovely pictures and the sunset is just stunning! BTW, I agree with you about Texas–a lot to like, but there is a lot of Texas to cross! Have a great week! Joe
Joe, we loved seeing fall color in the Smokies, but I’d have to agree that the fall color in New Hampshire takes it up another notch in vibrancy. I hope you and Helen have New Hampshire in your travel plans for next year. And yes, even though there is a lot of Texas, there is a whole lot to enjoy (thankfully! LOL). And Texas has some of the best state parks in the country!
Oh goodness, NH is almost a caricature of itself some autumns! That was definitely one of them. Breathtaking color. And who ever heard of a rail trail with the rails still in?! Makes me want to go check it out, actually. Thanks for reminding me that the furthest-away parts of this continent can still call to me, even when I’ve vowed to stay home for a good long while now…
Gretchen, I have memories of beautiful fall color in NH from the years that I lived in Boston, but I’m sure you’re right that it varies from year to year. So apparently we hit a good year! And I’m grateful for that, because it was just spectacular. I’m sure it feels good to be at home on beautiful, peaceful Lopez after your epic cross-country road trip. Enjoy being at home, and have fun planning your next adventure!
We missed each other by a month, Laurel! In mid-September of 2019, Alan and I were camping a half hour north of Wolfeboro with a small group of other owners of Outdoors RV travel trailers. As a group, we took the same delightful cruise on the lake; on another day we rode the Cotton Valley Rail Trail with one other couple. Our friend Diane actually took a spill as a result of the dangerous design of the trail. (A stop for ice cream at Bailey’s Bubble after the ride eased the pain considerably). Despite our deep and abiding love for rail trails (especially those with a water view), Alan and I agreed – never again on that one. New Hampshire is such a magnificent state – you did a stellar job of capturing its essence!
Hi Mary, how fun that you were in exactly the same place in New Hampshire just a month before we were there! Lake Winnipesaukee is lovely, and we enjoyed our boat trip even though it was a foggy, chilly morning.
You know exactly what I’m talking about with that crazy rail trail. It was beautiful, but treacherous. I’m so sorry to hear that your friend took a spill on the trail, but glad she wasn’t badly hurt. (I’m assuming if ice cream fixed her up, she was okay.) We really enjoyed our week in New Hampshire and would happily return.
Wow, those fall colors are spectacular in your photos, and I’m sure they were even more vivid in person. Add to that the reasonable weather and the empty campgrounds and you definitely timed this visit perfectly. I liked that you experienced lots of different terrain (lakes, mountains, bike trails) in a pretty small state. There’s something to be said for seeing a lot without having to drive for days on end to reach the destination!
Shannon, after so many years of cross-country travels, it was really fun to be in the east where we could visit so many states while driving short distances. And each state definitely has a different personality! I didn’t realize until you pointed it out that we had such a variety of experiences in New Hampshire. We really enjoyed both the lake and the mountains. And as you said, our timing (weather wise and lack of crowds) couldn’t have been better.
Yet another beautiful blog! I especially liked this one since you covered lots of our home territory. Larry was born and raised in Wolfeboro and we both worked there for the last 15 years of our careers.
I’m glad you enjoyed the post, Susie…what a beautiful place Wolfeboro is! I’ll bet you could have told us all kinds of great things to do there. Next time I’ll be sure to ask you. :-)
Oh those glorious colors!! Leaves and sunsets – such a great time to be in New Hampshire. Love the Castle and that it’s still surviving. I’m definitely ready for some green and water in our travels. I’m enjoying your catching up and looking forward to your 2022 adventure.
It really was a glorious time to be in New England, Jodee. We were lucky, and caught the colors just right! Thanks for following along with our catch-up posts…we’ll soon be on the road again for all new adventures!
Ah Laurel, as always such a wonderful post. Of course, I had to go look up each of the New Hampshire parks where you stayed. We will be at our friend’s place in Vermont for a few days prior and then traveling through New Hampshire on my birthday, September 15. Before the color, and hopefully after the crowds. No planning to stay long, just one night in a park in Littleton. I am thinking of maybe changing that reservation to the Twin Mountain Motor Court, but of course that would entail getting off our route a bit. We will be on our way to Portland, Maine, Duck Pond. So dawdling in NH isn’t really on the list this time around. Curious if that extra bit of mileage would be worth it. Country Bumpkins sounds just like its name, but right on the route we are traveling toward Portland. I do love your traveling style. Not as leisurely as Sherry, but a lot more so that we usually manage. Sometimes we just like to get where we are going. This time we have to manage our time to get back across the country before we no longer have a house sitter! You have all the time in the world on the east coast now, so I will continue to read your stories with a bit of envy…but then you can be envious when you read about me kayaking Recreation Creek, right? Hugs to you
Sue, as much as we enjoyed our stay at Twin Mountain, I don’t think it would be worth it to change your route if you only have one night, especially since it won’t be in fall color season. I’m delighted that you got a reservation at Wild Duck, though…I hope you love it (and Portland, and the coast of Maine) as much as we did!
I’m happy that we have time to do more exploring on the east coast now, but as you said, I’m also missing the Pacific Northwest, including kayaking beautiful Recreation Creek. Sigh. Why does this country have to be quite so big?? Hugs to you, too!
Nothing like New England in the fall. While Colorado is beautiful in the fall with all its brilliant yellow aspen and an occasional orange group, nothing beats the red soft maples. They really light up the hills. Lovely photos!!! Of course all that water helps with the colors. That rail trail is definitely not a good idea. I wonder how many people get hurt trying to pass while staying on the bike. Yikes! Glad you were fine. We biked and hike Franconia Notch, as well. It was a visit early in our fulltime days. We enjoyed the walkway through the notch. This was a new experience for us. Biking it was NOT fun. Way too hilly.
Pam, I agree with you about the fall color around the country. We’ve enjoyed the fall colors in Colorado, Nevada (Great Basin NP), and North Carolina, but New England really does have the most incredible display. I think you’re right that it has to do with the red of the maples. The landscape looked like it was glowing!
I cannot imagine biking the trails in Franconia Notch. Way too hard for me, LOL.
Ok, *this* time there were no bird pictures, or did I miss one again? No matter, the fiery leaves more than satisfy the eye. I hope that someday we’ll get to experience it in person, your photos whet our appetite to travel there in the future. Lucky for you, New England and the Great Lakes region are in reach for summer reprieve!
Haha, no, you did not miss any bird photos this time, Joodie! I’m glad you were satisfied with the spectacular autumn colors of New Hampshire. We certainly were. I hope you two will make the trek someday to New England…it’s worth it! And we can meet you there. :-))
Gorgeous photos, what a fun adventure!!
Hi Tim, how fun to hear from you! We loved our time in New England, and we were especially happy to catch the fall colors.